why all the short bars on saws in this site ?

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sunfish

sunfish

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I guess I need to find a longer bar.:monkey:

<a href="http://s842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/sawnami/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_1337.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/sawnami/IMG_1337.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Yeah, you can't do that with that short bar. lol ;) :hmm3grin2orange:
 
minnnt

minnnt

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Surely the length of the bar is determined by the needs of the job/person? The weight and balance would be a big thing for me, having to cut from either side wouldn't bother me. Maybe it would be different though if i had a 660 or 395xp :biggrinbounce2:
 

2yb3

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Yes indeed. You could never cut a tree unless your bar is at least as long as it is wide. Besides, I could never handle anything bigger than my third leg! :blush:

i dont see the other 13ish feet of bar lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n6ccZWvdRE&feature=related video of a member on here, also i know your joking jred lol

also yes we have hardwoods here not alot, but we have/ use to have cottonwoods thatll dwarf almost anything those eastern hardwood boys have
 
little possum

little possum

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attachment.php


Why the short bars? Cause not everybody needs one of these :D
 
fields_mj

fields_mj

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I run 18's because they will cut most of my firewood pretty quick. With a 9 pin rim, and a .325 chain, I really enjoy using my 036.

The 064 came with a 28" bar. I've thought about dropping down to a 24", but I cut my firewood 24" long, and that 28" bar reaches through them to noodle very nicely, so I've decided to stay with it. It is a heavy combination for me to lug around though. I do most of the cutting and clean up with the other two saws first, and then use the 064 where it is needed. I've used the 064 to do a little limbing, but I don't care for it that much. Most of the limbs are small enough that the .404 chain really grabs them and yanks on them pretty bad makeing it tough to cut out on the end of the bar. I'll stick to the 024 for most of that.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 
Cedarkerf

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Whats the definition of a short bar. Bar length relative to saw, relative to tree size, relative to man hood. Is a 41" bar overly long for 60" wood? 28 for 44" 32 for 45".
Yup to compensate for big wood.



Something people with short bars like to say.

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This is how I use my 046:

28" windsor bar, full skip square ground chain, 44" maple.

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wigglesworth

wigglesworth

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Most everything I cut is in the 20" to 28" diameter range. I can get by very easily with a 24" bar, being my longest bar. However, I do occasionally sport a 28".

Big wood + Big bars = big backace. :cry:
 
Mike Williams

Mike Williams

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The guys in Michigan had the same theory. "Longer bar, less bending". But when standing in a fence row in southwest Missouri, anything over 20" just makes more hardware to hold over your head... This, is the best site I've ever stumbled across by the way...

Welcome to AS. There is a lot of good info on this site and the people ain't half bad either :)
 
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Jonsered2095

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Jonsered2095

Jonsered2095

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Whats the definition of a short bar. Bar length relative to saw, relative to tree size, relative to man hood.

Relative to tree size (in my book). Manhood optional! :D

Is a 41" bar overly long for 60" wood? 28 for 44" 32 for 45".

No. What length is the cannon on what size tree? Looks close to same size. Nothing wrong with that either of course. :cheers:
 
logbutcher

logbutcher

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When you are standing next to an oak/maple/ash/birch/elm/popple waiting to be limbed and bucked, up to your nutz in snow (literally), you'll know why 20" is the most common logging bar around here.

Snow and ice change the game. You aren't walking to gracefully on ice covered timber with broad limbs, most limbing is standing on the ground.

Less cost, Less weight, less teeth to sharpen, less chance of throwing a chain, less chain to stick in the snow and hit rocks/dirt/ice with(hot chain can temper in the snow and ice), less bar and chain smaller area needs to be stamped down around the base of the tree to drop it (falling cuts are made low), cut fast in northern hardwoods coupled with a 70cc saw. I am out of breath.

In short, weather conditions/terrain/type and size of timber dictate the bar you'll use.

That's all there is for midwest, northeast, northern cutting. Big difference working in ice and snow from nice soft ground....! :agree2:

Most eastern trees are well under 24" DBH. The reasons that we use 16" to
20" bars is obvious. Besides, if you can't fell a 30" with a 16" bar, when needed, then you need some basic saw instruction. Very basic. :monkey:
No need to horse around a 28" bar all day when most of the work is less than 24" DBH.

Then again, the body gets worn some bad after a few years of abuse; shorter bars make for an easier day. You'll discover that you &^%$#@ . :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
MAD MAX

MAD MAX

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Lapine ore
looking at chainsaw forum seems like 20 inch is longest a lot run ,around here loggers all run 28 32 or 36 ,i run 28 ,seems like would have to bend over to cut the wood more with short bar with my 28 can stand up and cut firewood and easier on the back seems with longer bar ,any input on the short ones here ?

Remember where your from, Some of the biggest timber in the world is in your neck of the woods. Their are D-fir that top 8 ftin dia.Most folks have never seen a tree like that
 

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