Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
Count me in as too lazy to take out the plug....
I believe that ignition timing is right when it allows the combustion pressure to be near max as the rod and crank pass through perpendicularity
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Those who cannot remember the past are doomed to repeat it!!!
It is amazing that you didn't learn the lesson from the first go around!!!!!
The crank cannot be near BDC or TDC. Those are the points at which the crank has the most leverage over the rod. I explained it back then. TW explained it today!!!!
You totally threw the saw under the bus, then it was shown that it was you that was in error, not the engineers at Stihl. You were wrong then, and you were wrong again today. The man above gave you two ears and two eyes and only one mouth for a reason.
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Nice post TW. I believe that ignition timing is right when it allows the combustion pressure to be near max as the rod and crank pass through perpendicularity.
P.S. I have used an impact for years and never had a problem. The impact wrench was turned well down though.
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:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Those who cannot remember the past are doomed to repeat it!!!
It is amazing that you didn't learn the lesson from the first go around!!!!!
The crank cannot be near BDC or TDC. Those are the points at which the crank has the most leverage over the rod. I explained it back then. TW explained it today!!!!
You totally threw the saw under the bus, then it was shown that it was you that was in error, not the engineers at Stihl. You were wrong then, and you were wrong again today. The man above gave you two ears and two eyes and only one mouth for a reason.
Wow, this is way more input than I'm able to digest right now. I'm still somewhat of a newbie with chainsaws.
Just ordered the right piston stop from the Stihl dealer. Still have to take the engine apart more to look at the rod, let's hope it's not bent.
The reason for the 25:1 was that I told my wife the wrong gas can and she used the milling gas for her little 180. We usually ran 40:1 because my Poulan runs better on it and we used the same mix for both saws. Would the 50:1 per manufacturer be better?
Somebody mentioned that he runs only synthetic oil in his mix would that be the same as I run in my car? I know they sell specific synthetic for saws but I don't know what the differenceis or if there is one.
What is with you? You cop these attitudes out of the blue? You had a problem with it when I didn't go by the book and broke the saw, and now that I'm promoting doing it by the book, you still have a problem with it:bang: All I'm saying is that I won't use any other method than Stihl recommends on these little saws.
No attitude whatsoever. You said the piston needed to be near TDC. That is a mistake. I have a problem with misinformation. Do you see me say something to you when your facts are straight???
What leaves the piston closest to TDC, a typical stuffing of rope, or a plastic piston stop may 1/4" thick?
People always seem to forget that the oil in 2 cycle mix burns with the fuel. Sure it changes the air fuel ratio, but how much and in what way is over my head, but simply thinking it's linear is incorrect.
With that said 25:1 is too much with good oil. I run 32:1 in every saw I own without any issues.
Define "typical stuffing of rope" please.
My OEM Stihl piston stop is much thicker than .25"
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Right there's another reason to only use the right tool. No way to know you have it where it should be.
People always seem to forget that the oil in 2 cycle mix burns with the fuel. Sure it changes the air fuel ratio, but how much and in what way is over my head, but simply thinking it's linear is incorrect.
With that said 25:1 is too much with good oil. I run 32:1 in every saw I own without any issues.
Yes with a good syn oil 32:1 is more than enough oil for milling and the 076. Make sure to tune the saw rich when milling, this goes for any saw with any oil ratio.
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