Need help with a vermeer BC1500 auto feed problem.

[banddtreeservic]

Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[TRISTATEFORESTRYEQUIPMENT]

Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

sell the vermeer and buy a bandit.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

It sounds like you are doing a pretty good job of troubleshooting, considering you don't have the manual. The 4.5 volts seems a bit low as most DC sensor circuits today run at 5 V and that is normally held within about .1V of nominal. I don't have experience with that machine, but it appears as if a latching relay isn't holding. Are there any external relays for the system ?

Rick

 

[banddtreeservic]

I don't see any external relays. It looks as if the smart feed control box / module reads and controls everything. I was thinking maybe a problem in the wire harness, but don't have any schematics or parameters to go by at this moment. The wires are all covered in that tight mesh protective wrapping, so I can't physically see what connects to what inside the harness without cutting it or looking at a schematic. I am kind of stuck without the service manual, but was hoping maybe someone else has seen this problem or has an idea.

Thanks
Dave

 

[Greent trees]

I have had similar trouble with a 1400 and found that the lower feedbar sensors break as the bar wears out the bushings. Check them when in doubt disconnect them. It saves me hours chipping , maybe unsafe but it's not frustrating anymore. Put a jumper wire in each and see if it fixes the problem. Also my manual says that the light flashes fast when the lower bar gets touched The manuals aren't very helpful and mine never came with a wiring schematic Good luck


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?lu1y3s

 

[Greent trees]

I have had similar trouble with a 1400 and found that the lower feedbar sensors break as the bar wears out the bushings. Check them when in doubt disconnect them. It saves me hours chipping , maybe unsafe but it's not frustrating anymore. Put a jumper wire in each and see if it fixes the problem. Also my manual says that the light flashes fast when the lower bar gets touched The manuals aren't very helpful and mine never came with a wiring schematic Good luck


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?sqfns3

 

[equipmentguru]

The amber info light flashing fast means that one of the e-stop switches are activated. There is one on the feed control bar and two on the lower stop bar. It is probably one of those three switches.

 

[Lanova_Cell]

sell the vermeer and buy a bandit.

Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.

To answer the original question with more accuracy:

1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!

The way the e-stop system works is this:

The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.

There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.

The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
@ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.

The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.

I hope this points you in the right direction.

****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****

 

[Castelan Chipper Repair]

Hi My name is Dave and I am new to the site.I found this forum while searching online to try and solve a problem with my BC1500 that is just over a year old. The problem started yesterday. While chipping the autofeed stopped and the amber light began flashing as if the safety bar was pushed on. The bar had not been touched and I hit the green pushbutton to see if it would reset and it would not. Of course vermeer won't have the manual I ordered until a few more days. I started checking things myself and this is where I am at. I checked both proximity switches on the safety cutout bar with a ohmeter and they both are working, plus the green LED light is lit on the smartfeed module then goes out when you push the bar in. It returns green when you release it, so the circuit seems to be working. Next I checked the forward feed switch that is connected to the feed control bar and it ohms out also, and again the FWD bar LED light is also green when the bar is in feed position, then goes out when it is returned to center. The green push buttons are working because if you push either of them, the rollers begin to feed then stop when released.I checked the sensitivity switch and the main smart feed switch with a ohmeter and they both seem to ohm out in both positions as if the switches are working fine. I have 4.5 volts at the smartfeed switch on the instrument panel. Volts are at 14 as per the gauge. The feed rollers also reverse fine when the bar is pushed.I swapped the smartfeed module and resistor, and feed pressure sensor from another machine to try, but the problem still exists with the autofeed not working and the amber light flashing quickly.Without the manual I am about as far as I can go sice I have no schematics or parameters on the electrical system. Has anyone else had this problem, or does anyone have any ideas to try until my manual arrives? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

My name is Kevin. Check behind the control panel for 2 fuses in the wire loom, see if one of them is blown. I hope this helps.

 

[stgeorgetreeguy]

Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.

To answer the original question with more accuracy:

1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!

The way the e-stop system works is this:

The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.

There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.

The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
@ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.

The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.

I hope this points you in the right direction.

****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****

Thank you for the great answer... it gives me hopes..

 

[stgeorgetreeguy]

Save the brand rhetoric for the sales room.

To answer the original question with more accuracy:

1) If the e-stop ok LED on the smartfeed controller is lit then: THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH ANY OF THE E-STOP SWITCHES AND/OR WIRING!

The way the e-stop system works is this:

The controller sends power through the circuit to the normally closed switches on the feed table thigh bar and the top most switch on the directional control bar - if this circuit is complete (no switches tripped and/or faulty) then power is then received back @ the smartfeed controller at a different pin which tells the system that it is alright to feed.

There are 2 switches on the thigh bar. 1 is the normal sensitivity switch and the other is the reduced sensitivity switch.
While running in the normal sensitivity mode the switch on the LH side of the feed table is used by the controller to complete the e-stop circuit
While running in the reduced sensitivity mode the switch on the RH side of the feed table is used and the normal sensitivity switch is excluded.
The upper directional bar e-stop switch is used @ all times in the circuit.

The only other reason for the unit to not feed when this E-stop system is operable (e-stop ok LED lit) is a faulty magnetic p/u on the engine clutch housing. This can be quickly determined by again looking @ the LED's on the smartfeed controller - there should be an LED marked TACH.
@ low engine RPM's it will be dull and @ high RPM's it wil be bright. - if it's not lit @ all then you will have to replace the magnetic RPM sensor.

The smartfeed system is based on engine RPM's - the controller will shut down the infeed rollers @ a specific cut out RPM (for example feed rollers will shut down @ 2100RPM and re-engage @ 2375RPM. This system prevents the engine from bogging down too much when chipping large diameter material.

I hope this points you in the right direction.

****For those of you who have a winch equipped BC1500 there is also a winch interlock switch which is included in the e-stop system, if the winch rope is not secured in the storage loop correctly, then the e-stop system will be triggered as well****

So this might seem like a dumb question but what does the smartfeed controller look like ? what light are you talking about for it? where is it located?

 

[mrhemihead]

So this might seem like a dumb question but what does the smartfeed controller look like ? what light are you talking about for it? where is it located?

The controller is a module mounted on the chipper control panel, behind the gauges. LEDs on the controller indicate various functions . The controller does more than control smart feed.

 

[hermosaranch]

Hi Mr. HemiHead. Picking back up on this thread. Great info above. The E-stop is OK and TACH is bright. The Amber Info Light starts out blinking fast which stops when I press the Green roller buttons. The Forward LED is on. But then, after a few chips, the Amber Info Light goes to slow blinking. I had this happen a few times when the feeder drum would jam. But I've cleared jams and we're now stuck in an endless loop of turn-off, turn-on, chip one/two/three times before the Amber light blinks slowly again, disabling forward feed.

We are in hills and CA oaks. So chipping is tough. But I usually level the machine out. I have seen the oil/water LED turn off when on a slant. But when we level out, this LED stays lit. The engine appears to be fine, high rpm. Tach never turns off.

We just bought it used. 2008. The Vermeer dealer out here isn't that great. Wondered if you had any recommendations.

Thank you.

 

[mrhemihead]

What model do you have there and which engine?
Assuming there are no actual faults the controller can lock up if its not getting a clean source of power. My machine would do this occasionally until I replaced the alternator.

 

[hermosaranch]

2008 BC1000XL. I'm trying to find a single line diagram. Does it need 12VDC? The pink wire on the terminal block has been cut. And there's a clean band of wire insulation missing about three inches off the back of the block on the orange wire.

 

[hermosaranch]

I also worked on a slant, feed end on the high side. I noticed the oil / water led turned off. I then raised the front with some blocks, and then it turned back on. Wondering if the oil or water sensor wasn't making contact. Engine oil is clean and antifreeze is good. No leaks on the block and no smoke. Engine seems fine.

 

[hermosaranch]

3L Cummins desiel 990 hours. It looks and runs clean so far.

 

[mrhemihead]

2008 BC1000XL. I'm trying to find a single line diagram. Does it need 12VDC? The pink wire on the terminal block has been cut. And there's a clean band of wire insulation missing about three inches off the back of the block on the orange wire.

Yes the controller needs battery voltage at pin J7-1 orange wire. Using a digital voltmeter measure there with the meter set to read AC. Should read just a few mv.
See attached. After you save a copy this will be deleted.
I have chipped on an incline without issues but if your oil/water LED is blinking intermittently you may have a sensor or wiring fault.

 

[hermosaranch]

Awesome. Thanks! I'll go measure now. We bought ours for our property. Renting was too stressful. Now we can chip at our own pace. But I need to work out these bugs that the seller was too cheap to fix. So is the story of buying used equipment online. We'll figure it out, and thanks to folks like you and others online!

 

[mrhemihead]

Awesome. Thanks! I'll go measure now. We bought ours for our property. Renting was too stressful. Now we can chip at our own pace. But I need to work out these bugs that the seller was too cheap to fix. So is the story of buying used equipment online. We'll figure it out, and thanks to folks like you and others online!

Had the same experience with rental machines.
My BC1000XL does not leave the property. I purchased on ebay from a seller nearby. It worked as it should except for the smartfeed. Fixed that then the alternator went south, then the drum bearings got noisy. Been OK since. Since its not on a paid job site I can repair at my leisure.