OEM vs after market cylinder on a rebuild

[T-Dozzer]

Im slowly rebuilding an old 066 and looking for a cylinder while I do the bottom end, but not seeing much out there in decent used jugs. What can I expect in negatives if I went with a aftermarket cylinder? Any others to consider other than meteor?
I'll likely go with a meteor piston.
It will be a dedicated mill saw.
Thanks

 

[kenton.a.frank]

Milling is one of the hardest things to put a saw through. It is worth the investment in longevity to put an OEM on. They come up from time to time used on eBay. That’s the heart of the saw, put a weak one in and expect poor results.


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[user 122190]

It is a cylinder, not an iPhone (clone).

 

[Marshy]

Cross makes performance after market cylinders for that 660 that would be a nice upgrade without sacrificing reliability.

 

[computeruser]

The Cross “pre-ported” one would be a good choice.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Milling is one of the hardest things to put a saw through. It is worth the investment in longevity to put an OEM on. They come up from time to time used on eBay. That’s the heart of the saw, put a weak one in and expect poor results.


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Yeah, that's what I keep hearing, but cant get a straight answer on why. Is it a metallurgy deal, port quality etc...
Obviously, since it will be milling I dont want bigger ports since that would produce more heat.
The only OEM one Ive seen on ebay is $160, but includes a meteor piston. I dont know if thats a good deal or not.

 

[kenton.a.frank]

Yeah, that's what I keep hearing, but cant get a straight answer on why. Is it a metallurgy deal, port quality etc...
Obviously, since it will be milling I dont want bigger ports since that would produce more heat.
The only OEM one Ive seen on ebay is $160, but includes a meteor piston. I dont know if thats a good deal or not.

Types of metal used, coating on inside of cylinder wall, quality of mold and company allowing products to go out... its a list. Considering the eBay price for a cross performance top end 160 for oem cylinder and highest quality piston with caber rings doesn’t sound too bad.


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[T-Dozzer]

Cross makes performance after market cylinders for that 660 that would be a nice upgrade without sacrificing reliability.

https://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-066-MS660-cylinder-kit-54mm-p/cp30066.htm

If I went the cross route, is it better to stick with a cross piston or meteor piston?

 

[cuinrearview]

Ported saws will generally run a little cooler.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Types of metal used, coating on inside of cylinder wall, quality of mold and company allowing products to go out... its a list. Considering the eBay price for a cross performance top end 160 for oem cylinder and highest quality piston with caber rings doesn’t sound too bad.


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Gotcha. Thank you, Kenton.

 

[kenton.a.frank]

I don’t mean to offend. I use these for saws with a disclaimer when the guy buys it. The reason it is cheaper than the other saw is because it isn’t oem. I’ve had good luck with both this and the 064 big bore. If you go cross just use their piston it comes with caber rings so your covered there. Shoot I’d probably have a spare one around here I could ship to you for that price.

Otherwise I’d pony up the extra $40 for the oem if it is clean.

I guess I find it a no brained if it is a saw you are keeping and going to work it pretty hard. Again no offense but when I have a personal saw on my shelf I want it to be as strong possible and last forever.


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[T-Dozzer]

Ported saws will generally run a little cooler.

The exhuast port would make sense, but inlet too?
I was talking to a saw upgrade shop near me & he warned against porting on a mill saw. Im by no means an authority on the subject so Im just learning on the fly.

 

[cuinrearview]

The extra heat from milling comes from the bar and chain/clutch area. A bigger intake allows more cool charge into the saw.

 

[cuinrearview]

There are threads here with thermal images of saws running.

 

[kenton.a.frank]

Agree, you are running full throttle for 8-16 ft.


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[T-Dozzer]

I don’t mean to offend. I use these for saws with a disclaimer when the guy buys it. The reason it is cheaper than the other saw is because it isn’t oem. I’ve had good luck with both this and the 064 big bore. If you go cross just use their piston it comes with caber rings so your covered there. Shoot I’d probably have a spare one around here I could ship to you for that price.

Otherwise I’d pony up the extra $40 for the oem if it is clean.

I guess I find it a no brained if it is a saw you are keeping and going to work it pretty hard. Again no offense but when I have a personal saw on my shelf I want it to be as strong possible and last forever.


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No offense taken! Im hear to pick the brains of folks who know more about it than me so I appreciate the help.

 

[T-Dozzer]

So you fellas that recomend the cross pre-ported kit, would you say its as good as a used (in good condition) OEM?
best place to buy or links would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[drf255]

Ive got a Cross kit here I’d let go for under current cost. I even chamfered the ex port on it already-that’s a factory defect on the cross. The cross is designed to have more compression than a standard oem jug. Around 180-200 psi and can be run gasket delete.

“Porting” a saw, in and of itself, shouldn’t negate its use in any particular situation. But when a saw is a dedicated mill saw vs a race saw, the port timing and machining will be different.

Opening the muffler helps get rid of heat. You DO NOT want too much compression on a milling saw, which is typical for a port job. Compression just adds combustion chamber heat which is your enemy with milling.

I’d say stick with the oem. $160 for a clean oem jug with a new caber isn’t so bad of a deal. Open muffler and don’t advance the timing. Use good oil, like Belray H1R at 24:1 (yes that much) and take your time. Milling is hard on a saw and a surprisingly slow operation.

 

[Robin Wood]

Ive got a Cross kit here I’d let go for under current cost. I even chamfered the ex port on it already-that’s a factory defect on the cross. The cross is designed to have more compression than a standard oem jug. Around 180-200 psi and can be run gasket delete.

“Porting” a saw, in and of itself, shouldn’t negate its use in any particular situation. But when a saw is a dedicated mill saw vs a race saw, the port timing and machining will be different.

Opening the muffler helps get rid of heat. You DO NOT want too much compression on a milling saw, which is typical for a port job. Compression just adds combustion chamber heat which is your enemy with milling.

I’d say stick with the oem. $160 for a clean oem jug with a new caber isn’t so bad of a deal. Open muffler and don’t advance the timing. Use good oil, like Belray H1R at 24:1 (yes that much) and take your time. Milling is hard on a saw and a surprisingly slow operation.

very well said, compression increase is not a good idea for milling saw. they generate lotsa heat, 25:1 oil ratio is good for bottom end because excessive heat during milling burns some oil. thats why guys running 50:1 for milling often cook their bottom end

open up the muffler and tune it to rich side, clean the starter housing and cylinder sides from debris as often as possible. remember heat is the biggest enemy here, even dull chain can cause unnecessary rubbing and generate heat on the bar and clutch which can travel to the power head

 

[T-Dozzer]

Great advice. Thank you. Ill stick with OEM, run 25:1 & richen mixture.

Appreciate it.