McCulloch Chain Saws

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Ok, so I have 2 problems. First, the aftermarket fuel line I installed (Stens) had a pin hole in it. I probably caused it forcing a spring inside to keep the flimsy line from kinking. I reinstalled the oe line with some teflon tape for now. Anyone come up with a viable option to fix this yet? The aftermarket lines suck and those no leak line kits are quite pricey.
That did not solve my problem, still running very erratic so I swapped the carb from my good running 10-10 and it runs perfect.

I am going to get back in the carb but I'm wondering what y'all think I should be looking for? It's like it is just randomly running out of fuel, that is why I asked about the metering lever but I set it level with the metering chamber floor and I guess that's where it should be.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so I have 2 problems. First, the aftermarket fuel line I installed (Stens) had a pin hole in it. I probably caused it forcing a spring inside to keep the flimsy line from kinking. I reinstalled the oe line with some teflon tape for now. Anyone come up with a viable option to fix this yet? The aftermarket lines suck and those no leak line kits are quite pricey.
That did not solve my problem, still running very erratic so I swapped the carb from my good running 10-10 and it runs perfect.

I am going to get back in the carb but I'm wondering what y'all think I should be looking for? It's like it is just randomly running out of fuel, that is why I asked about the metering lever but I set it level with the metering chamber floor and I guess that's where it should be.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

This is good news have you got a log lying around to let it eat?
 
Went back out to the shop after the 5-10 had achance to cool off and it fired right back up no problem. Which welch plug is the check valve under? Of course I lost the smaller one that came in my kit.

Messing with other saws, I made an interesting discovery. On the PM700 that I got from Poge I had noticed the muffler cover looked a bit strange so I decided to investigate. It is the reed type muffler and apparently the reed broke at some point. So, someone thought it would be a good idea to unbolt what was left of the reed, slide it down to cover the hole and weld it on three sides!!!!! I wish I had taken pictures!!! I dont know how the saw ran at all, kind of explains why it seemed a bit down on power for the short test cut I did with it when I first got it. For now I just ground the reed off with my angle grinder and put it back together. I will probably make another custom cover for it.

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Weekend Commentary - From Personal Experience

No truer statement has been made here than this:

Good times ahead then :)
I like that too the rat rod. Need to build a muffler cover like Kevin's and I like how its bits of a few saws. I love these 10s for that so many parts fit or can fiddle to fit. You can always build some kind of running saw from a box of a few.

Or this:

Thats kinda of my fear of needing a oiler button, I know a guy with a lawn and garden scrap yard a few towns away and I'll go and buy a parts saw off him and the damn thing will run!,because it's a McCulloch!

For the unwary, buying a Mac parts saw is like hopping on a runaway train.

Be careful out there.

Ron

This commentary is brought to you by Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses. The views expressed are those of the author, and though true, they are not the official position of BS Falling.
 
Weekend Commentary - From Personal Experience

No truer statement has been made here than this:



Or this:



For the unwary, buying a Mac parts saw is like hopping on a runaway train.

Be careful out there.

Ron

This commentary is brought to you by Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses. The views expressed are those of the author, and though true, they are not the official position of BS Falling.

You said it once too Ron. "That's not a parts saw thats a saw waiting for parts"
 
I am almost done cleaning up the 33 Series saws in preparation for moving them over to the museum. The latest subject is another 39 that, if I remember correctly, came from Bob Johnson a few years ago. I need to try an find an original fuel cap as the custom unit on the saw does stand out a bit...the problem is the 39 is an early model saw and the diameter of the threaded portion is smaller than most of the series.

As received

DSC06124.JPG

DSC06128.JPG

Now

20200301_134953.jpg

20200301_135046.jpg

The bar polished up nicely as well, can you tell I was wearing a red coat?

20200301_135040.jpg

Mark
 
Ok, so I have 2 problems. First, the aftermarket fuel line I installed (Stens) had a pin hole in it. I probably caused it forcing a spring inside to keep the flimsy line from kinking. I reinstalled the oe line with some teflon tape for now. Anyone come up with a viable option to fix this yet? The aftermarket lines suck and those no leak line kits are quite pricey.
That did not solve my problem, still running very erratic so I swapped the carb from my good running 10-10 and it runs perfect.

I am going to get back in the carb but I'm wondering what y'all think I should be looking for? It's like it is just randomly running out of fuel, that is why I asked about the metering lever but I set it level with the metering chamber floor and I guess that's where it should be.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Bump, anyone have ideas on this carby?

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Could be a bad check valve.
Ed
That's what I'm thinking, just seems weird, the rest of the carb was really clean and probably could have gone without a kit.

How about the fuel line? Anyone got ideas there?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Went back out to the shop after the 5-10 had achance to cool off and it fired right back up no problem. Which welch plug is the check valve under? Of course I lost the smaller one that came in my kit.

Messing with other saws, I made an interesting discovery. On the PM700 that I got from Poge I had noticed the muffler cover looked a bit strange so I decided to investigate. It is the reed type muffler and apparently the reed broke at some point. So, someone thought it would be a good idea to unbolt what was left of the reed, slide it down to cover the hole and weld it on three sides!!!!! I wish I had taken pictures!!! I dont know how the saw ran at all, kind of explains why it seemed a bit down on power for the short test cut I did with it when I first got it. For now I just ground the reed off with my angle grinder and put it back together. I will probably make another custom cover for it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
The bigger one , I usually just run my 700s without the reed.
I did a write up on changing the check valve a few pages back , it can be tricky, baking the carb a 250° degrees for about 30minutes helps the brass insert pop out.
 
That's what I'm thinking, just seems weird, the rest of the carb was really clean and probably could have gone without a kit.

How about the fuel line? Anyone got ideas there?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Ther are 2 types of check valves , 1 is like a soft diaphragm material that turns to goo and the other 1 is a harder fiber material that is tan and I've only seen it in the non H adjusted carbs, but could be in others.
It doesn't matter how much you clean that carburetor you won't be able to tell whats under the plug, I've cleaned them so well the valve material was totally gone, its the tiny black disc that comes in the rebuild kit. The brass insert is its own complete kit.
 
I reinstalled the oe line with some teflon tape for now. Anyone come up with a viable option to fix this yet? The aftermarket lines suck and those no leak line kits are quite pricey.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Agreed on the aftermarket lines, I've had a couple turn to hard plastic under fuel exposure. If I recall, Oregon makes one that's decent, but I've never tried it personally.
It seems there are several other solutions posted, a popular one being teflon tape. I went with thick fuel line with tygon run through it on two 10-10, both holding up well:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-unofficial-mac-10-10-thread.201506/page-65
You wouldn't necessarily have to change the barb, but it's a heck of a lot easier than fighting with the factory "fat" one.

I started researching various bulkhead barbs at one point and have a few in mind I'd like to try, but have yet to pull the trigger on.
 
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