Federal Airtight 264CCL Questions

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So apparently my local home improvement stores do not carry furnace cement in any type shape or form. They also don't care Roof Vent Caps (We removed an old asbestos pipe that was for the old water heater vent or something was draining into a can that was shoved under it, so that it looked like a can hanging from ceiling). My trip was a complete waste.

So since I need to purchase this stuff online I want to be sure I'm getting the right thing.

Amazon.com: Dap 18854 Stove and Fireplace Mortar 10.1-Ounce: Home Improvement

or

Amazon.com: Red Devil 0466 Fireplace & Stove Repair Paste Adhere, Black, 10.1-Ounce: Home Improvement


Also would I need one or 2?

thanks!

The DAP one would be OK.. I bought Rutland furnace cement at Lowes in a 1 qt. container but the caulking would probably be easier.,. One tube may be enough but 2 may be better.. I used a putty knife and 1 qt. container so hard to say for sure.. This would probably be OK too: Amazon.com: 64C BLK FURNACE CEMENT CARTRID SIZE:11 OZ.: Home Improvement or Amazon.com: Rutland Prod. FSC16 Furnace Cement: Kitchen & Dining .... Most of the furnace cements work on metal and withstand 2000+ degrees...

Ray
 
I agree with Ray. I used the Rutland, but had it in a tube which is easier to apply. I'd get two, just to make sure. There is a suprising amount of area to cover and you want to apply a liberal amount to make sure it seals everything good.

Asbestos!!! Hope you took plenty of precautions so that you didn't get those fibers airbourne.
 
Ok I'm leaning towards 3 tubes of the DAP stuff since it's free shipping instead of $8 for a $4 item.

Also I was interesting in trying some of that stove polish I heard about. I found this stuff on ebay. (Rutland 8oz) which seems like a reasonable price. However it says it is for unpainted surfaces. Isn't the federal airtight factory painted? I believe this is the same stuff, but the users said they put it on their painted stoves anyways and it was ok?
Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Liquid Stove Grill Polish, 8 oz

Rutland Liquid Stove Polish. 1/2 Pt. - eBay (item 110634568436 end time Feb-09-11 06:08:08 PST)

Will it work?
 
Ok I'm leaning towards 3 tubes of the DAP stuff since it's free shipping instead of $8 for a $4 item.

Also I was interesting in trying some of that stove polish I heard about. I found this stuff on ebay. (Rutland 8oz) which seems like a reasonable price. However it says it is for unpainted surfaces. Isn't the federal airtight factory painted? I believe this is the same stuff, but the users said they put it on their painted stoves anyways and it was ok?
Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Liquid Stove Grill Polish, 8 oz

Rutland Liquid Stove Polish. 1/2 Pt. - eBay (item 110634568436 end time Feb-09-11 06:08:08 PST)

Will it work?

Yes it will work however I have cautioned that you will get black if you touch the stove after polishing it with stove black as it contains carbon.. I have done it myself but found out the hard way that you will get dirty if you stove polish the stove.. I painted mine this past fall and 2 cans of paint is more than enough to get it done.. These stoves were originally painted from the factory not polished....

Ray
 
Yes it will work however I have cautioned that you will get black if you touch the stove after polishing it with stove black as it contains carbon.. I have done it myself but found out the hard way that you will get dirty if you stove polish the stove.. I painted mine this past fall and 2 cans of paint is more than enough to get it done.. These stoves were originally painted from the factory not polished....

Ray

Thanks, the rest of the parts I need are on order now from woodmanspartsplus, I even decided to replace the air tubes. I ordered 2 cans of charcoal colored paint. I might just paint the doors and top and leave the rest so I don't have to remove the stove. I would imagine to completely paint the stove it would best be done outside, and possibly fired up outside as well the first two times then re-installed into the house. But it is a bit heavy to lift myself! I should have it done in time for summer haha.
 
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You've hit just about every stove parts store on the net.

Scratch that. Didn't think to check the link to the one store. I'm a little slower than usual today.
 
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Thanks, the rest of the parts I need are on order now from Replacement Wood Stove Parts, Coal Stove Parts, Gas Stove Parts, Replacement Barbecue Parts, Pellet Stove Parts, Vermont Castings, Coalbrookdale, I even decided to replace the air tubes. I ordered 2 cans of charcoal colored paint. I might just paint the doors and top and leave the rest so I don't have to remove the stove. I would imagine to completely paint the stove it would best be done outside, and possibly fired up outside as well the first two times then re-installed into the house. But it is a bit heavy to lift myself! I should have it done in time for summer haha.

I bought a part from that company last year.. They have quite a few parts available for our stoves and the prices are reasonable.. I painted the doors outdoors and the stove carcass in the livingroom in the mild weather with all the windows open and box fans blowing out.. Told everyone to leave the house for a while so I could paint the stove body.. I did mask off everything and was careful and oh yeah the fumes were wicked for about an hour lol.. Fired up the stove on a mild day to cure the paint with the house vacated and fans in the windows.. After that it wasn't too bad.. Gotta say the stove looked good with a fresh coat of paint!

Good Luck!
Ray
 
Thanks Ray, I ordered 2 can's of paint. Everything is coming along nicely. I think I will buy a polishing wheel for the drill press too so I can polish a few parts like the handle and the "Federal Airtight" emblem.

I just chucked the airflow valves into the press and they came out really good.


Polish by Glamisduner, on Flickr

One of them was completely black (same color as splotch the non polished on in the picture) so I was not sure if it was even brass. Are the rings that go on the shaker grates brass (I'm guessing not).
 
Thanks Ray, I ordered 2 can's of paint. Everything is coming along nicely. I think I will buy a polishing wheel for the drill press too so I can polish a few parts like the handle and the "Federal Airtight" emblem.

I just chucked the airflow valves into the press and they came out really good.


Polish by Glamisduner, on Flickr

One of them was completely black (same color as splotch the non polished on in the picture) so I was not sure if it was even brass. Are the rings that go on the shaker grates brass (I'm guessing not).

Those look great! There are 3 brass air damper knobs and the Federal Airtight nameplate along with the 3 brass door handles (I used Scotchbrite to remove the lacquer) the rest is not brass.. I have done the drill press thing and I find that brasso works great for normal shining.. The collars on the shaker grates are painted black on my stove so they are probably steel..

Ray
 
Those look great! There are 3 brass air damper knobs and the Federal Airtight nameplate along with the 3 brass door handles (I used Scotchbrite to remove the lacquer) the rest is not brass.. I have done the drill press thing and I find that brasso works great for normal shining.. The collars on the shaker grates are painted black on my stove so they are probably steel..

Ray

Interesting, I don't have any handles, other than the one used to turn the latches and shaker grates. I used 400 then 600 grit paper, then some aluminum polish I had laying around on one of those blue shop towels.
 
Interesting, I don't have any handles, other than the one used to turn the latches and shaker grates. I used 400 then 600 grit paper, then some aluminum polish I had laying around on one of those blue shop towels.

Yes the stove came with 3 handles similar to this one: Brass Handle Assembly at Black Swan Home, Hearth & Gift , along with the shaker tool you mentioned plus a wall rack to hang them on.. Plus mine also came with a spare door latch (which I still have) along with many other things..

Ray
 
Yes the stove came with 3 handles similar to this one: Brass Handle Assembly at Black Swan Home, Hearth & Gift , along with the shaker tool you mentioned plus a wall rack to hang them on.. Plus mine also came with a spare door latch (which I still have) along with many other things..

Ray

Wow, I wish I could have found a spare door that would have saved me a ton of time! The one handle I do have has been brazed together at some point.
 
Wow, I wish I could have found a spare door that would have saved me a ton of time! The one handle I do have has been brazed together at some point.

LOL came with lots of spare parts but no spare door.. I still have all the coal stuff down cellar unused too.. For what I paid I got a great deal! It still amazes me how much abuse your stove saw yet it survived.. I bought a steel cat on e-bay recently and got a great deal at $59.00 shipped.. Couldn't pass on that deal.. I bet you could find a used stove like ours on Craigslist cheap if keep an eye on it.. I missed out on a 2461 which replaced our stove that was never used for free it just needed paint as it sat in a garage... Bummer!! I look forward to seeing your stove completed.. Keep up the good work!

Ray
 
LOL came with lots of spare parts but no spare door.. I still have all the coal stuff down cellar unused too.. For what I paid I got a great deal! It still amazes me how much abuse your stove saw yet it survived.. I bought a steel cat on e-bay recently and got a great deal at $59.00 shipped.. Couldn't pass on that deal.. I bet you could find a used stove like ours on Craigslist cheap if keep an eye on it.. I missed out on a 2461 which replaced our stove that was never used for free it just needed paint as it sat in a garage... Bummer!! I look forward to seeing your stove completed.. Keep up the good work!

Ray

Yea, I see Federal Airtights pop up, but wood stoves are not nearly as popular in Souther California as colder climates. So I'm thinking the chances of finding one one locally, for a good price, is pretty slim. Mostly, the ones I do see are not in any better condition, or else they want as much as i could buy a replacement for off amazon. Since I'm a new home owner on a budget, and propane isn't cheap when we do need heat, I figure fixing it with new parts is still the best way to go.

Any tips on cleaning up the emblem? Mines pretty dark, and I'm hoping to not have to hand sand it before buffing.
 
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Brass is Beautiful

... Any tips on cleaning up the emblem? Mine's pretty dark, and I'm hoping to not have to hand sand it before buffing.

Brasso if you want to fool with it. There are lots of other brass cleaners as well. When it comes to all the other brass hardware (handles and valves), I use my drill press, spin them, and burnish with fine sandpaper.
 
Yea, I see Federal Airtights pop up, but wood stoves are not nearly as popular in Souther California as colder climates. So I'm thinking the chances of finding one one locally, for a good price, is pretty slim. Mostly, the ones I do see are not in any better condition, or else they want as much as i could buy a replacement for off amazon. Since I'm a new home owner on a budget, and propane isn't cheap when we do need heat, I figure fixing it with new parts is still the best way to go.

Any tips on cleaning up the emblem? Mines pretty dark, and I'm hoping to not have to hand sand it before buffing.

Ed's idea to spin up the brass dials in a drill press works well.. On the nameplate I took it off and used scotchbrite abrasive pad but use a low abrasive version then brasso and buff it out.. Love the brass stuff!

Ray
 
So I received most of my parts, except for the baffle that sits under the airtubes and combustor. Since I have to season the back grate and alot of painting and cleanup to do I decided to get buisy on this anyways. The stove is looking (yea maybe not from these pics) great but I kinda screwed up last night.

I could not figure out a way to replace the gasket for the flue that engages and disengages the combustor without removing the 4 bolts that hold he mount in place. I knew this was going to be risky just from looking at these...

I started on the left top bolt and it actually came out without breaking! The threads were rusted so I chased them with a tap and it cleaned up nice. The Second Bolt on the left side however snapped clean off :(. Unfortunately, I did not notice that at this point the flue could be removed so I went to remove one from the right side. It also snapped off (it turned but I guess that was just the screw twisting itself) :(. Luckily at this point I realized I didn't need to remove the last bolt on the right hand side in order to remove the Flue.


More busted bolts by Glamisduner, on Flickr

Notice the top right and left lower bolts in the picture.

So is one bolt on each side good enough? It seems to hold but removing the lid again later would be a bit painful.
If not I would need to remove this inner part from the stove and get it over to the drill press to drill out the bolt from the bottom side. Looking at the stove it appears that I would remove be backing and break the cement seals and this piece would come out? Is it worth the effort or just go with one bolt on each side to hold the flue in place?

I just can't catch a break but I'm so close to finishing! Here are some closeups.

Left broken bolt by Glamisduner, on Flickr


Right broken bolt by Glamisduner, on Flickr
 
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Thanks for the updates. I think you'll be fine with just the two bolts. I don't think it would be worth the effort you'd need to go through to get the broken bolts out. I guess just make sure when you are open and closing the bypass door you don't let it slam to hard. Even then I doubt the remaining bolts would break.

Keep up the good work.
 
bolts

Personally I feel 2 bolts would be better especially when you add a new gasket as it takes alot of pressure for quite a while to compress that gasket when new.. I did mine 2 months ago and it's still pretty snug..

Just my 2 cents..

Ray
 
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