Members that turn cylinders?????

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OK, in an effort to save money like people do when they build saws or reload ammo I built myself a timing wheel so when the time comes I can at least see what the timing is doing. It's pretty easy to find a printable image of one and I found one I liked. I cropped the size down to 4.72" which is the size of a CD then used a glue stick on the back side and pasted it to the CD and covered it with packing tape to give it a smooth surface that would be easy to clean.

The hardest part was finding a copy of "Little Big Town" that my wife loves so much to use as the base for the printout, I mean it's Little big town why not.

View attachment 756809

Maybe I'm ignorant again.

Explain a degree wheel needed for reloading, ML or cartridge?

I've done traditional MLs years .40-.72, .222 rem- .300 win mag cartridge.

Degree wheel? If I've missed that good to know more and why.
 
Long Answer:

Previous post was talking about timing of engine which requires a degree wheel. The part about building saws or reloading was in reference to saving money. If you have reloaded then you know there is no savings when doing it or at least when you get crazy about it and want to find whats the best powder/bullet/primer/C.O.A.L. how far off the lands etc, etc. for each firearm you know it goes on and on when it comes to reloading.

Short Answer:

It was a joke.
 
Long Answer:

Previous post was talking about timing of engine which requires a degree wheel. The part about building saws or reloading was in reference to saving money. If you have reloaded then you know there is no savings when doing it or at least when you get crazy about it and want to find whats the best powder/bullet/primer/C.O.A.L. how far off the lands etc, etc. for each firearm you know it goes on and on when it comes to reloading.

Short Answer:

It was a joke.


I used to wrench the old "Zuke" and "Kawalski" 3-cyl bikes. They ran points, 3 points ,one for each cyl. To time/set them up, you needed a dail indicator to find the piston to TDC, spec was a PITA <0.01mm, then you set each point, for each cylinder. Took a good time to do that.

Show me a degree wheel used in reloading firearms........... Joke? O.K.

I've set COAL right to lands. A 30-06 win pre-64. Then used 54gr 4350 55gr was a max, a CCI 200 primer, Nosler 180 gr, COL was what fit action. < 1" groups.

Have a good day
 
OK, in an effort to save money like people do when they build saws or reload ammo I built myself a timing wheel
The hardest part was finding a copy of "Little Big Town" that my wife loves so much to use as the base for the printout, I mean it's Little big town why not :innocent:

View attachment 756809

Be careful with that wheel, the 0-180 between tdc and bdc is fine but the outer scale with 360 degrees on either side will get you some funky readings.

I don't have numbers offhand but I do recall 372's cylinders being very consistent stock, someone here must have a set of typical oem numbers they can post up...

And IIRC you can pretty much do a conservative cylinder drop on these to set squish without worrying much about the timing.

Then there's also the 268 popup piston mod if you don't want to mess with the cylinder base or ports...
 
Long Answer:

Previous post was talking about timing of engine which requires a degree wheel. The part about building saws or reloading was in reference to saving money. If you have reloaded then you know there is no savings when doing it or at least when you get crazy about it and want to find whats the best powder/bullet/primer/C.O.A.L. how far off the lands etc, etc. for each firearm you know it goes on and on when it comes to reloading.

Short Answer:

It was a joke.


Long wong answer,

Much cheaper to reload almost all common calibers.

Once you have ONE reloading station, the rest get MUCH cheaper.

I can reload very quality 30-06 Nosler partiom for < $1. Cheap bullets 1/2 that
 
Long wong answer,

Much cheaper to reload almost all common calibers.

Once you have ONE reloading station, the rest get MUCH cheaper.

I can reload very quality 30-06 Nosler partiom for < $1. Cheap bullets 1/2 that
OK, if you say.
 
Be careful with that wheel, the 0-180 between tdc and bdc is fine but the outer scale with 360 degrees on either side will get you some funky readings.

I don't have numbers offhand but I do recall 372's cylinders being very consistent stock, someone here must have a set of typical oem numbers they can post up...

And IIRC you can pretty much do a conservative cylinder drop on these to set squish without worrying much about the timing.

Then there's also the 268 popup piston mod if you don't want to mess with the cylinder base or ports...
Thanks for the tip.
 
Which saw?

Most oem cylinders have a squish that’s either close to desirable or too tight without a BG.

If it’s too tight, you can use an old piston with adhesive backed sandpaper to sand the squish band a bit, or you can make a BG out of some type of material to get you near your target.

Nearly none is gonna want to do the work of putting it on the lathe and taking responsibility if the final measures are off. It’s just not worth the headache. Then add in shipping, etc...

As @wcorey said above, the minor drop in the cylinder won’t change port geometry enough to matter.
 
Maybe I'm ignorant again.

Explain a degree wheel needed for reloading, ML or cartridge?

I've done traditional MLs years .40-.72, .222 rem- .300 win mag cartridge.

Degree wheel? If I've missed that good to know more and why.
You dummy .556 needs a degree wheel .223 does not!! Do you not remember????
 
Especially with handgun rounds if you cast bullets and scrounge lead.

That I will agree to. I'm not saying rifle cannot be reloaded cheaper than buying it, especially when it comes to plinking ammo. However when it comes to making quality hunting ammo I find the reason for reloading is to get the most out of the ammo that it can offer for your rifle and you spend a lot of time and money working that load up so that cuts into any savings over buying commercial ammo but you have the advantage of ammo that your rifle will work the best with by reloading.

Plus, unless you got a fantastic deal on the equipment or was given it by someone you still have to factor in the cost of all of that which adds up fast. Press/scales/powder measure/Powder/primers/case trimmer/debur tool/dies/furnace/molds/tumbler/media/bullet sizing dies/bullet lube/brass etc, etc. I'm fortunate in the fact I can go to the dessert where everyone just leaves their brass so that saves me on that cost.

If he feels he can save over commercial ammo that is fine, I just did not appreciate being called ignorant because I factor in other costs which add to the price of the ammo and don't see it being cheaper in the end, only better quality ammo and this is felt by just about anyone that I know or know of on any of the reloading forums.
 
Hey, hobbies are hobbies. Materially they cost more than you get, but satisfaction can't be measured in dollars. No intention of stepping into a side argument here, just adding a point that may have been overlooked. Ever thought about the price of duck meat vs. money spent to acquire it? Staggering. Even worse, golf...and skiing.
 
And, you do a whole lot more shootin when you reload, so in the end it costs more not less.
I used to go thru 700 centerfire pistol a month, 12 to 15 thous. shotgun shells a year, countless .22 rimfire and hundreds of center rifle stuff.
The good old days.
 
To think I came to this site 17 years ago to learn how to open the muffler up on my 036 so it would run better. Ya, coming here saved me money also :laughing:
 
And, you do a whole lot more shootin when you reload, so in the end it costs more not less.
I used to go thru 700 centerfire pistol a month, 12 to 15 thous. shotgun shells a year, countless .22 rimfire and hundreds of center rifle stuff.
The good old days.

Dang. I haven't shot a gun for fun since the Obama regime. Last time was a feral cat that kept coming at the shop and attacking all the other animals and people, plus peeing all over stuff.
 

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