084 milling saw .... er, I mean, PROJECT saw

[mtngun]

Got this on a long distance CL deal, sight unseen except for some fuzzy photos. The lister was selling it for his dad and didn't know much about it except that it had sat for a long time. Supposedly, he had fired it up recently, though.

This is how it was shipped. No padding whatsoever inside the box. Some people......

But, it somehow survived the journey.

Apparently, the nuts that attach the filter assembly are missing. I'll probably end up fabricating replacements.

There is no fuel line or filter inside the tank. Yet the seller claimed it was running recently, WITHOUT A FUEL LINE ? Also, the pawls on the starter were rusted in place so they wouldn't engage. Easy fix, but don't tell me it was running recently.

The 084 came from the Oregon coast, only 4 miles from the ocean. I'm guessing it was stored in a garage or a tool shed for many years, because there's lots of corrosion. The muffler cover was rusted stuck. Lots of Kroil and some prying finally broke it free......

....... revealing a piston and cylinder in very good shape.

Continued ....

 

[mtngun]

Amazingly, not a hint of a vacuum leak.

Since it passed the leak test, I'll leave the bottom end alone unless some unforeseen problem arises.

The bar was shipped separately, and hasn't arrived yet. They did include an unused Oregon square chisel chain, 0.404 gage, with the links frozen solid in rust.

Well, I could complain about the poor condition, but I won't. The price was low and I was looking for a project saw, anyway.

BTW, this is the "electronic quickstop" model. Is that good or bad ?

Tentative punch list for this project:

-- inspect P&C, set squish, consider pop-up piston

-- definitely a carb kit

-- prolly replace all fuel/vac/vent lines

-- free up the rusted starter assembly

-- clutch bearing (dry as a bone and rusted almost solid)

-- new air filter

-- buy or make nuts to attach filter cover

-- convert bar to .325" if possible, or 3/8" otherwise, and find the appropriate milling chain

 

[StihlyinEly]

Nice. So, nothing really major in the R&R category. As much lumber as I've used in finish carpentry and woodworking over the years, if I lived in white oak country I'd have a very hard time not picking up a saw like this and starting to mill quartersawn white oak.

Looks like you're going to have a lot of fun with it, and it was an obvious lie the seller told. No doubt he didn't expect someone who had real knowledge to buy it.

Why fabricate the missing nuts? Unless you enjoy fabrication.

 

[046]

sure glad internals looks to be fine... some craigslist sellers are bald face liers!

 

[Erick]

If there's that much rust inside and out I'd probably pull the jug and get a good look at the bearings...... as bad as it would suck to have to replace them it would be even worse if you ran it first, tore up some other stuff, and then had to replace them.

15 minutes and $15.00 buys a lot of peace of mind here.

 

[mtngun]

If there's that much rust inside and out I'd probably pull the jug and get a good look at the bearings.

Pulling jug tonight, pics to come.

Not sure about the filter screws, need to find an IPL and see exactly what is missing.

 

[parrisw]

Nice. The center nut is for holding on the air filter cover, should be the thumb screw that also holds on the filter.

 

[jmarheine]

my two cents worth

If I'm not mistaken, "electronic quickstop" refers to two different features: electronic ignition and quickstop chain brake.

I would suggest not putting a .325 chain on that saw. Way too much horsepower. Some may suggest against using 3/8 pitch chain.

 

[little possum]

Nice project :drool: At least a descent starting point.

 

[BobL]

Good score mtngun - I hope it runs OK for you.

If I'm not mistaken, "electronic quickstop" refers to two different features: electronic ignition and quickstop chain brake.

I would suggest not putting a .325 chain on that saw. Way too much horsepower. Some may suggest against using 3/8 pitch chain.

There's plenty of guys in the milling forum running 3/8 on big saws (including me) and at least one running .325 very successfully for a long time even on long bars.

 

[Mastermind]

Nice looking project saw...I have seen much worse and I'm sure you have too. On the bottom end if it feels smooth and has no vac leaks I'd be inclined to run it.

 

[mtngun]

One minor streak on the exhaust side. Rings are stuck in groove, probably due to rust and just sitting idle for years.

Minor scuffing on intake side, prolly sucked a little sawdust. Some wear high up on skirt. Bottom of skirts measured 59.91mm - 59.94mm, top of skirt 59.86mm with wear mostly on intake side. A 0.003" feeler gage will barely fit between skirt and cylinder wall.

Paint was peeling from inside crankcase. I think the seller squirted some kind of cleaner in, it may have damaged the paint. The red stuff on the counterweights is rust. Looks like the bottom end will have to come apart if for no other reason than because it is filthy ! ! ! Good call, Erick.

After wiping my finger across counterweight -- gritty rust !

Small end and big end bearings seem OK and relatively free of rust. Not sure about crank bearings

Cylinder looks great. Plating seems to go all the way to the top.

Other specs:

13 CC ZSCV
0.037" - 0.039" squish (as best I could measure thru the plug hole)
80 mm con rod length
25 mm piston deck height
47 mm piston overall height
3.4 mm (0.135") top land
7.8:1 UCCR ..... huge, huge combustion chamber

There is a typo on the port map -- height of exhaust port is actually 17.3 mm, not 11.7.

As you can see on the port map, the intake port has a partial bridge. Does anyone know what that bridge does, because there is no ring locating pin at that spot. ? ? ?

I didn't bother with a degree wheel, but now I wish I had, because these port map calculations are weird. Maybe it's just because it's late at night and I'm tired and made some goofy error, but I ran the numbers through two different timing calculators and both gave the same results.

167 degrees exhaust duration (Stihl really likes that radical exhaust timing)
133 degrees intake duration ? ? ? huh
21 degrees blowdown

I'm thinking a pop-up piston is needed to compensate for the humongous combustion chamber. Even with a pop-up, UCCR will only be about 9.5:1, which is fine for a milling saw.

 

[Brmorgan]

I'll trade your HD filter assembly for my old-style one! I just got affirmation from my dealer today that the HD filter mount and cover plate are NLA, and my dealer can often get parts that a lot of you folks on here claim cannot be gotten, so they must be hard to find.

Hope you don't have to sink too much money into that saw. You'll be happy with it once you get it all back together, though! I just wish I had some big wood and a longer bar to really put mine through its paces.

 

[Jacob J.]

Yeah, Stihl is trying to phase the 084 out in short order...

That's one ugly project. That's exactly why I don't do mail order with anyone on Craigslist. I'm sure you'll make it into a good runner though.

 

[Mastermind]

It's a shame to see a tool in that shape...I never would have thought about it being that nasty inside the crankcase...but that's what keeps me coming back, the fact that I don't know crap, and have the opportunity to learn here. Thanks for the posts...I still think it's a great project.

 

[Showme]

I saw a really perfect one sell on CL in St. Louis yesterday. They ask $800, I have no idea what they got but it was really a nice saw. I just couldn't justify a saw that big for my uses.

 

[Brmorgan]

I saw a really perfect one sell on CL in St. Louis yesterday. They ask $800, I have no idea what they got but it was really a nice saw. I just couldn't justify a saw that big for my uses.

You haven't been 'round here long enough... Justification for big saws is not a requirement! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Erick]

Pulling jug tonight, pics to come.

Surprise!!.

Not sure about the filter screws, need to find an IPL and see exactly what is missing.

1124 141 8305

 

[Hddnis]

I don't know what you have into it so far but it looks to me like you'll be able to make a good runner out of it with mostly sweat equity. Guess that will depend a little on the extent of rust in the bottom end, but we'll stay hopeful for you.





Mr. HE

 

[Erick]

Paint was peeling from inside crankcase. I think the seller squirted some kind of cleaner in, it may have damaged the paint. The red stuff on the counterweights is rust. Looks like the bottom end will have to come apart if for no other reason than because it is filthy ! ! ! Good call, Erick.

After wiping my finger across counterweight -- gritty rust !

Small end and big end bearings seem OK and relatively free of rust. Not sure about crank bearings.

I don't know that splitting the cases is warranted yet (unless you do this kind of work and have the tools???) I'd probably just pull the seals and flush everything out really well . Check to make sure the bearings are smooth and tight, and assemble with new seals and gaskets. Should make for a real nice milling saw.


BTW Seal and gasket set.... 1124 007 1050 much cheaper than buying them individual.