What I just learned could save you hours of agony, or the life of your expensive saws!

[Erwin]

• If you own a newer version of the Husqvana 372XP, take off that flexy rubber piece off the decompression valve!
  
  
• If you own a newer version of the Echo CS341, plug that little hole on the choke flap!
  

I’ve been running CS341 for years. Matter of fact my very first one from 16 years ago is still in service, a little slower that new, but still good. Trouble started when I bought my 4th one, color changed from grew to red. For years I cannot figure out why it does not like to start like my old ones. It’s been sitting on the shelf most of its life. Last year I tried to switch to Stihl, bought a MS193, then a 201T. The 201T is awesome after the muffler n timing mod. I’m planning to get another one as backup. The 193 did not impress me much at all especially after I got the new Echo CS2511 and I’ll keep it as my 4th backup saw. If you see a hole on the choke flap and you have trouble start “cold” in the morning, plug it and it’ll start like an Echo. I took the flap off the saw, sanded the side facing the air filter, cleaned with acetone and seal it with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. I then grind off a small piece of the filter mounting bracket to clear it.

Similar story with the 372XP. I liked it so much I then bought another one 10 years after. It turned out to an absolute headache. Went into the shop many times during the warranty period and many hours of my own time trying to fugure out what was wrong with this new saw. It turned out that pieces of flexible rubber piece prevent the de-compression valve from closing up and makes the saw impossible to start after the choked pop.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I'm fond of soldering the hole shut. you'll need to absolutely clean all traces of oil and gasoline, etc off of the shutter plate.
Next a light burnishing with something like a scotchbrite pad and then clean and degrease the metal again.
Clamp the plate in a suitable, heat proof setup.
Don't get dirty or oily fingers on the area to be soldered after the last cleaning.

Now a bit of the appropriate flux and some solder along with a high enough wattage soldering gun (I grab my 200 watt gun) and then after a bit of flux application and heating, the solder should flow nicely.
If you don't get a good wetted flow, clean it all off and do your prep work over and make sure you have enough heat to raise the temp of the plate and melt the solder properly.

IF you have any doubts, re-work the job.
Look for and remove any dingle berries too.
We don't want loose metal getting into the engine!


One last thing. You have to be aware of the first burble when the choke is closed. It's now a lot easier to flood your engine.

30~odd years ago, Homelite actually had a service bulletin about drilling a darned hole in the choke slides of the small (ST series) trimmer carbs, due to people flooding them.

 

[Erwin]

The hard to start issue for the newer version husky 372xp is caused by loss of compression due to, either a sticky de-compression valve or the rubber piece holding it open. Solution is to remove a rubber piece AND attach a small wire to the stem of the valve to manually pull it shut after a successful choke attempt. Or u can keep buying new valve and hope finding one that does not stick. Dit not try to liblicate since mine is having that problem new from the factory.