Want to Buy Stihl 028AV or equal

[Okie]

My old 028AV with 16 inch bar and good chain seized up in woodlot yesterday.

Would like to replace with good running equivalent saw that I can use spare parts from this saw as needed, such as the bar and chains.
I'm not that familiar with Stihl saws models that use same parts.

Just know this saw served me well for several years and would like to try and replace it with an equal.
I might try to repair this block later. It turns over with lots of friction. Appears bearing may be seized?

 

[67L36Driver]

Look for an 026 or MS260. Same displacement and 1 1/2 pounds lighter.

Only the bar/chain from your 028 will readily fit.

 

[Okie]

Look for an 026 or MS260. Same displacement and 1 1/2 pounds lighter.

Only the bar/chain from your 028 will readily fit.

026 sounds old. Is it older make model than the 028AV?

Also is the MS260 a later model Stihl?

Thanks for the info!

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

The 028 is not a bad firewood saw. I like the 026 and the MS260. But I'm telling you the 028's have been like an old mule in my book. I've seen some uglier than a mother-in-law in a fuzzy bath robe with no teef -- still running strong. I have an 028 I can part with. PM me for pictures, price and actual cost of shipping to your door via UPS. This saw is no beauty queen but a strong runner.

 

[67L36Driver]

The 026/MS260 replaced the 028 AFAIK.

 

[drf255]

The 026/MS260 replaced the 028 AFAIK.

Yup, pretty much the death nail for the 028. Especially when they introduced the Pro oiler.

Okie,

Pull off your muffler and take a look at your piston

 

[Okie]

Yup, pretty much the death nail for the 028. Especially when they introduced the Pro oiler.

Okie,

Pull off your muffler and take a look at your piston

I looked thru the muffler port and the piston and cylinder looks ok. Not even a scratch.
The flywheel can now be turned with resistance and the feel is like a swelled piston, but don't think it's the piston.
I'm going to pull the flywheel today, and if nothing then maybe the piston jug. I think or suspect this is the old type points saw. I see some numbers STAMPED into the block. Guess these are serial numbers? Are they important for getting correct parts for a 028 AV?
I did not realize how old these 028's are and not sure if I can even get gaskets, etc for repairing. (don't like to go to retail dealers, none are close by and I live in a rural area) Looks like Stihl wants to keep us Stihl users under their retail wing all they can. I glanced at flea bay see pistons, rings, blocks on flea bay, but I don't like to pay high prices for antique vintage stuff and some part looks like China clone stuff..

After reviewing it appears I need to just hump up and get a 026 or a ms260. (appears I can use my bar and chain as a spare for the 260 series.) The saw is mainly used for cutting firewood tree and really don't need bar any longer than 16 inches.
I considered getting another 028AV and could use my old one for spare parts, like carb, etc, but could easily buy another dinosaur bad saw. (kinda need to the compression on a used saw before buying?) I had tested the compression on this saw awhile back while playing with a new Actron compression gauge and it only read 125 max but still started ran good. I was having issues with keeping the muffler tight last year, one of the allen head mounting bolts broke off and the other one would not stay tight, finally got it snugged up good, but may have sucked some dust thru the loose muffler port when the muffler mounting to the block was coming loose.
I'm a mechanic with all kinds of tools but never been deep inside a Chainsaw crankcase. (just automotive and small engines)

I'm doing too much thinking, I smell wood burning.
It's just my block head heating and smoldering.


Any info appreciated?

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Nothing wrong with 028's, the only one i have is an 028 super in very clean condition so i don't really want to sell, did you take off the clutch cover and check the chain brake components and take the clutch drum off and check the clutch drum bearing, and make sure the coil bolts didn't loosen? when you take off stuff just put related in nuts in ziplock or screw back into original hole so they don't get lost or mixed up.

 

[Okie]

Nothing wrong with 028's, the only one i have is an 028 super in very clean condition so i don't really want to sell, did you take off the clutch cover and check the chain brake components and take the clutch drum off and check the clutch drum bearing, and make sure the coil bolts didn't loosen? when you take off stuff just put related in nuts in ziplock or screw back into original hole so they don't get lost or mixed up.

Right about the 028. (has been my favorite woodlot saw for years) Just appears that new parts and pieces are going away, I don't mind working on old stuff when I can find parts without a hassle.
Yes clutch side looks ok. No chain brake stuff on this saw. Sacking the screws and parts in small individual z loc bags.

If that handle is your real name, my last name is Sawyer

 

[Okie]

Got throwed a curve.
Need advice?
Went to shop to take the 028av apart and it's now turning over freely after sitting overnight.
Like I said looking thru the piston port looks ok, no sign of scratches, gouges or piston scraping on the skirt, etc, and cylinder looks ok.
Yesterday before I started using this saw and one other saw I had mixed new 1 gallon batch of Super Tech, 2 cycle oil at closer to 40:1 instead of 50:1 and ran a tank of gas thru the other saw first and about 3/4 tank thru the 028 before it seized. It was in a full bar cut and it was cutting strong when it seized. (when it seized it acted like it just ran out of gas all at once) I did notice that the top of the saws plastic cowling appeared hot when I sit it down to pull the rope to test for turnover. This saw does not have a chainbrake it only has the plastic handguard, the oil pump gears were ok and not seized. The spark plug was white colored indicating a lean mix. The saw had been cutting strong for about 30 minuites into some kinda heavy cuts.
Like I said the muffler last year was coming loose and I was concerned that the saw was sucking dust/dirt during the cut into the muffler port. I got the muffler tightened (with only one mounting screw) and the saw was running great.
I did check the compression awhile back while testing a new actron compression gauge and the compression was 125 but the saw still started easy and ran strong.

The number on the block is 5284XXX if that means anything!

Need some advice, thoughts, etc, before I re-ignite the powerhead????
waiting on replies? Should I now post this problem in the Stihl chainsaw section or???

 

[Brushwacker]

You will need your model # and for some parts may need the serial # on the block. Take your saw with u if buying parts local.
It sure sounds like the piston seizing, but assuming its not could it be a main bearing? May be if u take the sp plug out and turn it over fast, could u hear noise at 1 of the bearings ? When your muffler comes loose it burns hotter because of more air flow creating hotter burning inside + it usually baffles much of the exhaust heat directly back toward the engine, making ideal conditions for seizing and melting things. May need to pull the jug to find the problem. I guess there could of something such as a screw or other piece found its into way to the crank case also ?
I have in my collection of fixer uppers an 028 power head, sounds very similar to yours for vintage. I had got it running but it sounded like it had a bad ignition problem and needed another part or 2 which I believe I since bought or traded for but I never got back to it. It is fairly clean and looks pretty good for its age. I believe the compression is excellent, by the way,I have found compression gauges inconsistent from 1 to the other. 125lbs is borderline on most saws to run and idle consistently well.
If u are interested in my 028 as is 50 to $75 I'd let it go.

 

[Okie]

The Latest:
I checked the compression with the NEW Actron gauge and it's just like it was few weeks ago at 125 psi Max. (several pulls of the rope)
I put enough stuff back on the power head to crank it up. Started easy, runs strong and idles good, no knocking noises runs just like nothing ever happened. I looked close at the piston for any kind of bright mark that might indicate it seized into the cylinder but the piston aluminum skirt and sides is all a normal color with no marks at all.
I checked the high jet a 1 1/4 out and the low at 1 1/8 out.

Yes about compression gauges reading every which way. I have some automotive gauges that will read low on small engines.
Brushwacker: I'll keep your power head in mind.

I have not taken the saw to the wood pile yet, getting rained in.
Yesterday I could not spin the engine over fast to listen for anything it was moving with lots of friction and no scraping noise. I squirted some WD40 inside and on the piston and thru the spark plug hole and no change in friction.

????????????
I started a thread here at this link about the 028 issues:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...d-up-then-later-spins-ok.290338/#post-5664093

 

[huskyslinger]

are you stihl looking for a saw? if you are I have a very low hour 028 like new. it was my wifes dads and he never used it. pm me if you are interested

 

[Okie]

PM sent!

 

[Mwmx54]

Just noticed this thread is old, sorry.