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New to me homie

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Brent Adams, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. Okie

    Okie ArboristSite Guru

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    As indicated you can get by without the bronze or aluminum piece.

    The Duckbill usually won't fit onto the oil line snug without the bronze or aluminum piece and I've seen one or two that had a solid type restrictor push down inside the oil line. I've made a adapter that the duckbill will fit onto snug by using the insulation off of a solid copper electrical wire. I just strip off about 3/8 inch of the solid copper wire insulation, (don't remember the exact size, it is a #12 or #10) and the duckbill will fit onto it snug and the oil line will stretch over the type TW electrical insulation. The saws, will not overoil without the restrictor. You may even have to use a 30W oil to get good oiling even without the restrictor.

    Instead of using the really thick Stihl type bar oil I usually thin it with 50% 30 weight motor oil so as to get good oiling, especially in cold weather.

    Also keep a heads up as it's really easy to get the oil lines routed bassackards when replacing at the pump and she won't oil.

    Keep in mind that the oil cap must have a tight seal. (two different types of caps were used on them little darlings, a internal thread and a external thread caps. For a good seal on the external threaded caps you can use a correct size o ring on the cap. (them little cork gaskets for the caps are pricy, might have gold dust in the cork;):()
     
  2. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    Actually I have one or two of the bronze connectors in my Homelite spare parts can so I'll be using one of these instead of straight tubing..Since this one is so old it's possible it only has the one pulse line to the tank so I will be pretty hard to get the lines reversed.
     
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  3. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Lurker

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    Sounds good. Right now the oiler takes a back seat to the crank and clutch drum issue.
    This saw has been Frankensteined somewhat. It has a super 2 recoil cover on it. Main casing says XL2. Serial number has been rubbed off.
    How do I make sure I actually have an XL2, instead of a super 2 that someone replaced the casing on? Looking around, I'm seeing what seems like some differences in crankshaft, cylinder size, etc.
    Found an NOS crank with rod on chainsawr. Has part #A69132 listed. That part did not come up on Leons site when I typed it in, so I'm guessing maybe its not an OEM NOS part. Anyone know? Its a little pricey at 40 bucks. Id hate to order it, have it shipped down here to GA, and then not be able to use it.
     
  4. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    I wouldn't order a crankshaft when I can find a whole saw for five or ten dollars. Usually on these old Homelite saws I just change the engine if I'm having trouble with one, I used to keep five or six spare engines around, haven't checked my inventory lately..
     
  5. Okie

    Okie ArboristSite Guru

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    chainsawr has a good tech dept, but you may have to remove your crank to get measurements.

    Their stuff is usually right on in their descriptions of their stuff, but remember they are just like US, they cannot see your stuff.
    AND

    Lots of different version of them little Homie darlings. (and no ID numbers is quite common due to glued on stickers falling off. I take a etcher tool and scribe ID numbers into the case in couple places on mine and sometimes just go ahead and remove the glued on tag and file in Homie file after etching the ID numbers. (ID numbers save a lot of pain when trying to find correct parts, BUT I've seen where the power heads did not match the ID numbers on the case. (Franken saw internally and not readily apparent on the outside.
    I suspect if you just set it back and keep a eye and ear open you can eventually find a complete donor saw or two for that price.
     
  6. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks again
    Got it torn down and waiting for some parts or a donor saw to come around.
     

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