Homemade Log Splitter Issues

[jostheim]

First post!

I bought a log splitter off marketplace for cheap as a project to fix up, it is built like a tank, but needs love. It came with a

Tecumseh TVM220 engine (vertical shaft)
Cross 4 inch bore 16 inch stroke cylinder
Hydreco 1515C1C1 pump
2702 control box (can’t read the manufacturer, something with two EE’s)

Engine needed a new solid state ignition coil, and I slapped on a new carb and muffler (was rotted) and it runs well. Finally got that wired up and good; so yesterday slapped a belt on the pulleys and got the cylinder to move. Went to split a tiny piece of oak and the cylinder was gutless, barely made a dent and then spun the belt (pump wouldn’t spin). Shut her down and noticed the pump was leaking from its bottom seam.

Now my guess is the pump is toast… is rebuilding it a good option?

If it isn’t, all the affordable pumps seem to be direct drive, which given where the undercarriage is and the engine is would be difficult for me to do. I was wondering if I could add a shaft and a flange bearing above an offset new pump, drive that with the engine and pulleys, and then lovejoy couple to the affordable 2 stage pumps. That way the shaft and flange bearing I add take the side load rather than the pump… is that possible?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mike Van]

some pics would help - maybe the belt is just slipping? Lovejoys are the best, a simple mount under the vertical shaft would be easier than trying this, that, and everything between.

 

[jostheim]

I would love to do it directly under the engine shaft, but the undercarriage is right there, I ordered an affordable pump and I’ll see how much of the undercarriage I’d have to cut out.. I’ll get some pics…

on slipping, the belt was shredding before i stopped the engine and it was good and tight

some pics would help - maybe the belt is just slipping? Lovejoys are the best, a simple mount under the vertical shaft would be easier than trying this, that, and everything between.

some pics would help - maybe the belt is just slipping? Lovejoys are the best, a simple mount under the vertical shaft would be easier than trying this, that, and everything between.

 

[jostheim]

I would love to do it directly under the engine shaft, but the undercarriage is right there, I ordered an affordable pump and I’ll see how much of the undercarriage I’d have to cut out.. I’ll get some pics…

on slipping, the belt was shredding before i stopped the engine and it was good and tight

 

[Del_]

Galvanized pipe is not suitable for log splitter pressures.

 

[jostheim]

Galvanized pipe is not suitable for log splitter pressures.

I didn’t build it . Needless to say I will use new fittings with my new pump

 

[Del_]

I didn’t build it . Needless to say I will use new fittings with my new pump

Just letting you know.

Welcome to the site.

You're going to like it here.

 

[jostheim]

Just letting you know.

Welcome to the site.

You're going to like it here.

I appreciate it, I am still learning about hydraulics, so I definitely will now specifically look for hydraulic rated fittings… except for the tank to inlet and return to tank, those should be low pressure right?

 

[Del_]

I appreciate it, I am still learning about hydraulics, so I definitely will now specifically look for hydraulic rated fittings… except for the tank to inlet and return to tank, those should be low pressure right?

Low pressure use should be fine but black iron is better.

I've read where galvanized might shed particles that could damage O rings, etc. Maybe someone her will confirm if true or not.

Never check for hydraulic leaks with your hand. The oil could penetrate your skin and cause a lot of damage making treatment difficult. Once I had an elbow with an almost invisible crack and the only evidence of a leak was oil dripping slowly from a solid steel part of the bucket truck. Lucky I didn't get in there feeling around. The small stream of oil was invisible.

 

[Greaser007]

I've been nursing an old homemade splitter for years.
Everything I've learned about it I have learned here in these forums.

Your 4-inch ram should split wood with a 6-hp engine.

I'm guessing you cycled the ram several times to bleed out air in the system.
If the splitter set-up was designed with a belt, it should work.
I purchased a two-speed pump which I haven't used yet.
So, I'm running a 4-inch x 24-inch ram with a single stage pump and 6-hp Predator.

 

[jostheim]

First post!

I bought a log splitter off marketplace for cheap as a project to fix up, it is built like a tank, but needs love. It came with a

Tecumseh TVM220 engine (vertical shaft)
Cross 4 inch bore 16 inch stroke cylinder
Hydreco 1515C1C1 pump
2702 control box (can’t read the manufacturer, something with two EE’s)

Engine needed a new solid state ignition coil, and I slapped on a new carb and muffler (was rotted) and it runs well. Finally got that wired up and good; so yesterday slapped a belt on the pulleys and got the cylinder to move. Went to split a tiny piece of oak and the cylinder was gutless, barely made a dent and then spun the belt (pump wouldn’t spin). Shut her down and noticed the pump was leaking from its bottom seam.

Now my guess is the pump is toast… is rebuilding it a good option?

If it isn’t, all the affordable pumps seem to be direct drive, which given where the undercarriage is and the engine is would be difficult for me to do. I was wondering if I could add a shaft and a flange bearing above an offset new pump, drive that with the engine and pulleys, and then lovejoy couple to the affordable 2 stage pumps. That way the shaft and flange bearing I add take the side load rather than the pump… is that possible?

Thanks in advance!

So I got the pump taken apart and found some teflon tape caught up in it, and the o-ring looks toasted.

Wondering if anyone knows where I can source a new O-ring? These seem like useful pumps to have around, going for hundreds of dollars on ebay… Anything else I should look for in the pump now that I have it open?

 

[nedsim]

So I got the pump taken apart and found some teflon tape caught up in it, and the o-ring looks toasted.

Wondering if anyone knows where I can source a new O-ring? These seem like useful pumps to have around, going for hundreds of dollars on ebay… Anything else I should look for in the pump now that I have it open?

That looks like a square profile ring? McMaster-Carr is the easiest place I know of to match up what you have, assuming it's a standard size:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/r.../square-profile-oil-resistant-buna-n-o-rings/
If it's not a standard, you can buy the stock of the proper size and the adhesive to splice it and make what you need. The adhesive is expensive and has a very short shelf life, but you do what you gotta do.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/r...ofile-oil-resistant-buna-n-o-ring-cord-stock/
https://www.mcmaster.com/7569A22/
Re inspecting the pump, it's all about clearances and internal leakage. You can look for obvious wear, galling, etc., but the proof is in the performance. Many years ago I built a couple large test stands for hydraulic pumps and motors for Parker. Despite the fact that some of the parts were lapped/ground as matched sets, and that the assemblers selected graded parts as the pumps and motors were going together, every unit was tested after assembly.

 

[turnkey4099]

So I got the pump taken apart and found some teflon tape caught up in it, and the o-ring looks toasted.

Wondering if anyone knows where I can source a new O-ring? These seem like useful pumps to have around, going for hundreds of dollars on ebay… Anything else I should look for in the pump now that I have it open?

I worked 5 years in a place building agricultural tillage implements. We learned NEVER use teflon tape on hydraulic fittings for that very reason.

 

[jostheim]

I worked 5 years in a place building agricultural tillage implements. We learned NEVER use teflon tape on hydraulic fittings for that very reason.

I ordered a new 2 stage pump, so I won’t need the old pump. The old pump was leaking from the seal where I split it, makes me think it might still have life. If I order a new seal, is there anyway for me to test it aside from hooking up to fluid and a motor? Guessing the answer is no…

 

[jostheim]

I've been nursing an old homemade splitter for years.
Everything I've learned about it I have learned here in these forums.

Your 4-inch ram should split wood with a 6-hp engine.

I'm guessing you cycled the ram several times to bleed out air in the system.
If the splitter set-up was designed with a belt, it should work.
I purchased a two-speed pump which I haven't used yet.
So, I'm running a 4-inch x 24-inch ram with a single stage pump and 6-hp Predator.

I did cycle it not under load… when put under load, the pump started leaking at its split point, and then the pump got very hard to turn and shredded my belt (which was tight). I ordered a new 2 stage pump and will be direct driving it with a lovejoy coupler… pics soon!

 

[jostheim]

So been a few weeks, but I got all the parts and fabbed up the new pump.

Basically attached the new pump to a steel plate and then took threaded rod through the engine mount holes and attached the pump and plate to the threaded rod. Then a lovejoy coupler to adapt the shafts and we were in business.

After I did that I removed all the hydraulic fittings and replaced them with hydraulic ones, added a return side filter for the oil, and new hydraulic controls.

Had a minor quality control issue with the pump, one of the socket head screws on the lower section was leaking…. some thread sealant (for hydraulics) fixed that.

I got the first test log split last night! No leaks from the cylinder yet…

Only thing left is to get the engine tuned up, is it worth using a spark plug tach meter? I have a cheap one from tuning chain saws

 

[Del_]

It's good to see you coming along!

Your assembly for the pump/motor adaption is not the best design as far as withstanding torque. If you've got it adjusted the best you can do it might be wise to have a welder strengthen it up a bit with some steel.

 

[jostheim]

It's good to see you coming along!

Your assembly for the pump/motor adaption is not the best design as far as withstanding torque. If you've got it adjusted the best you can do it might be wise to have a welder strengthen it up a bit with some steel.

I agree it could be stiffened. My thought was the steel plate moves with the engine as they are tied together so if the engine twists the mount twists, they cannot get out of line. If the pump locks up I think the lovejoy would shear at the plastic interlock before the mount, but who knows…

 

[sean donato]

The ready rod will break before the love joy goes out, even if it spits the damper out.

 

[pdqdl]

Whut's a ready rod?