Welcome to A.S.
Could you sketch that idea out?
Thanks.
Philbert
Absolutely! Thanks for the welcome, I've always had arboristsite pop up in my searches and so I figured might as well hop in and ask around. To the task at hand...
I mentioned making a grinder than references off the adjacent tooth of a raker in order to get the most accurate cut and least jerky effect when a chainsaw cuts through a log. I've seen Hannes' post on making DIY raker guides- not to rehash it or take credit for his excellent write up, I thought I had understood his findings to conclude that:
Grinding the depth of the raker in relation to the two surrounding teeth on a chain will over time, produce a different angle of the raker to tooth being that the gullet enlarges and the gap between the front of the tooth and the back of the raker; expands. If we are filing down the standard .025" as referenced off the two adjacent teeth, we will over time make the angle shallower and shallower that is formed from the imaginary plane formed off the tops of the guide links and the plane formed by the top of the raker and tooth (see upper left quadrant of pic below).
Therefore, a traditional depth gauge will over the life of a chain, produce a slower cutting chain as the gap between the tooth and raker enlarges and creates a shallower angle of attack if you will.
In addition to a chain cutting slower as the chain is filed down, irregularities in a teeth height on a loop of chain will make it so that the traditional raker depth gauge is referencing averages of teeth height- some rakers will be too high or too low thanks to an adjacent tooth, therefore cutting a larger or smaller chip and producing vibrations in the saw handle or even boging the saw down.
How might we be able to remedy all of these problems? Use a depth stop on a chop-saw style sharpener that stops at the height of the tooth and only allows the grinding wheel down so far. There is a slant dressed into the wheel that matches your preferred angle of attack (raker to tooth angle as mentioned already) and so as long as you manage to align some of the depth stop on the tooth, the grinding wheel should in theory take the raker down the necessary amount.
All of this is what I have been able to observe and read from other as it certainly is more of a concept that model but if you have an criticism or comments, I am all ears! If built for a chop saw style sharpener, I imagine your only hindrance in becoming very efficient time wise would be advancing the cutters in rapid succession and avoiding clipping the top off the tooth. It certainly would be cool to have a hand crank raker grinder as built by the OP with this slant wheel built in as well as a cam timing chain to know when to lift the grinding wheel over the teeth and onto the rakers......
Thanks for reading and let me know what you think!- Erick
