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breymeyerfam

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My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
OLD SPLITTER pic attached
 

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My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
OLD SPLITTER pic attached
Looks good to me!
 
New splitter requirements:
1. Indestructible - tired of fixing stuff
2. Plenty of power (5" cylinder)
3. Hydraulically adjustable 4 way wedge
4. Log lift.

Haven't decided on type of log lift. I like the boom lift on my current splitter since it rotates almost 360°, but I'm thinking of doing the normal side lift table.
 
1. Indestructible - tired of fixing stuff
2. Plenty of power (5" cylinder)
If you're breaking stuff with a 4", you will break more with a 5". I personally think 4" can be more than enough, if the wedge design is right, and you run the right pressure. I would be concerned with what's breaking and why.
 
The beginnings of this splitter started when I was in my late teens. Let's just say most of the flaws of my old splitter can be attributed to my fab skills, attention to detail, and design/ material selection all may have not been up to par when I first built it.

My new design I have been thinking about and tweaking for a few years. Where I have ended up, is very similar to the Eastonmade 12-22. I will post a screen shot of what I have 3d modeled so far.
 
A suggestion for the beam - use 2 rectangular schedule 40 tubes ( my own unit uses a pair of 4x6 schedule 40 tubes welded together all along the mating surfaces. way more strength that a W or H beam in all directions. As far as the flanges for the slide that can be bolted or welded on angle Iron ( which makes them replaceable if a oops happens or just too much wear.) you can also add a wear plate on top of the tubes ( i have a 3/8 x 8" plate on top) could be bolted or welded in place. i have manged to flex it ( 5" cylinder close to 30ton) but never deformed it, H or W beams deform generally along the length from the face of the cylinder to the wedge ( have T-shirt to that effect.)
 
A suggestion for the beam - use 2 rectangular schedule 40 tubes ( my own unit uses a pair of 4x6 schedule 40 tubes welded together all along the mating surfaces. way more strength that a W or H beam in all directions. As far as the flanges for the slide that can be bolted or welded on angle Iron ( which makes them replaceable if a oops happens or just too much wear.) you can also add a wear plate on top of the tubes ( i have a 3/8 x 8" plate on top) could be bolted or welded in place. i have manged to flex it ( 5" cylinder close to 30ton) but never deformed it, H or W beams deform generally along the length from the face of the cylinder to the wedge ( have T-shirt to that effect.)

Got a picture?
 
That beam looks a bit wimpy for the wedge height. Ecspecially for a 5” cylinder.

I pray your u have a plan to reinfore it for twisting forces.
 
My old splitter is just that. Old, underpowered, and ugly. I built it out of mostly scraps. It has a boom lift. Non adjustable 4 way wedge that is removable. 4 inch cylinder. I needed a new winter project,so this is it. Won't be a quick build. I'm going to try to make this new one a little less fugly!
OLD SPLITTER pic attached
It may be fugly today but 60 years ago it was cutting edge!
 
If you plan on using a splitter for more than a dozen cords of wood then the top plate on top of your cradle needs to be at least a inch thick to reduce wear. My original was 3/4'' thick and worked OK, but had to rebuild the I beam every couple of years. Eventually welded another 1/2'' under the top edge and it is now going several years before needing to be refaced. Another thing that I stumbled on to was using heavy gauge tubing for the base of the cradle which acts like a cooler along with hydraulic storage. Are you planning for suspension or are your roads flat? Thanks
 
If you plan on using a splitter for more than a dozen cords of wood then the top plate on top of your cradle needs to be at least a inch thick to reduce wear. My original was 3/4'' thick and worked OK, but had to rebuild the I beam every couple of years. Eventually welded another 1/2'' under the top edge and it is now going several years before needing to be refaced. Another thing that I stumbled on to was using heavy gauge tubing for the base of the cradle which acts like a cooler along with hydraulic storage. Are you planning for suspension or are your roads flat? Thanks


That's why I like the box on a box design. I've gone to that and have had NO issues. That and make the slide box as long as you can, mine is 16 inches. Takes any side play out of the equation as it is so long and the wear is basically eliminated. I'm running a 5 inch diameter cylinder with a 30 inch stroke which I adjust down too 24 but nice to have options. ;)

MVC-001S_13.JPG
 

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