McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks Mark! That picture really helps. It is definitely a problem with the gasket that was in it. Thats great! It sat for about 4 days before trying to start. The wick seemed to be well saturated but I will have another look. I tried to bottle feed it to eliminate that as a possible problem and it still would not run.
With any luck I’ll be all good to go now.

Is it common for the wick to go bad? It looks good....not hard.
 
Well, I started stripping my 1-51 parts saw and bagging up the parts and hardware when I met with a pleasant surprise. The cylinder has the 3rd ports drilled out already! It is also of the removable head style, so now I've hit a quandary. Do I clean up the transfer and put this in my 1-43 build (and have my two 1-4* saws both set up with removable heads) or do I use the solid-head block? If I use this cylinder I'll clean the transfer, clean up the ports, and install my n.o.s. piston that fits the rod from this saw. Also, why are the one crank's counterweights a dull black while the other's are machined steel? Is one better than the other? Finally, is there an advantage to the "grooved" piston as opposed to the normal piston? Lots of questions, I know, but any help is appreciated.
IMG_6455.jpegIMG_6456.jpegIMG_6458.jpegIMG_6459.jpegIMG_6460.jpegIMG_6461.jpeg
 
North East Tennessee MAC Report

Beautiful afternoon in North East Tennessee yesterday. I took off work an 1 1/2 hours early to cut another MAC worthy tree on the site I have been working after my real job.

Red oak - little over 3'.
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800 took it down with no problem though I left it at the stump when I took my exit.
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No saw log; this one is going all to firewood.
IMG_6260.JPG

I cut again today but no MAC action. Saved a nice saw log, but more misadventure that has me pondering. If you are interested I posted over in the Forestry and Logging forum.

Be Safe,

Ron
 
I celebrated too early with the discovery of what appeared to be an improper gasket in the carburetor...

I assembled the carburetor exactly as illustrated in the HL IPL. Pressure tested it with good results. It still will not pump fuel even from a bottle. I’m pretty stumped on this one. It seems like it only pumping air out but not in?
The impulse hole shoots fuel out when the carburetor is off and a squirt is put in the hole. These saws have reeds correct? Possibly it’s an intake issue?
 
Mark- I ran a pipe cleaner through the pipe from carb side to tank and there was no obstruction. I did not want to wait for the wick to saturate so my testing was done by connecting a fuel line from the carburetor to a bottle. I noticed that pressure was going in the opposite direction and was actually pulsing into the bottle....,

possibly I should just put fuel in the tank to see if it will pull from there. Not sure what would be different though?

The saw will fire and run when charged with fuel but will not pull fuel. Very confused on this one. The fact it’s firing and running the charge makes me think the intake is good but dunno?

It’s a sun of a fun to get it to fire though. About 10 pulls before it will sputter. Maybe to much fuel in the charge...

Feels like the timing is off. Flywheel key is good and points were cleaned and gap is at .018. Possibly the condenser is weak?
Any thoughts on where to go from there?
 
Actually that is my Junk Yard Dog SP125. While it is low on compression it still runs and cuts nicely. I gave all three a good work out today...I got a good workout as well. One of the ladies who works at our local lumberyard/hardware store asked if I could cut down a couple of dead and dying trees and I was happy to comply.

Mark
 
Well, I started stripping my 1-51 parts saw and bagging up the parts and hardware when I met with a pleasant surprise. The cylinder has the 3rd ports drilled out already! It is also of the removable head style, so now I've hit a quandary. Do I clean up the transfer and put this in my 1-43 build (and have my two 1-4* saws both set up with removable heads) or do I use the solid-head block? If I use this cylinder I'll clean the transfer, clean up the ports, and install my n.o.s. piston that fits the rod from this saw.
It has the all transfer ports drilled, but not the third port.

Why not finish the 1-43 and see how it goes, once you get more into it you can use the 1-51 to make a MC5 look alike kart saw. The 1-51 having a removable head is easier to bump compression, add boost ports, etc. . If you aren't doing any of that, you might as well stick with the fixed head block that you have started on.
 

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