+1, we lost them due to “value added” changes to lower the cost, to hell with function & engineering...or what the owner/operator wanted, lol.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Its all a big scam. Looking in the latest husky flyer right now and a 435 is 800nz a 450 is 1300 from my understanding they are same saw with a different top end. Is there really 500 bucks in the extra material for the bigger cylinder n piston?
I dont collect saws. I just go for saws that I like and run no matter the brand.
I end up with lots of them because you cant buy parts at dealers. So I end up with bunches of the same saws that are the good ones IMO.
I dont mill so no need for extra bar oil.
Also I try to not run to long of a bar for a saw smaller cc size. Unless I am testing if it can do it and still oil using auto oiler .
Only time I have needed a manual oiler is when a crappy auto oiler dont work right like on some of the 3400 etc. JMO
Didnt use the override even on the big saws in 3120 084 and no clue if my 166's had it. Prob did but if auto works all I need.
My echos had them all the way down to 45cc to 80cc. Never used it.
All I need is a good auto oiler.
But if you like them good. Thats why we can make all of our own life's choices many times in our lifetime.
80cc top and 45cc bottom had them never used manual oilers.
Done for now doing the back exit and front exit mufflers for saws sold.
These are the front exit ones I had left over. They are matched with their right oem back halves.
One has seen better days. But a guy knowing how to weld can fix that one easy.
These are the front exit ones I had left over. They are matched with their right oem back halves.
One has seen better days. But a guy knowing how to weld can fix that one easy.
slimbo3006
ArboristSite Member
So just thought i'd post this for those interested and hopefully it will help somebody down the road.. If they find it in this 2800 page thread...LOL
I finally got around to converting my worn out 3400 to a 3800. ( and hopefully to a 4000 if a P/C ever comes available for a respectable price).
I made a homemade piston pin puller/pusher and it worked great.
So some backstory... My wife's grandfather brought me this 3400 one day that he found at the dump. It looked fairly clean...had spark but would not start so a $10 carb rebuild and I had it running.. it ran and cut OK but not great..did not pull very hard.. had low compression. only 90psi when hot.. So I found a 3800 parts saw for $35. P/C looked good.
Getting ready for the swap
So the wrist pin puller I made is nothing more than an m5 threaded rod with a nut made solid on one end. an m5 bolt would be ideal, but I could not find one long enough so I made this. on the other end is simply a nut (or 2 to lock it if needed). I ran the rod through a socket with a neoprene washer between the socket and the piston. I put a heavy washer over the socket just to brace it up a lil.
Once you tighten the nut down against the pin, just make sure it is not on the bearings and then you simply turn the solid not on the end and it pulls the pin out into the socket.
Just make sure the nut slides through the bearings
Then just start cranking the solid end and it pulls right through into the socket
Got both of them out in less than 5 minutes a piece
Installation is the same process, just pull the pin right into position
Squish was pretty big on this .05 or so, so I deleted the base gasket. Got it all put back together and up and running tonight. I have not put it in wood yet. might do that tomorrow. Give the motoseal a lil more time to cure and I want to idle it a bit more to let all the new parts get to know each other a little bit more.
I finally got around to converting my worn out 3400 to a 3800. ( and hopefully to a 4000 if a P/C ever comes available for a respectable price).
I made a homemade piston pin puller/pusher and it worked great.
So some backstory... My wife's grandfather brought me this 3400 one day that he found at the dump. It looked fairly clean...had spark but would not start so a $10 carb rebuild and I had it running.. it ran and cut OK but not great..did not pull very hard.. had low compression. only 90psi when hot.. So I found a 3800 parts saw for $35. P/C looked good.
Getting ready for the swap
So the wrist pin puller I made is nothing more than an m5 threaded rod with a nut made solid on one end. an m5 bolt would be ideal, but I could not find one long enough so I made this. on the other end is simply a nut (or 2 to lock it if needed). I ran the rod through a socket with a neoprene washer between the socket and the piston. I put a heavy washer over the socket just to brace it up a lil.
Once you tighten the nut down against the pin, just make sure it is not on the bearings and then you simply turn the solid not on the end and it pulls the pin out into the socket.
Just make sure the nut slides through the bearings
Then just start cranking the solid end and it pulls right through into the socket
Got both of them out in less than 5 minutes a piece
Installation is the same process, just pull the pin right into position
Squish was pretty big on this .05 or so, so I deleted the base gasket. Got it all put back together and up and running tonight. I have not put it in wood yet. might do that tomorrow. Give the motoseal a lil more time to cure and I want to idle it a bit more to let all the new parts get to know each other a little bit more.
I'm a big fan of the 3800 because they are so under rated and nobody wants them. It only takes a few minutes to square up the top of the exhaust port and open the muffler like a 4000 and you have a very nice wood cutter that will pull a 20 inch bar with the 61cc it has. It's not a screamer like a 3700 but it's not far away.
That was a total surprise that they were on everyone's wanted list.
All 4 front exit mufflers spoke for.
Last 2 I did doing them with front and back half exits.
Kevin , does this muffler have a pipe welded to the back half or is that a hood over a side hole ?
Scott
When you add the back halves with exit to front covers with exit. If you have a back half with tube you remove them. Seen both styles.
Only makes since to do this being your doing a dual port muffler mod.
Can anyone tell me how much and what diameter fuel line Wild Thang‘s take?
The model number of your wild thing would help .
+1
It uses the same common fuel line kit as the trimmers & weedeaters, so Woodslasher you just need to go look on fleabay...
Chainsaw 530037793 Gas Saw Fuel Line Kit
2 feet 6616 (530069216) Fuel Line Hose I.D. 0.080” by O.D. 0.140”(2mmx3.5mm)
2 feet 6617 (530069247) Fuel Line Hose I.D. 3/32” by O.D. 3/16”(2.5mmx5mm)
I know you can’t find old threads any more since the AS search engine was phucked with & only accepts four letters/numbers & up...but there are old posts about the line sizes.
Hey hotshot , I searched 'poulan fuel line' in the chainsaw forum and found a thread from 2016 titled Poulan WildThing Fuel Hoses . I've used member dougand3's mod on 2 poulan saws . My N.A.P.A dealer sells the Tygon F4040A 3/16" by 3/32 line for $1 per foot .
It's a Craftsman 358.361610, which I believe is a re-labeled Wild Thing.
That number does not work in sears direct dot com .
My bad, it's 358.351610
Much better .
That saw looks like my pp4018 and a friends pp4218 .
I don't know about the newer wildthings but I did the dougand3 fuel line drill the tank mod on my friends pp4218 and it worked nice . Ya gotta remove the carb to drill the tank .
Carb's already off, should I even try rebuilding it or just buy a new one?
You could open the carb and look to see if the diaphram is puckered .
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