Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by spike60, Nov 19, 2014.
Okay, the orange handle axes are definitely not the original.
Clarification. You have the original style X27. The other axe in that photo is the super split. This was the predecessor to the x27
The newer style x27 is all black.
Ahhh I see. Wonder how the wedged shape compares to the current X27. Assuming you're only using the Fiskars to split, why would you need a flared edge anyway?
Marketing, it has to "look" like an axe.
I have a wilton sledge hammer at work. "Unbreakable" handle, its held up great over the lastten years.
As for splittin' tools.......X27 and a big orange monster. Everything else's handles seem to only last a season with me.
I never paid much attention to my splitting maul. It was a Christmas gift from my Dad a few years back. I mostly used my TSC power splitter was the reason. Late last winter I found how much I enjoyed splitting by hand and now split more with the maul. I finally got around to seeing exactly what it is today instead of just swinging it!
True value 8lb with 36" wood handle. Has a few scars(mostly from driving t posts) but works well i guess. Ive never used anything else though. These threads having me wondering how another would do better. Not sure the x27 would work well because most of my logs are cut 20" long. I think a 6lb maul might be interesting.
Welcome to the Dark Side
I split rounds that are as long as the X27, 20" shouldn't be an issue unless it's something just hateful that nothing by hand will split. I've had some of those too.
And Black Ash, which is cheating. It just blows apart.
ETA - I have one of the Council Tools 6lb mauls coming. I'm looking forward to trying it out.
After buying the 28 ton Speeco, these don't get used as much now.
Nobody has mentioned log tongs, they are in the last pic. Super to use, even better in the snow.
Here's a link to a Fiskars comparison I did a few years back, with photos of the 'old' and 'new' Fiskars splitting mauls, and a 'Monster Maul' I had.
My nephew has the red monster maul, I think they are junk compared to the orange ones. They both share the same basic pricipals except the orange ones have a longer handle. I am not a tall guy by any means, but I like a longer handle on my splitting tools. Grew up swingin' a orange beast, still own one. But since getting a fiskars it sees very little use. I did happen to use one of CTYanks wetterlings, I was impressed by it. Got a little more mass than a fiskars and a nice contoured head, made the wood pop for sure. Pretty sure the Husqvarna wooden handled splitters share the same design head. What do they weigh bob, and how much are they?
Well here's my gang.
The 2 1/2lb HB
Tongs, felling lever, x25, x27 and my favourite HB 2 1/2. Have a 3 1/4HB somewhere on the property, still trying to remember where it is. The Wetterlings Hickory handle was a steal when Husqvarna offered them, dealer cost up here was $15 and change.
Since I got the X25 the HB is mainly used around the house and for kindling duty, the X25 is my primary splitter, the X27 well just a Christmas present last year, have yet to try it out.
A Wallenstein W520 handles the rest, but most of my wood is split by hand where it falls.
Speaking of, we're still waiting to see the fleet picture from the "connoisseur of maul"....
Thanks for the info. Couldn't imagine what zogger was describing.
The question remains: how is that in any way a problem for splitting wood? IMHO that might be a benefit. The edge would enter the wood progressively (hypothetically) rather than all at once. Or, it would if you could bring the head dead-on to the wood. Which you almost certainly can't, so for either shape it'd be random, and the straight-edge would almost certainly enter one-side-first.
Bottom-line to me: it's a red-herring, much ado about nothing. I'd be way more concerned about fiskars metallurgy- difficulty keeping an edge. Were I ever to buy one. (Fanboy of hickory and quality forge work, here.)
How much does your wetterlings weigh yank?
One design concentrates the impact in a smaller area; the flared design would spread it over a wider area.
It was marketed as 2.5 kg. At ~2.2 lb/kg that's about 5.5 lb. Per visual inspection, it's indistinguishable from Husqy (Hultafors) maul.
From what I saw when you were swinging the various tools, fiskars made cracks in the rounds, but that maul made splits. Did you try my 3 kg Mueller maul, Matt? You'd remember if you did.
Interesting. As I tried to point out above, the opposite would be likely. If it mattered with a large radius of curvature like that. A much smaller radius would more focus the entry work, reducing the "spread". Where would you see the crossover-point? Where increasing curvature goes from worser to gooder effect.
IME edge sharpness and cheek shape near the edge are way more important. As with axes. And quality steel to "hold" an edge.
And now, back to reviewing and commenting on the tools we actually use . . .
Yank the fiskars had the wood just about licked, the strings were holding it together. But that wetterlings did a complete job, made for total seperation. And no I only ised your wetterlings, I've used enough of the cheaper stuff over the years, didn't think it was nessasry to swing them anymore. Still can't believe what the leveraxe did to your foot.
Looks like someone has a thing for sharp things.
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