Members that turn cylinders?????

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Went to an indoor range in Denver once and noticed a huge hunk of metal just inside the door. I asked what it was and the owner disgustedly said that his lead recycler was over a week late and that if I wanted it, I could haul it away. It was the compacted collection of the bullet deflector for I don't know how long. I had to run home get a hand truck and enlist a neighbor to help lever the thing into my car. Spent many hours chipping away at that blob and melting it in an iron pot on a Coleman stove. Poured it into a couple of hundred Lyman ingots. It was a "you suck!" moment.
 
That I will agree to. I'm not saying rifle cannot be reloaded cheaper than buying it, especially when it comes to plinking ammo. However when it comes to making quality hunting ammo I find the reason for reloading is to get the most out of the ammo that it can offer for your rifle and you spend a lot of time and money working that load up so that cuts into any savings over buying commercial ammo but you have the advantage of ammo that your rifle will work the best with by reloading.

Plus, unless you got a fantastic deal on the equipment or was given it by someone you still have to factor in the cost of all of that which adds up fast. Press/scales/powder measure/Powder/primers/case trimmer/debur tool/dies/furnace/molds/tumbler/media/bullet sizing dies/bullet lube/brass etc, etc. I'm fortunate in the fact I can go to the dessert where everyone just leaves their brass so that saves me on that cost.

If he feels he can save over commercial ammo that is fine, I just did not appreciate being called ignorant because I factor in other costs which add to the price of the ammo and don't see it being cheaper in the end, only better quality ammo and this is felt by just about anyone that I know or know of on any of the reloading forums.


Many years ago, I got a pre-64 M70 06. It did not like factory ammo. 1970s

I got all the things to reload. Quality, ohas scale, RCBS dies, some Lee.

It/gunt wanted a Nosler partion 180 gr,. IMR 4530, 54gr , a 55gr load waa max, CCI 200 primer, RP casses full sized, tumbeled and primer poctket reamed/turned.
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It cost me <$1 a laod <1" groups. Much more quality than I could buy

Yes I had to buy tools. Cheaper in the long run.

I have a .222 rem that does < 1/2 "groups, , cost is <0.50 cents/Rd Much more quality than I can buy. Shoot a woodchuck in either eye at 200 yds.

So the cost of equipment has long overrun cost of ammo.

Plus I don't have an idiot to go purchase ammo from. I buy primers, powder, in bulk.
 
The problem with doing cylinder work without the saw attached is initial and final measurements.

A guy tells me his squish is now .045 and he measures it with .080 solder. Asks me to take .025 off base. “Ok, no sweat”, should be .020 at the end right?

I send it back and the squish is .008.

If you think this is uncommon, you would be wrong. Hitting squish on target is very difficult. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to sand/recut a band or redo a base cut because it just wasn’t right. And that’s with perfect conditions. Then you install the jug on a saw that’s different from your builder case and suddenly it’s off again.

This is why just “turning a base” will get people into trouble ^^^. It’s not worth the $25 someone wants to pay you.
 
I can agree on slight variances but I hit my mark every time.

Solder size when measuring squish is very important. Using too thick of solder for measuring a tight squish will net a false reading.
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Goal was .020

The are at .017/.020/.021

Close enough...

That’s OK, Al. So you make a better chef than a machinist; you can’t be perfect at everything. We can’t all be doctors, after all. ;-)
 
I worked it out with him a few days ago.....
Yes, I will be sending him the saw to port. HOWEVER this won't be my last build and I will have the next one turned like I initially was planning to do on this one.

Here's my point I say I need .012 taken off and that's what he does, if it misses the mark then to bad for me I MISSED THE MARK.
 
I mean cover your ass by setting some gauge blocks and use a depth micrometer before turning and take a pic, turn off what is wanted off and reset blocks and gauge then take final pic showing you took off what they asked. If it misses then you can show you took what was asked. If they want to cry on a forum show the pics and the letter saying how much and then you proved they made the mistake and aren't man enough to accept THEY screwed up.
 
I think the error is based solely on squish readings from 2 different people in 2 different areas. Sure, anyone can remove .012" from the squish. But from where? The outer edge of the band? Inner? Middle?
 
I'm talking the base. Either way if I tell someone wrong then it's on me.
 
I understand what you are saying, if the base/band wasn't trued off the bore then you would have different squish around the band. But wouldn't it be MY responsible to test around the band and find the tightest spot and base off of that? Plus allow for gasket squish if I used a base gasket. Here's where I'm saying it's my risk to take and MY responsibility to hit or accept if it doesn't hit.
 
I have a poor mans DRO setup on my lathe. I couldn’t do anything accurately before that.

I agree with what ol huskystihl said. And the rest of it...

I use to have a machine shop do work for me and about 80% the cylinders that came back were correct.
 
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