Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does anybody have any experience running a narrow kerf 20" bar set-up?
Bailey's - ArborPro 20" Narrow Kerf Bar & Chain Combo
Bailey's - ArborPro 20" Narrow Kerf Bar & Chain Combo
Yeah, I've got a 15" and 18" bar, but on some of the logs I'm cutting the 20" could save me some work.
Jtheo, is that a Husky 20" bar that you are running?
Bailey's - Husqvarna 20" Narrow Kerf Pixel Chainsaw Bar
I have run the Oregon/Husqvarna NK stuff and like it on the smaller saws. I never noticed the bar flexing much and the 95VP chain is good, stays sharp.
I have not tried the WP/Carlton at all but my feelings anymore on the Carlton is I wouldn't be too much in a hurry to buy any of it.
I have my Makita 520 DCS 520 set up this way for better limbing with 8 pin rim, seems
OK so far.
I was a little concerned about running NK chain on a 50cc. class saw after reading
95VP page in the Oregon Maintenance Manual, recommended up to 45 cc,
but it looks like some 50cc. saws come with NK new.
I have my Makita 520 DCS 520 set up this way for better limbing with 8 pin rim, seems
OK so far.
I was a little concerned about running NK chain on a 50cc. class saw after reading
95VP page in the Oregon Maintenance Manual, recommended up to 45 cc,
but it looks like some 50cc. saws come with NK new.
Some other thoughts, when I looked at the Oregon webpage some time ago it indicated that chains with the 'X' designation had more chrome on the cutter. That piqued my interest as all I cut is dirty wood. However, the local Oz rep told me that there wasn't any extra chrome, but that they had changed the angles on the 95VPX.
OK, maybe that explains why it is alleged (advertising hype?) that the VPX cuts up to 15% faster. However, when I looked at the page on sharpening - the angles were the same -???
Perhaps it may have something to do with the heel of the cutter. Maybe it has been shortened to allow the cutter to get a quicker bite, or maybe it has been lengthened to allow the cutter to take a longer bite - bugger if I know.
As far as the toughness of the steel under the chrome, that does not do the cutting. In fact, I think it was Aussie that mentioned a Chinese chain he had that had really tough steel under the chrome and it was a pain to sharpen. However, the chrome was so thin that it dulled faster than anything else he ever used.
The height of the cutter doesn't do the cutting, it is the cutting angle. Perhaps as a cutter gets down towards the end of its life it might provide more chip clearance, but if you already have enough chip clearance with a used up 95VP chain, then the taller cutter on the 20NK chain isn't going to gain you anything.
So, coming back to the question, what makes a chain more effective on a stronger engine? Does it have something to do with some aspect of the chain geometry, like the heel of the cutter?
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