084 milling saw .... er, I mean, PROJECT saw

[mtngun]

Update..... the puller showed up, but as I had feared, the flywheel is not cooperating.

I've torqued on the puller as much as I dare, and then torqued quite a bit more.

I've hammered on the puller bolt enough to bend the bolt and mangle the bolt head.

I stuck the whole thing in the oven at 300 degrees F for an hour, hoping the flywheel would expand more than the shaft, but no dice.

As mentioned before, I'd already tried smacking the loose flywheel nut.

Well...... it'll take several weeks for the other parts to trickle in, so I can afford to be patient with this flywheel.

I'm thinking to set the whole assembly in a pan of water, with only the flywheel just barely sticking out of the water, and heat the flywheel with a torch while maintaining pressure with the puller. I dunno if the flywheel can be damaged by heat, but it's got to come off, and the important thing is not to damage the crank or the case.

 

[Mastermind]

If worse comes to worse, you could cut it off...carefully.

 

[Jacob J.]

It could be that a prior technician affixed the flywheel in place with Loctite. I've seen this on many of the bigger saws. Maybe goop it up with some de-bonder or acetone?

 

[blsnelling]

Put a torch on the flywheel and then rap the puller bolt smartly.

 

[luvsaws]

Put a torch on the flywheel and then rap the puller bolt smartly.

:agree2:

 

[mtngun]

It could be that a prior technician affixed the flywheel in place with Loctite. I've seen this on many of the bigger saws. Maybe goop it up with some de-bonder or acetone?

That didn't occur to me, but I suppose it's possible. OK, acetone tomorrow. Acetone should penetrate well if nothing else.

Then torch time. Loctite is supposed to soften with heat, right ?

For now, it is sitting overnight with tension on the puller and lots of kroil.

 

[Zombiechopper]

That didn't occur to me, but I suppose it's possible. OK, acetone tomorrow. Acetone should penetrate well if nothing else.

Then torch time. Loctite is supposed to soften with heat, right ?

For now, it is sitting overnight with tension on the puller and lots of kroil.

yes, loctite loosens with heat. 300F would have been enough if that had been the problem though. I would try a few heating and cool cycles. Oven at 350 or so until soaked to temp then dunk in bucket of water. Acetone + kroil might help too. Last ditch attempt would be to drill a ring of holes around the flywheel, as tightly together as you can close to the crank - this should let the hole open a wee bit ( same principle applies is custom rifle barrels; the bore diameter actually increases slightly when a blank is profiled after being rifled)

 

[mtngun]

Success ! ! !

Finally got it. No one thing did the trick, I just kept doing the kroil/acetone/puller routine and really cranked on the puller until it felt like something was going to break. CRACK ! ! ! ......... and it was loose.

The old 6203 flywheel side bearing. Rrrrruffff ! ! !

The saw appears to have been stored with the crank positioned near TDC. Condensation accumulated in the bottom half of of the crankcase and severely rusted everything down there, but the big end bearing was sitting high enough to escape the worst of it, thank goodness. If it had been sitting at BDC, it would be toast.

 

[smokinj]

That should get some milling work done Nice Work!

 

[Mastermind]

Glad to see it came off in one piece, I had my doubts after a peek at that first bearing. I still can't believe how bad those crank bearings were rusted. Well, it's had now...I'll be looking forward to seeing it go back together.

Thanks for sharing this with us. These bigger saws are of interest to me, I guess it's because I've never been around them before.

 

[super3]

1124 141 8305

These are easy to make

 

[mtngun]

It appears that a common 066/660 filter will work without using any additional gaskets.

As mentioned before, the nuts that secure this orange piece were missing.

Homemade nuts, made from scrap 2024 aluminum. In hindsight, I should have made the nuts taller, like super3's nuts, so the screwdriver slot would clear the studs. As it is, I have to use a narrow blade screwdriver to make the last turn. But ...... they work.

 

[luvsaws]

Very nice

 

[Mastermind]

It appears that a common 066/660 filter will work without using any additional gaskets.

As mentioned before, the nuts that secure this orange piece were missing.

Homemade nuts, made from scrap 2024 aluminum. In hindsight, I should have made the nuts taller, like super3's nuts, so the screwdriver slot would clear the studs. As it is, I have to use a narrow blade screwdriver to make the last turn. But ...... they work.

I'm thinking loctite on those screws for sure. I've seen the effect a nut has on a piston in a Husqvarna 51...it ain't pretty.

Nice work, you guys and those lathes, I'll be wanting one of those next.

 

[Brmorgan]

I'm thinking loctite on those screws for sure. I've seen the effect a nut has on a piston in a Husqvarna 51...it ain't pretty.

Nice work, you guys and those lathes, I'll be wanting one of those next.

Given that they're aluminum, I'd be more inclined to give them a light tap on the side to ovalize the threads ever so slightly. Most of the small 5mm thread X 8mm Stihl nuts are ovalized as well.

 

[mtngun]

Remember the rusty muffler ?

It's cleaned up and painted. Problem is, by the time I got rid of the rust, there wasn't much metal left. It's paper thin in places. It may last a year, if I'm lucky.

I enlarged the exit port.

Pop-up.

I shaved 0.039", leaving a 0.108" top land. The dome is about 1.4 cc. With squish dropped to 0.025", the UCCR will be 9.1:1 vs. 7.8:1 OEM. It should blow about 140 psi vs. 125 psi OEM, at my elevation.

I'd like more PSI but it's not going to happen due to the humongous combustion chamber.

Porting the piston windows.

 

[parrisw]

Looks really good.

With the bigger saws, you don't need as much compression for a good work saw, or so I'm told anyway.

 

[Jacob J.]

Looks really good.

With the bigger saws, you don't need as much compression for a good work saw, or so I'm told anyway.

I agree with this. You're already moving a lot of air in that giant cylinder...

 

[mtngun]

I ground off the lip at the bottom of the lower transfer ports.

There was a big lip at the bottom of the intake port. I ground it off and flattened the floor of the port as best I could, but didn't drop the port any more than what was required to get rid of the lip.

So far, I haven't widened the ports. I could, but bear in mind this will be a milling saw, not race saw. I want to enhance power at 8000 - 10,000 RPM, not 13,000 RPM.

I just now noticed that the intake is not centered on the bore.

That's as far as I got tonight.

The bar, which was supposed to ship separately, still has not arrived. For a while, the seller was saying he had simply forgotten to ship it, but kept promising he would ship it. Today he said he shipped the bar shortly after shipping the saw (2 1/2 weeks ago). He seems to have a hard time keeping his story straight. :censored:

 

[parrisw]

I agree with this. You're already moving a lot of air in that giant cylinder...

Thanks for the backup. Yes there is allot of air going in and out of that big bastid. I don't know how the theory totally works, you'll have to ask TW maybe, he's the one that told me once, he told me what might happen with my 395 with how much compression it has, and well he was totally right.