Homelite Chainsaws

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I will need an IPL for the recent acquisitions as well. 330 and 200 classic back a couple posts.


The 330 needs a clutch cover that don't seem to be on that big auction site, if anyone has one laying around...

brian i have a 330 side bar cover

brand new with the 330 decal on it i erased your email cause i know how those robots that send spam mail out likes email addresses

i will put the parts lists with the package if needed
 
brian i have a 330 side bar cover

brand new with the 330 decal on it i erased your email cause i know how those robots that send spam mail out likes email addresses

i will put the parts lists with the package if needed

I can't find it on your website. PM me with the price please. Can you email me a picture?

[email protected]

Don't worry about spam. I have a super spam eater so I hardly get any.
 
two days, no posts

Since I had it loaded up, I thought I'd drop by and post a pic.

600DOutside.jpg



I want to see this thread in the top three on a consistant basis, or I will post McCulloch pics here, until the earth looks flat.
 
Since I had it loaded up, I thought I'd drop by and post a pic.



I want to see this thread in the top three on a consistant basis, or I will post McCulloch pics here, until the earth looks flat.

Nice. That's your 600D isn't it? My EZ has the same full wrap bar with the green grip. Dig the RN bar.:cheers:


I will fly the flag here Randy - here is my 750E, fitted with a NOS 43" sprocket nose bar. She is a nice old saw, with plenty of go.

Regards,

Chris.

Fantastic 750E Chris. Serious Homelite Muscle.
 
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Here's one I've been sitting on for awhile--Super XP1020 Auto. Just about the best compression of any saw I have. And, other than the paint, it is very good shape. Just missing the muffler shield and a serial tag. If anyone has the starter cover with a tag for the Super XP1020 Auto, I'd love to have it.

Chris B.

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Here's the 1020 cover I have, late version with Auto oiler. The adjuster is incorrect but functional.

attachment.php
 
Here's one I've been sitting on for awhile--Super XP1020 Auto. Just about the best compression of any saw I have. And, other than the paint, it is very good shape. Just missing the muffler shield and a serial tag. If anyone has the starter cover with a tag for the Super XP1020 Auto, I'd love to have it.

Chris B.

Here's the 1020 cover I have, late version with Auto oiler. The adjuster is incorrect but functional.

Cool old saw Chris. Paint looks better than mine. Somebody painted it black over the original paint (although the black may well come off). Didn't even realize that it had been repainted until I scrubbe it off. It was FILTHY!. My piston is scored as well. If the jug is salvageable, I'll probably try one of those pistons from the 'Greek' guy, unless I can score an NOS piston for a reasonable amount. Same if I end up buying somebody's used jug. If I have to pony up for an NOS cylinder, then I'll splurge for an NOS piston too. My saw's missing the muffler shield too. Also, the full wrap bar's a bit bent/dented and worn on the bottom-left side. Didn't realize that either until I cut off the rotting foam/rubber hose that was covering it.....

I'm missing the Serial/Model # plate for my XP1020 as well. The feebay sellers seem to all be removing the plates from the flywheel covers before putting the covers up for sale. Hope somebody here can help us. Glad (or maybe sorry) to see I'm not the only one in this predicament...:bang:

Will that 1020A cover work on my non-auto oiler XP1020? My current cover has the extended lower front section with the cutout that sits on the full wrap bar. I noticed in my IPL that there were different covers for the Auto and non-Auto 1020's. Looks like the cover on your auto works just fine with your full wrap. Your spare cover looks good enough for my uses. I can use the adjuster hardware from my cracked cover. I'll dig out my C91 cover and shoot some pics as soon as my wife gets home and I'm off babysitting duty.
 
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So now I'm shopping for a Walbro SDC-8 carb rebuild kit, reed cage gaskets, and the Homelite official formed fuel line. And maybe all of the air filter bits. I'll get the saw running and then see if the automatic oiler needs help.

I haven't checked out this thread for a while, so I just read about your little XL. Pretty saw, I have one of the blue ones too, that a friend gave me. Put a shot of mix down the carb and it fired right up.

How's progress going on yours?

Keep an eye on ebay for the carb. I stripped a screw out on the top plate of the SDC on my Super 1050 Auto. It started to lean out, and not knowing any better at the time, I kept cutting. Bad move, I melted the piston. Anyway, with all of the other NOS parts I've bought to fix my screw up, I found an NOS SDC for 25 bucks. I think the rebuild kits I've seen were about 15 bucks, so I jumped on the buy it now button. Good luck on your saw, Joe.
 
Hi rarefish383,

I think you meant to quote me:
steven1955 said:
So now I'm shopping for a Walbro SDC-8 carb rebuild kit, reed cage gaskets, and the Homelite official formed fuel line. And maybe all of the air filter bits. I'll get the saw running and then see if the automatic oiler needs help.
My friend never found (maybe never looked for) the air filter bits, but I was able to find a black air filter cover and a cleanable used filter from a local guy that used to repair Homelites for Claymont Hardware in Claymont, Delaware.

Last night I put in a parts request at CM Small Engines for the carb rebuild kit, reed cage gasket, and the formed fuel line. (Maybe they were on the web site, but I couldn't find them. Maybe I was just blind again.) They're all on eBay but I'd rather support a site sponsor.

I was thinking of taking the saw all apart for cleaning, but then I thought "if it's ain't broke don't fix it", so instead I'm doing a semi-thorough external cleaning. There's a lot of oily sawdust on the cooling fins, but WD-40 and lots of paper towels and Q Tips is cleaning that stuff off pretty well.

I'll have new pictures later as I make more progress.
 
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So now I'm shopping for a Walbro SDC-8 carb rebuild kit, reed cage gaskets, and the Homelite official formed fuel line. And maybe all of the air filter bits. I'll get the saw running and then see if the automatic oiler needs help.

I haven't checked out this thread for a while, so I just read about your little XL. Pretty saw, I have one of the blue ones too, that a friend gave me. Put a shot of mix down the carb and it fired right up.

How's progress going on yours?

Keep an eye on ebay for the carb. I stripped a screw out on the top plate of the SDC on my Super 1050 Auto. It started to lean out, and not knowing any better at the time, I kept cutting. Bad move, I melted the piston. Anyway, with all of the other NOS parts I've bought to fix my screw up, I found an NOS SDC for 25 bucks. I think the rebuild kits I've seen were about 15 bucks, so I jumped on the buy it now button. Good luck on your saw, Joe.

The kit you want is K10-SDC.
 
Here's the 1020 cover I have, late version with Auto oiler. The adjuster is incorrect but functional.

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Well Chris, I found the C91 cover. Didn't take a pic yet as it was dark by the time I located the correct box. Sadly, it's not in as good of condition as I remember it. I think I was thinking of another cover that I sent to someone else a couple of years ago. Mind like a steel trap. Rusty........:monkey:


This one is missing the paint from much of the corners and edges. The "I" in "Direct Drive" is all but gone (as is half of the first "D"). There's a thin crack that runs from the top of the opening behind the rear bar nut up between "Direct" and "Drive". Some knucklehead ran the saw with hardware store nuts without washers (guessing here) as the cover's pretty eaten up in the 'nut areas'. It does look better than the cover on that ebay 'parts' C91 though...

I can shoot some pics for you still if you'd like as it is a useable cover, but it's not a restoration part, unless you want to weld the crack, clean up the 'nut areas', and repaint the cover. It does still have the adjuster hardware. If you want it, it's yours for the cost of shipping. I am still interested in your XP1020A cover, whether or not you're interested in my C91 cover. Let me know what you want for it.

Got my freebee Super XL12 running. Flushed the tank, refilled, spritzed some mix down the throat, and she cranked right up. Sprayed some NASTY oil fog and drool outa the muffler for a minute or so, then cleared right up. Now it just needs some scrubbing to get rid of the scuz and 'white death' for it to join the working fleet. Another runner! Closer examination reveals a nice fresh (and reasonably sharp) loop of SQUARE CHISEL Oregon chain on the 16" Windsor sprocket-tip. Wasn't expecting to see that on an SXL12. By the looks of things, the owner put on a new loop of chain, made a few cuts, then put the saw away. There were some serious chips (not dust) sitting on top of the filter element.

As a disgusting side note..............I think I've figured out why an otherwise well cared for and pristine saw has some serious white death (mag corrosion) issues.........................the damn thing smells like dog piss (as did my hands after handling the saw). Somebody's bastard pooch pissed on the saw at some point, and white death ensued (and only in certain areas of the saw). Flushed it off good yesterday....
 
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SLXA Fuel Tank Cap Question

Are all Homelite SLXA fuel tank caps supposed to have duckbill valves?

My cap does not. Here's a pic:
FuelCap1.jpg

(Ignore the aluminum "tube" for the moment.)

At first I thought my cap, being from an early saw, just had a small diameter vent passage and no duckbill.

My cap has a small diameter passage drilled in from the right edge of the cap as pictured to the center of the cap. That passage is plugged at the edge, but there is a second small drilled hole seen in the picture that intersects the first passage. The net result is a vent.

I was shown a different fuel tank cap with a sintered metal filter pressed into the edge of the cap with a duckbill under the sintered filter. So at first I just thought my cap had no duckbill.

Then I found the aluminum tube loose in the tank. Upon closer inspection I found it to be a perfect fit in a recess in the center of the cap.
IMGP4493.jpg


So now I'm wondering...
1. Does the tube belong in the recess?
2. Could it be a retainer for a duckbill?

So, so if anyone's fuel tank cap looks like mine talk to me about vents, duckbills, and short pieces of aluminum tube. Thnx.
 
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