Rayco RG50 Polybelt Pulley Replacement

epicklein22 · Apr 10, 2014

Hey guys, shredded the belt on my RG50 today and need to replace the belt and both the pulleys. Tried taking off one of the bushings that holds the pulleys on and it doesn't want to budge with my puller. Any tips on getting it off? Lots of heat? Any need to replace this assuming they come off fine?

Also, I'm gonna do the cutter wheel bearings while it's ripped apart. Anybody have good sources for the parts besides Rayco or have a part number for the linkbelt bearings?

At the moment, I'm planning on ordering the stuff from global equipment exporters.

Topbuilder · Apr 11, 2014

Good people. Best prices. Check their site for part #s. Got all the parts for my 50 from them. Can't help with install tips. Mine was in for an engine problem and I had the parts installed at that time. How many hours did you get on the sprocket belt and bearings?
Good luck.

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

Rayco at one time used Gates QD sprockets where the bushing is incorporated into the sprocket. My partner Randy, who does the mechanic work, usually has to burn them off. If you send me a photo of the sprocket, I can tell you what you have. If it is a QD sprocket, you'll have to update it to a sprocket with a taper loc bushing.

I appreciate the compliments!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-966-9056

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

Please see the photo below of a taper loc bushing. If this doesn't look familiar, you have a QD sprocket and you'll have to burn it off. Please be careful not to burn the shaft.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-966-9056

epicklein22 · Apr 11, 2014

Here are some pictures, part number on the smaller sprocket is 14m 28s 37HT. I've found that sprocket on ebay, it's made by gates.

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

Andrew,

You're more than likely going to have to get a cutting torch as this is the old QD version. Randy hates these.

Dave

epicklein22 · Apr 11, 2014

Is it just because they are tough to get off or are there other problems associated with this design?

If I have to torch them off, I assume you cut off the sprocket and bushing since the bushing goes inside the sprocket, correct? I know my puller isn't budging the bushing at all.

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

You're correct. Just be very careful not to cut into the shaft.

Dave

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

I think Gates replaced the QD version as it's very hard to get it off. When cutting it, do it on the opposite side of the keyway. After you get new ones, you'll have to get a straight edge and make sure both sprockets are aligned. The sprocket is sharp! You should be able to get around 400 hours on the top sprocket and maybe 600 hours out of the bottom.

Dave

epicklein22 · Apr 11, 2014

10/4, thanks for the heads up. I'm nothing special with a torch, so I'll sub that out. I'll be in touch for parts eventually once I get it all apart. Doing bearings too.

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

Sounds like fun. Just let me know what I can do to help.

Dave

cuttinscott · Apr 11, 2014

Wow, OK TAPER LOCK BUSHINGS.... On this set up The 3 open holes draw the hub into the pulley to tighten. THE 3 TAPPED Holes in the Bushing are to Remove the Pulley from the Bushing. Remove the bolts that hold the pulley to the bushing and install them into the tapped holes lube the hub with penetrant and tighten the 3 bolts evenly till the pulley comes loose from the Bushing!!!! Then the Bushing should slide off the shaft depending on rust factor you may need to use a slide hammer or puller to remove bushing from shaft..

Scot

epicklein22 · Apr 11, 2014

Ya, easier said than done there Scot. I'm not done trying, but it doesn't want to move with my puller attached to it as you can see in the picture and I've put some ass on it.

Eq Broker · Apr 11, 2014

Scot,

The setup Andrew is tackling is a QD sprocket and not a taper loc bushing. The taper loc bushing is in the photo I listed and that's what he'll go to after getting this one off as I don't think he wants to go through this again. You're right about removing a taper loc bushing as it's much easier than a QD.

Throw the flame and air to it Andrew. It'll be the only way it comes off.

Good luck,

Dave

epicklein22 · Apr 14, 2014

Well, I got the bushing off without torching them off. I ran the bolts back through the threaded part and then started beating on the bushing with a hammer, which shocked it, tightened the bolts some, hammer some more, etc. I broke one bolt off, but overall, it wasn't too bad getting them off. My puller didn't want to budge them when I tried earlier last week. Maybe I got lucky, but I'm just glad they are off.

Was able to remove the cutter wheel bearings this morning with a big puller I loaned from a buddy. Ordering bearings from Dave here this morning.

Thanks for help guys!

Eq Broker · Apr 14, 2014

Miracles never cease.

Dave

CalTreeEquip · Apr 19, 2014

I must be missing something here. Scotts comment is correct. You drive the bushing out via the three threaded holes. One does not need a puller.
I does help to soak it in penetrating lube if its being a problem and also I use new grade 8 bolts because they do tend to break on tough ones.
I might even run a tap through the threads if they are rusty.
I know they can be a ***** but a little patients usually does the trick.

Ncdave · Nov 25, 2018

How do you get it back on? Is there an adjustment for the tension on the pulley to slide it down or the lower pulley up?

cuttinscott said:
Wow, OK TAPER LOCK BUSHINGS.... On this set up The 3 open holes draw the hub into the pulley to tighten. THE 3 TAPPED Holes in the Bushing are to Remove the Pulley from the Bushing. Remove the bolts that hold the pulley to the bushing and install them into the tapped holes lube the hub with penetrant and tighten the 3 bolts evenly till the pulley comes loose from the Bushing!!!! Then the Bushing should slide off the shaft depending on rust factor you may need to use a slide hammer or puller to remove bushing from shaft..

Scot

Eq Broker · Nov 26, 2018

Hi Andrew,

It sounds like you're coming along just fine.

You have to loosen the motor mount bolts. On the mounts closest to the engine, you'll see a block with a slit in it. Remove the bolt closest to the end with the slit. You'll have to loosen the others as well. Then you'll see a threaded rod and you'll have to drive that nut down to loosen the top sprocket.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400

Ncdave · Nov 27, 2018

I got that part. The bushing is extremely hard to get on. Is that normal? Do I tighten the bushing all the way to the pulley and will that make it slide on easier? Already broke 1 bushing!

Eq Broker said:
Hi Andrew,

It sounds like you're coming along just fine.

You have to loosen the motor mount bolts. On the mounts closest to the engine, you'll see a block with a slit in it. Remove the bolt closest to the end with the slit. You'll have to loosen the others as well. Then you'll see a threaded rod and you'll have to drive that nut down to loosen the top sprocket.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400

Rayco RG50 Polybelt Pulley Replacement

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