why all the short bars on saws in this site ?

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Trx250r180

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looking at chainsaw forum seems like 20 inch is longest a lot run ,around here loggers all run 28 32 or 36 ,i run 28 ,seems like would have to bend over to cut the wood more with short bar with my 28 can stand up and cut firewood and easier on the back seems with longer bar ,any input on the short ones here ?
 
A good number of the people on here are from the north east, here the trees generally aren't that large, particularly those that people elect to cut for firewood.

Most people who need to cut the larger trees have longer bars, but maybe do not use them unless necessary.

Mid range 70cc saws tend to balance better with 20" bars than 28"s and 32"s so there's not too much reason to lug it unless you need it...
 
In the mid-west and east there is very little timber (hardwoods) that you need over a 25" bar for. I cut mainly oak and hickory and seldom use anything longer than a 20", run 18"'s most of the time, even on the 044. You would understand after a day in the woods here. Not much old growth hardwoods here anymore, the railroad tie cutters have cleared most of it out.
 
I dont bother too much with it if its bigger than 3' diameter and even then its mostly in the 2' range so no real need for a bar that big. biggest bar I own is a 20" most of the ones I use daily are 18'' and 16''.
 
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when i fall a tree the longer bar seems nicer for limbing i can just walk down the tree and limb away ,i have a 20 on my little 026 ,run 28 on the 036 feels a little noseheavy on that saw ,on the 044 size saw pivots real nice off handle with the 28 ,a 32 seems like may even be better on the 044 for the limbing ,thats what most guys run on 44-46 size saws around here our trees are 14-30 inch avg though
 
looking at chainsaw forum seems like 20 inch is longest a lot run ,around here loggers all run 28 32 or 36 ,i run 28 ,seems like would have to bend over to cut the wood more with short bar with my 28 can stand up and cut firewood and easier on the back seems with longer bar ,any input on the short ones here ?

If your back is the reason you run a longer bar and you don't bend over as much; then what you really need is a bowsaw.
Igpoe:cheers:
 
looking at chainsaw forum seems like 20 inch is longest a lot run ,around here loggers all run 28 32 or 36 ,i run 28 ,seems like would have to bend over to cut the wood more with short bar with my 28 can stand up and cut firewood and easier on the back seems with longer bar ,any input on the short ones here ?

That's funny because 28" seems short to me.
 
Also the hardness/density of the timber has a lot to do with bar/chain selection.

Here a mid 60cc saw can only handle up to a 20" bar in hard as nails Box (eucalyptus albens, eucalyptus melliodora) and even then it can bog in larger logs/trees.
A 75-80cc saw is maxed out at 28-30", maybe 32" for a Dolly 7900 in Red Gum but 30" is about the comfortable limit in Box.
Longer bars need a 660/390 or larger.
 
In the mid-west and east there is very little timber (hardwoods) that you need over a 25" bar for. I cut mainly oak and hickory and seldom use anything longer than a 20", run 18"'s most of the time, even on the 044. You would understand after a day in the woods here. Not much old growth hardwoods here anymore, the railroad tie cutters have cleared most of it out.

Same.

I have longer bars but they get little use because there's no need. 16-20" handles most things I need and my saws seem happier with them.
 
when i fall a tree the longer bar seems nicer for limbing i can just walk down the tree and limb away ,i have a 20 on my little 026 ,run 28 on the 036 feels a little noseheavy on that saw ,on the 044 size saw pivots real nice off handle with the 28 ,a 32 seems like may even be better on the 044 for the limbing ,thats what most guys run on 44-46 size saws around here our trees are 14-30 inch avg though

I'd like to see you walk down a pin oak and limb it lol.
 
The biggest I ever use is 28" and only at work when I'm cutting big trees all day. When I'm cutting trees for firewood I run a ,20" on my 361.
I like a bar big enough for my needs but not more than I need. I can drop most anything I have to cut with a 660 and a 25" bar. I use the 28" sometimes but not too much though I think I am going to go to the 28" exclusively as I like the balance better with it on my 660.
 
I'd like to see you walk down a pin oak and limb it lol.

all we have here in northwest ,mostly doug fir ,hemlock and alder and maple ,cant say ive ever limbed or cut oak yet ,woods pretty soft here so longer bars dont lose power like in a harder wood ,plus gabe prolly laugh me if saw little bar on my saw
 
The guys in Michigan had the same theory. "Longer bar, less bending". But when standing in a fence row in southwest Missouri, anything over 20" just makes more hardware to hold over your head... This, is the best site I've ever stumbled across by the way...

Welcome to Arboristsite. Lots of information to be had here. I wouldnt want to hold a large chainsaw over my head. Good way to get seriously hurt. Especially from kickback potential.
 
No, no, no, you guys are all wrong... It's because we don't use big bars to compensate for anything. Unlike those PNW guys... :laugh::laugh:
 
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