Remington Super 754
- Thread starter WolfMann
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A pair of tight fitting drill bits, shank end up, chucked up in the bench vice. Block the piston.
Turn the saw, hold the clutch.[emoji6]
Good ideas. Thanks.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
Has anyone ever seen a manual for one of these? Maybe know where to find an online pdf? I've looked around this site and others but can't seem to find one. Would like to check the condenser along with ignition coil.
happysaws
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I have a few different manuals for the Super 754, but none of them have any info about the condenser or coil.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
Well that's interesting, there must be a test somewhere...
I also wanted to ask about different bar lengths, my understanding is, the largest bar that came with this saw was 23 inches. However I've seen people (online) who have gone up to a 36 inch bar. Is this recommended? Will an aftermarket bar fit safely on one of these? What would you all suggest using?
As always thank you for your advice and experience in these matters, you guys are awesome.
I also wanted to ask about different bar lengths, my understanding is, the largest bar that came with this saw was 23 inches. However I've seen people (online) who have gone up to a 36 inch bar. Is this recommended? Will an aftermarket bar fit safely on one of these? What would you all suggest using?
As always thank you for your advice and experience in these matters, you guys are awesome.
With a manual oiler, you will want to stop at 20-24.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
So the ignition has a weak, intermittent spark, I've been looking into replacement coils for this Wico FW series. It seems like they don't make them anymore, does anyone here have experience with aftermarket coils or capacitors? I've seen a number of coils that look like they would fit, not 100% on what would work though. Thanks guys.
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Look into ‘C’ type Homelites. They used the same style Wico/Prestolite ignitions.
First off, the coil has to be good for the ‘chip’ to work.
That being the case, just keep the points and clean/polish/set them.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would guess that the weak intermittent spark is coming from the points. I'd replace the points if you can't save the old ones.
I grind the points with a soft and then a hard Arkansas stone.
Haven’t needed a ‘new’ set.
Haven’t needed a ‘new’ set.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
It may also be the condenser, I could have been wrong (it's happened before believe it or not) in diagnosing the coil, I've been reading around and finding that 8,000 ohms is what your looking for on some older Wico coils, that's exactly what Im getting when testing.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
I was thinking I could try the chip,(for $15) and if im getting great spark after, I know where the problem lies. Could switch back to points afterwards too, yeah?
Does 8000 ohms sound right for the secondary coil on one of these?
Does 8000 ohms sound right for the secondary coil on one of these?
NovaII, Mega-Fire, Stens, Oregon, pretty much all the same if not all the same. All have a separate ground lug in the event polarity needs reversed. Others are grounded by their housing contacting the case which puts you SOL if the polarity is wrong. Heat is the typical killer of these modules, not magnetism. Matter of fact, mounting in an area that would benefit from flywheel cooling is desirable if possible. Otherwise, find a cool and protected location. The airbox is frequently used on saws lacking any other alternative. The last one I did on a Stihl 032 is actually mounted on the coil.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you, I ordered a nova ii module for the saw. I believe it has two terminals for positive or negative ground. Any tips for checking saw polarity? Also should I remove points and condenser from coil housing before installing nova, or should it be alright to leave in place? Good tip about keeping cool.
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