How much can a 16" bar really cut?

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PLMCRZY

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Put a add on the internet about taking trees down or even limbing them. Few responses i got were "16" should only cut 5" limbs i wouldnt do much more then limb with it" or "Way to small of a saw to cut any tree down".

Now i may not know a helluva lot about these saws but i just took down a 8" mesquite quite easily. I would not be scared at all to put it thru a 18" oak or something bigger. Most of the trees around here are about 5-12 in diameter. I would think my 16" bar would be more then capable of taking down those trees.

Now i know not to take a 16" saw to take down a big red wood or something. But i would think this saw is more then enough for around here.
 
You could cut a 30" or so tree down with a 16" bar without a whole lot of hassle. Over that and you'd be cutting blocks out to get the saw into.
 
I run a Stihl 024 with a 16" bar, I prefer it on anything 12" and under, but if it is in my hands already running and my bigger saw is several steps away and I have an under 20" cut to handle I just keep with my 16" 024.
 
Put a add on the internet about taking trees down or even limbing them. Few responses i got were "16" should only cut 5" limbs i wouldnt do much more then limb with it" or "Way to small of a saw to cut any tree down".

Now i may not know a helluva lot about these saws but i just took down a 8" mesquite quite easily. I would not be scared at all to put it thru a 18" oak or something bigger. Most of the trees around here are about 5-12 in diameter. I would think my 16" bar would be more then capable of taking down those trees.

Now i know not to take a 16" saw to take down a big red wood or something. But i would think this saw is more then enough for around here.

You can fell a tree 2 1/2 times the bar length (40" in this case), but only when the conditions are right, meaning either a slight front-leaner, slight side-leaner, or at least a neutral tree, that you can cut a huge notch in, and "bore" out the centre of the tree, through that notch.

Bucking is another story, 180% of bar length is about the sensible limit. The same goes for felling, unless you are an expert - but at least you need to know how to use wedges properly.

If you don't know how to use wedges - stay within the bar length, or preferably don't fell trees at all!
 
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You can fell a tree 2 1/2 times the bar length (40" in this case), but only when the conditions are right, meaning either a front-leaner or at least a neutral tree, that you can cut a huge notch in, and "bore" out the centre of the tree, through that notch.

Bucking is another story, 180% of bar length is about the sensible limit.
:agree2: However, for cutting bigger wood, a bigger saw and bar are best.
 
I dropped a pine and a gum in the 38" range with a 16" bar on my 38cc McCulloch 2316AV. That's just a Poulanesque homeowner saw. Great little saw for what it is. They took some work but ended up falling over :)
 
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I would say 2 times the length is the max. you could cut down a 60'' tree with a 16'' bar but it would take you 3 weeks. my personal opinion is 2x the length of the usable bar and you can do it safely and somewhat efficiantly.
 
Little saw, big tree, big saw, really big tree, it's all the same.

302 with 14" on Tanoak.

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I would say 2 times the length is the max. you could cut down a 60'' tree with a 16'' bar but it would take you 3 weeks. my personal opinion is 2x the length of the usable bar and you can do it safely and somewhat efficiantly.

"Usable bar" are the key words in your post - as that usually will be less than "called" length! :cheers:
 
I have dropped honest 16" trees. Depending on how much bell is at the base of the tree, I have dropped them higher up where the tree is a bit smaller, then go back and cut the stump off at ground level.
 
"Usable bar" are the key words in your post - as that usually will be less than "called" length! :cheers:

Exactly right Poppa Troll :cheers:
As an example this is the usable bar length on some of my saws at the moment (measured from tip of spikes):

390XP: 24" bar - usable 21.6" (GB Pro Top)
7901: 20" bar - usable 18.1" (GB Pro Top)
5100-S: 17.5" bar (64DL) - usable 16.3" (Factory Laminated - tough little bar!)
3120: 44" bar - usable 40" (GB Ti Orange)

I've fallen for the old "wow that 24" bar made it half way through, must be a 48" tree" only to realise it was only 43" odd later on :(
 
Little saw, big tree, big saw, really big tree, it's all the same.

Good job on the tree :cheers: Yup, big tree or small tree, felling principles are the same no matter how big the saw.

Hey why did you cut down that sized tree with that saw? I love it :D
 
It was part of my formal training, I did a great deal of small/medium saw work on larger trees, it prepared me for using heavy saws on big timber.
 
Hope you got insurance...

Gary

Either that or you limit yourself to safe drops in areas free of buildings or other important stuff...


As for OP, I made a ton of cash with a Stilh 011(16") and Homelite 192Classic (10") when I was a kid. Pruning, removals, storm cleanup. You can do it with a CS370, but it won't be fast. But maybe it doesn't need to be.
 
I cut firewood for about 20 years with a Husqvarna 266SE with a 16" bar and only run into one very big red oak I had to leave a 15' section behind.Well it's still out in my woods,think I will see how a 28" bar will work on it.
 
It was part of my formal training, I did a great deal of small/medium saw work on larger trees, it prepared me for using heavy saws on big timber.

Good stuff. A lot harder to get angles correct with a small saw and bar than a larger saw and larger bar :cheers: I wish we had courses like that in our area. I'm still thinking of heading down the South East of Australia to do more forestry type training (forestry in my region is a big fat ZERO). Done a bit but would love to get taught by guys actually in the industry.
 
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