When is a bar actually worn out?

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Tig weld chips if need be or stick and 2.5 electrode on as low amperage as you can. I put a bit of steel beside the chip weld it in and break off the bit of steel and then grind it up. Again with a cut off disk not a grinding disk. Just far far smoother
 
Cut off disk on a 5 inch grinder. Hold it flat so you use the whole side of the disk it's very very smooth. I run the square along and put a pencil mark where 1 rail starts to get higher then keep going until you get to a place where they meet and mark again. Zip zip check zip zip check on and on until its square. Then the cut off disk again for a slight bevel every where its needed.

If the sprocket is a bit warn and the chain is now touching the nose you can carefully lower those rails arouthe nose till the chain is off it again
Sorry. Newbie to bar repair. A bench grinder or a hand angle grinder?. Getting old and my hands are getting a little shaky when trying to do things by hand....
 
How many of you use a belt/disc sander to correct uneven rails? Good idea or no? A file seems to take forever?
That’s how I true mine up. Just like a poor mans bar shop. Bevel the edge on a Bench grinder and then true it up on the disc side of the belt sander.
ive tried hammering rails closed on an anvil, but seems I always find a soft spot and over do it. Or run it one cord and it spreads back where it was. I’ve seen them worn enough it wears out the bottom of the drive links from laying over in the groove.
 
How many of you use a belt/disc sander to correct uneven rails? Good idea or no? A file seems to take forever?
Try a better file. I've never had to spend more than 5-10 minutes to clean up a bar. Easy to take a little more off, but you can't undo taking off too much.
 
I been using a HF 1” x30” belt sander for decades. I squared the table to the belt. The rails come out perfectly square and parallel. I have .063” thick cut off discs for regrooving bars. I’m still thinking about that part. If .050” and .058” thick discs were available I’m golden. Just need some type of wedge to close up the bar groove. You can save some $$ doing bar maintenance.
Cut down on comsumeables.

HF = harbor freight $59 1” x 30” belt sander. Maybe the sander with the 5” or 6” disc would be nice to work the sides of the bars burrs too.
 
It depends on your use, commercial timber falling we’d burn through a least one bar sometimes two a year but we’re running 6 to 8 hours 6 days a week. Now the harvesters it’s 2 bars to 5 chains plus change the sprocket.

For the rail maintenance angle grinder with a flapper wheel works pretty well, is a great question how much is your time worth vs getting or having a new one waiting to run?


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Thanks guys. Ive got lots of time on my hands and dont mind messing around with stuff. I will try a new file....not sure I can get rails perfectly flat at 90 degrees with my ol shaky hands. Its a bar that I have had hung up for a couple years. Couldnt bring myself to trash it. Thought a sander with a flat table might be better and give me an excuse to buy another tool [emoji16]. Will see
 
I just used a mill bastard for years. Then I realized I had a file holder for sharpening ski/snowboard edges. I use that now. It is similar to the one in the pic, or at least it does the same thing. A cleverly cut block of wood would work, I am sure.
 
I've used a flap disc on a grinder to true up bars, then a couple swipes with a file to get it "right". A file clamped to a chunk of 2x4 works as a guide to keep the file square to the bar.
Thanks for all the tips. I tried OM617YOTA suggestion with a file clamped to a small chunk of hardwood.....on an old bar. Worked great. Rails look even and straight. Only took about 10 mins. A little more touch up and a bevel and Im done. Will check chain for fit and give it a try next time I sharpen. Thanks everyone![emoji16]
 
I just used a mill bastard for years. Then I realized I had a file holder for sharpening ski/snowboard edges. I use that now. It is similar to the one in the pic, or at least it does the same thing. A cleverly cut block of wood would work, I am sure.

I've got one of those right angle files and I like it. I have also used a similar file for tuning skis, But the ones I used for skis were made specially for skis and had a slight angle to them so the carving edge would bite better, It was not quite 90 degrees. Might be a good thing to check. (No, there is no skiing in AR, but I lived in Colorado for 22 years)
 
In 50 years of wood cutting I have only thrown away one bar. Few people have cut more wood than I have. With that being said it must be understood that I have more than 10 saws that I use. I have a set of saws for every area that I work. I have a 056 with a 24'' bar that has had the end rebuilt and is still going with 3/8'' 063 chain. Or run the 050 chain to 058 chain to 063. I do not think that I have ever seen a worn out bar only damaged. Thanks
I'm with Ted, I have saws my Dad bought in the 70's that put in 20 years of commercial service, then I used them for another 20+ cutting firewood and milling, no sign of excessive wear. We used nothing but the cheapest KMart 10W30 for bar oil. I still use 10W30 unless bar oil goes on a good sale somewhere. I did cook the bar on my little Echo 305 when the oil line got plugged, and I was up a tree, and was trying to get the last couple limbs off. On the last limb sparks started shooting off the end of the bar. I finished the job. The dead bar was driver error.
 
I've got one of those right angle files and I like it. I have also used a similar file for tuning skis, But the ones I used for skis were made specially for skis and had a slight angle to them so the carving edge would bite better, It was not quite 90 degrees. Might be a good thing to check. (No, there is no skiing in AR, but I lived in Colorado for 22 years)

the other angle is 88 degrees. I use the 90 degree slot.
 

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