Whats everyones favorite splitting device?
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I put this head on a nice 36” Beaver Tooth handle and did some work profiling the edge. It works real well for the wood we have here.
I have a Stihl splitting axe that splits softer wood super well, but the handle is really short and it makes things kind of difficult to hit square. Their splitting maul looks really nice, but I can’t bring myself to add another maul when I already have two.
I have a Stihl splitting axe that splits softer wood super well, but the handle is really short and it makes things kind of difficult to hit square. Their splitting maul looks really nice, but I can’t bring myself to add another maul when I already have two.
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you can still buy those brutal 12 pounders
https://www.overstock.com/Home-Gard.../13428064/product.html?opre=1&option=22247585
Can't imagine why you would..............
https://www.overstock.com/Home-Gard.../13428064/product.html?opre=1&option=22247585
Can't imagine why you would..............
That Vulcan is clearly a casting, probably cast steel.
The Sotz one that I mail ordered was flame cut out of a THICK sheet of steel.
Back then, oxy-acetylene cut steel was cheap.
Mine even had a flame cut edge that penetrated the wood.
copen
ArboristSite Member
Wow, kinda pricey these days huh? But what isn't ?
Well ideally the favorite would be a 30ton 2stage splitter. It that lucky. I have an armstrong powered 8lb maul. I use the cheap stuff as shattering handles in southern oaks is common. For the soft stuff I use Grampy's Kelly double bit. Splitting is the good life for me. Prolly need to get my head checked
Wow gggGary I can't believe there still in production
must be so chiropractors have a steady flow of patients.copen
ArboristSite Member
They're actually kinda soft, the older ones. Mine developed teeth along the edge. Don't know how that happened.
Ended up grinding off the edge to about a quarter inch flat and building it back up with 7018 rod. Helped everything but my aim.8 lb. maul with a fiberglass handle. Used to use wood handles, but went through 2 or 3 every winter.
If worse comes to worse I use a 12 lb sledge hammer with a wedge.
If worse comes to worse I use a 12 lb sledge hammer with a wedge.
Early 1980's when i got mine. I expect they had been around a bit longer. I am thinking I ordered it from an ad in a magazine, Mother Earth News.
I had 1 or more of the knock offs, they didn't feel the same as the original Monster. Original felt like it worked a bit better all around to me.
8 pound Task Maul.
cutting ash today.
Has a thinner front section so it can be sharpened many times without having to remove a lot of metal. Handle has a nice rubber protective sleeve above the head to reduce strike damage. I admit it I tend to make T splits so hitting the handle on the unsplit piece in front of my "next" line happens.
Head shape may have changed a little.
cutting ash today.
Has a thinner front section so it can be sharpened many times without having to remove a lot of metal. Handle has a nice rubber protective sleeve above the head to reduce strike damage. I admit it I tend to make T splits so hitting the handle on the unsplit piece in front of my "next" line happens.
Head shape may have changed a little.
sirbuildalot
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have an original Sotz monster maul. They had 4 models. The "lady's maul" weighed 11.5 lbs and had a 8lb head. They also had a 16 lb maul with a 12 lb head, a 24 lb maul with a 20 lb head, and a "professional" model. They are pretty neat, and as was said were often shown in magazines.
I also have an original Chopper1 axe.
I have to admit I prefer my gas powered SuperSplitter though
I also have an original Chopper1 axe.
I have to admit I prefer my gas powered SuperSplitter though
I have been using my helko tomahawk 8 lb maul. It's a bustin Jessie. That head must be made of some pretty impressive steel. I busted rocks steel glass you name it. Never have I ever touched the edge once. Sharp but not too sharp for blunt force trauma.
Fangorn
ArboristSite Lurker
I love my x27. I have split a good amount of (Virginia) white oak with it. It's hard to beat one of those for 60 bucks, guaranteed for life. I have beat the hell out of it and it's still going strong. I also have the big fiskars Maul, and it's pretty solid, too. I like that I can bury it and then sledge the back end of it if I need to.
jjramrod
ArboristSite Operative
If I'm splitting by hand I prefer wedges and my 24 lb sledge one whack most of the time and the wedge shoots through the wood like a bullet. If it isn't straight grained or it's knotty my hydraulic splitter will push right through it.
biggerstaff94
ArboristSite Operative
No idea of the brand but it bangs for 3.5lbs. I have a boring fiberglass 8lb maul for the bad stuff.
I like my Fiskars X-27 for most splitting.Ash,red oak,most wild cherry,and most locust is no problem.I have the big Fiskars maul as well,but I can't remember the model number of it.
biggerstaff94
ArboristSite Operative
Got my $20 Plumb Victory double bit put together with a 36” handle.
jolj
ArboristSite Operative
When I was in school I used a five pound single blade ax, an eight pound hammer & steel wedge for crouch & knotted rounds.
Now that I am no longer ten years old, if I cut more than four pick up loads a year, I would get a splitter & push a button.
Now that I am no longer ten years old, if I cut more than four pick up loads a year, I would get a splitter & push a button.
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