Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I am a teacher by profession and do a little firewood on the side. I'm Looking for a truck that can haul wood , get the kids to/from school and me to work, yet I want something that won't kill me on gas but not have an anemic 4cyl engine.....
...

You could get a Subaru :innocent:

Better 9th Nov 16.jpg


Oh, right. You said you didn't want an anaemic 4 cyl engine...
 
You could get a Subaru :innocent:

View attachment 614346


Oh, right. You said you didn't want an anaemic 4 cyl engine...

I don't deliver far, but something that was made to handle a load- engine, braking, and suspension wise.

I'd love to find 12 valve Cummins that isn't a fortune.....
 
That goes a long way towards explaining why I am not married. :laugh:

No, no, it's quite ok, she's not making me do any noodle or orchard related work! That's her project, and it was my suggestion to raid the noodle pile at 'my' scrounge tree. But there's also method in my madness (yes, really). Fire restriction season starts on Monday and with that there are certain restrictions/requirements on machinery use (chainsaws, mowers, slashers etc) in dry areas. Farmers start bushfires fairly regularly with slashers and despite all the deadly snakes, spiders, scorpions and drop bears, bushfire is the only thing around here that I really fear. Anyway, things are still pretty green around here and I can still cut without restriction providing it's not dry in the area and now that Cowgirl has removed all the drying noodles I can carry on safe from interference. It's not actually the authorities who would go out of their way to pull me up but some whiny busybody complaining to them that could make my life more difficult.

Just been to the scrounge pile. Thought I'd get a photo of the pile but it was too dark. Loaded the car up very full with Oak. I'd been told it was 'just a small oak to take down' hmm, back up to the pile and get out to see a load of 22" rounds :) all bucked to stove length and look like straight grain easy splitting. So I loaded the car to the gunnels ...tried another photo...to dark :( It was loaded though, most I've ever loaded it and probably about 1 round 2 many. Coming over a speed hump on the way home I heard the back ground, just the mud flaps I think on inspection, then again on reversing up the driveway despite taking it at an angle to help. No damage though. Just having some toast and a cuppa, then after unloading I'm off for a second load. This one will be smaller....there's not so much oak left!

We're going to need some pics soon, Neil. You've been teasing for a while with reports of loaded up Londoncars and 25 cube Londonwoodpiles.

:thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:

How'd the new heater go? And did you finish off that brick and barbed wire infested ash in the end?
 
Joe, is that a savage 99?? Beautiful gun! On my wish list. Just .300 savage. But looking at your pic I'd say 250 worked just as well
Matt, here are the four I had with me. Left corner is a 1950 Model R in 250, next is the 1912 Model H 22 HiPower, 1051 R in 300, and last is a 1908 Model B, 26 inch octagon barrel, Joe.

gL4ovp9.jpg
 
I wish there where people that just wanted to get rid of black locust trees around here.

Same here. I lucked out an in somewhere around 5 years harvested around 100 cord. Early 20x0s. Still luck into one occasionally but I pretty well denuded the country for 30 miles around me. Locust borer moved in and killed them by the acre. BL here is an imported species and usually only found around the old homesteads - planted by teh settlers for fencing material. Still have at least 60-70 cord, burn about 3/year. Junk wood fills out the 6+ cord I use.

I did luck into 4 cords of oak last spring. Again homestead take-outs.
 
The solution is simple!!!

A saw's compression DOES NOT increase with age.

A 60 cc saw should not be hard to pull over.

An old carb may leak a bit, causing hydro lock, making the saw near impossible to start.

Don't confuse dealers with rocket scientists, there is a reason these sites are so popular. The dealer's main objective is to sell you a new saw.

Change or rebuild your carb, and give it a tune up if you have not already. Or, if you want to sell your saw cheap, just let me know.

Your fuel system is pressurized (as it should be). When you shut your saw down, fuel is leaking into the crank case. This results in hydro lock, making it very difficult to start. The leaking carb is your problem, nothing else makes sense. It is an easy fix.

If you need help with how to do it, just say so.

Thanks. That may be it. It acts about like the 193T which is also a hard puller. I know 3 others with them and they all complain about it. I'm changing my starting procedure to the hold it in the air pull/push method which seems a bit better. I used the 'handle behind theknee' method since 1967.
 
Rebuild kits for your carb are $7 and brand new carbs (shipped) are $15-$20 on the Bay.

How can you not do that on a saw that you like???

Also, when did you last change fuel filter, air filter & plug? They are not supposed to last forever, but that saw you have should last about forever for you.

It has eaten a whole forest in its life. I bought it new the first or second year of production and has been my main saw with bars up to 28" doing 12+ cord/yr.

Fuel filter and plug changed last spring. Air filter blown out and rinsed in gas several times a season.
 
When I was starting my Homelite Super 1050, 100cc's, no release, with 36" bar, I'd lock the trigger wide open, put my foot in the trigger handle, hold onto the wrap handle with my left hand, close my eyes, grit my teeth and pull with my right hand. If it popped back and ripped a couple fingers off, I'd cry for a few minutes, and try again, Joe.
 
Okay there was more oak left than I thought. I did throw about half a dozen 1' diameter rounds of cypress and some other softwood in last just to fill the car but tbh it seems I'd overfilled with oak again....more mud flap scrappage as I reverse (even more carefully!) up the drive. Checked again, still no damage, phew! So 2 loads and probably about 2m3 of english oak collected :D

Now sat here with the faint burny/chemical smell of curing stove paint as stove#2 gets fully commisioned and gives me its first heat. First cool kindling burn done, now doing second hotter kindling burn, 3rd hot proper burn to come. Just a little smoke from the first burn, although the smell continues with the second. Thankfully my fiancee and 2 little girls are way visiting parents/grandparents.
 
The solution is simple!!!

A saw's compression DOES NOT increase with age.

A 60 cc saw should not be hard to pull over.

An old carb may leak a bit, causing hydro lock, making the saw near impossible to start.

Don't confuse dealers with rocket scientists, there is a reason these sites are so popular. The dealer's main objective is to sell you a new saw.

Change or rebuild your carb, and give it a tune up if you have not already. Or, if you want to sell your saw cheap, just let me know.

Your fuel system is pressurized (as it should be). When you shut your saw down, fuel is leaking into the crank case. This results in hydro lock, making it very difficult to start. The leaking carb is your problem, nothing else makes sense. It is an easy fix.

If you need help with how to do it, just say so.
Any merit to pulling the plug just before the next cold start and checking how wet things are in there?
 
@Cowboy254 I agree I am photo sparse recently :( I arrived at the pile just too late...I tried but couldn't get anything with my phone camera, its pants in the dark. I'll get you a picture of the retrieved oak tomorrow :)

Re. the noodles, aren't you and cowgirl better off to let them compost then dig them in? I mix saw chips with grass cuttings and my stove ash, then once rotted/composted it is spread as a mulch and soil improver.
 
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