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tuning Question for Stihl 076

woodenbiker

woodenbiker

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I just got done rebuilding my Stihl 076 and I think I have everything dialed in save one thing. at full throtle (no laod) it will rev up stay revved and then die off a bit and the rev up again and repeat. If I leave it at about 90% it is fine.
Any Ideas?

Thanks Chris
 
JHctRednek

JHctRednek

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I think that TS 760 coils are all module type coils Stihl OEM Part No. 1111 400 1301
where as 076 coils are points type Stihl OEM Part No. 1111 400 1303
What does your flywheel look like? If it has the two windows in it you can see if it has points or not.

I am sorry I am not more help, I just have a TS760, 076s are scarce around here and I haven't worked on one.
Have you tried looking at the http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/050-051-075-076-info-thread.169996/ thread? There is alot of good info on there.
 
harrygrey382

harrygrey382

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That carb has a governor jet. Best to fine tune in the wood.
yeah ABSOLUTELY - can't believe it took 8 posts to get this vital bit of info out there! You guys better be a bit more familiar with a saw before giving tuning advice - you could seat the H screw in and it'll still sound way rich, that's because the limiter in the carb dumps fuel into the throat at a certain RPM. If he tuned it like that he could very easily have seized his saw and all on forum advice :(

You have to tune it in the cut, no other way... Which is the best method anyway so not really a problem, just means you can't be lazy. You could just set it at 1 1/4 to be real safe but I'd tune in the cut
 
scallywag

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If the OP used the initial settings in post #2, then opened the high screw until it four stoked.........this is why i said with bar and chain, to at least give it some load.
 
harrygrey382

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If the OP used the initial settings in post #2, then opened the high screw until it four stoked.........this is why i said with bar and chain, to at least give it some load.
ok I see what you're saying, I didn't think of that because that would mean making more than a tad rich - I reckon it would make it un-usably gutless as the limiter comes in fairly low (much lower than a coil limiter, cut off saws excluded). But then I've never actually tried it I've always tuned my 1111s in the cut, and I don't see why he doesn't seeing as there sin't any other option other than the guestimate of factory settings

Or just to simplify this whole thread, richen the H until it stops dropping the revs! Then go buy a tachometer!
that's the point of this thread, you can't tune a 1111 (051/075/076) with a tach at all due to the carb limiter cutting in.
 
wisecobandit

wisecobandit

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Also be aware that these saws run low rpm. Off the top of my head I believe its around 9500 rpm peak so wont rev anything like more modern saws. Even with the governor blocked only around 1000rpm more.
The peak torque is around 7500 so they don't need to scream.
All the original saws ive owned or had in and rebuilt which have had the carb setting stickers say 3/4 on low and 1 on h which differs from the stihl workshop manual. However being in the u.k maybe yours maybe different.
I believe the workshop manual was written for brazil however where heat and humidity is somewhat different to what we are used to.

Whats right or whats wrong im not going to argue but ive always found the sticker settings much closer to the mark than the manual (this is for the tillotsons)
 
harrygrey382

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Hmmm that's strange, I swear I've managed a few with a tach, hell, even did an 090 too
Maybe they had the governer blocked, dunno. I just know the gov kicks in pretty low. 1106 (090/070/contra) you can tune fine with a tach as you can disable the gov or stiffen the vane spring. Manual calls for 11000 rpm tune then set the gov at 8000
 
Eddy_t

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Maybe they had the governer blocked, dunno. I just know the gov kicks in pretty low. 1106 (090/070/contra) you can tune fine with a tach as you can disable the gov or stiffen the vane spring. Manual calls for 11000 rpm tune then set the gov at 8000
That I'm aware of, as I do have the manuals! And no, I had tightened the vane up. But it's difficult to tell with these old saws between a few hundred rpm. The OP would do well to buy a tach
 
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