Silvey raker grinder clone

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Marks Repair

marks repair
Joined
Jan 10, 2019
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Location
north east ohio
Hello, this is my first post. I sharpen a lot of chains for customers and have been looking for a silvey raker grinder for a while , with no luck. So i thought i would make one. with a couple of pictures and a few videos on youtube this is what i came up with.




It's not perfect but it works well. Not bad for $50 in scrap metal and a harbor freight motor.
 
Very cool! I need one ;) do you have any overall pictures of it? how do you keep tension on the chain?
 
Sir you are an inspiration! That has got to be one of the coolest prototype clones I have ever seen. What I like the most is how your one short video helped me to finally understand how the wheel lift shoe is able to clear the wheel from the cutting edge of each tooth without letting the shoe itself damage the cutter. Awesome job Mark! Thanks for showing us this amazing piece of work! Now I have to get busy building one for my shop!!!!
 
Hello, this is my first post. I sharpen a lot of chains for customers and have been looking for a silvey raker grinder for a while , with no luck. So i thought i would make one. with a couple of pictures and a few videos on youtube this is what i came up with.




It's not perfect but it works well. Not bad for $50 in scrap metal and a harbor freight motor.

Care to share details on how you built it
 
So what if you have a few teeth that hit a rock and they had to be ground down farther than the rest, are you still only grinding the rakers the same depth as the rest of the teeth? The best way to file rakers is per individual tooth, not one height does them all.

Cool idea though
 
So what if you have a few teeth that hit a rock and they had to be ground down farther than the rest, are you still only grinding the rakers the same depth as the rest of the teeth? The best way to file rakers is per individual tooth, not one height does them all.

Cool idea though
In production ain’t gonna happen.
Teeth will be ground the same I think anyway
 
So what if you have a few teeth that hit a rock and they had to be ground down farther than the rest, are you still only grinding the rakers the same depth as the rest of the teeth? The best way to file rakers is per individual tooth, not one height does them all.

Cool idea though

In production ain’t gonna happen.
Teeth will be ground the same I think anyway

Always was taught all teeth need to be the same length same with rakers to have equal cuts as well as bar wear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Always was taught all teeth need to be the same length same with rakers to have equal cuts as well as bar wear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s not entirely correct. You can take a brand new chain, file down one side and not touch the other. Then take a raker gauge and file all the rakers accordingly. Saw will cut perfectly straight and still be smooth. That’s been proven. Like I said earlier if you hit something and damage five teeth real good, you’re telling me you’re going to file all the teeth down to match?

In production that could be true. Most chains probably just dull up.
 
That’s not entirely correct. You can take a brand new chain, file down one side and not touch the other. Then take a raker gauge and file all the rakers accordingly. Saw will cut perfectly straight and still be smooth. That’s been proven. Like I said earlier if you hit something and damage five teeth real good, you’re telling me you’re going to file all the teeth down to match?

In production that could be true. Most chains probably just dull up.

Yes I do, I grind all the teeth the same running harvester you see the difference with bar wear much faster from a side to side difference in the cutters it looks like a miss fire. Even running square when hand falling you’ll see a side walk in large wood your cuts will not line up most guys compensate well cutting, take that chain that’s filed like you say and let go of the handle it’ll walk or mismatch the cut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s not entirely correct. You can take a brand new chain, file down one side and not touch the other. Then take a raker gauge and file all the rakers accordingly. Saw will cut perfectly straight and still be smooth. That’s been proven. Like I said earlier if you hit something and damage five teeth real good, you’re telling me you’re going to file all the teeth down to match?

In production that could be true. Most chains probably just dull up.
I sharpen mainly for orchards. Lol
They don’t stop when dull often.
So you grind them all back.
 
Yes I do, I grind all the teeth the same running harvester you see the difference with bar wear much faster from a side to side difference in the cutters it looks like a miss fire. Even running square when hand falling you’ll see a side walk in large wood your cuts will not line up most guys compensate well cutting, take that chain that’s filed like you say and let go of the handle it’ll walk or mismatch the cut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A raker gauge that files each tooth individually will make different cutter lengths cut straight. Fact.
 
It almost seems like it's time for someone to build a sliding-compound-miter-saw style grinder which references off the two adjacent teeth- much like a file and gauge does
 

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