chimney puffing

[pook]

There is no need to ask the OP if this works because you, not they, made the statement. All I am asking of you is where is the 'proof in the pudding' for your statement.

Shari

LOL! proof of the pudding is not in the recipe, its in the pudding

 

[Biker Dude]

My Taylor T-450 does it sometimes when I have aggressively dry wood (old box elder, birch, etc...) in the firebox. It's because you are not getting enough oxygen in to meet the demand of the fuel. Mine has a cover that swivels over the blower intake and if I close that cover the boiler will "woof" sometimes. This year I took the stupid cover off completely and the boiler works much better for it. Since you have 2 blowers I wouldn't think it is a problem with oxygen in unless your blower tubes are blocked with creosote or ash or something. I would start by giving the air tubes and the flue a good cleaning and see what happens. The directional chimney cap sounds like it might be worth a try, do you have a link Keith?

 

[CrappieKeith]

i axed 4 bacharac gas analysis & u said $500k! then u wrote about the bacharac though no #s were revealed, for which i asked in the first place= cant see the flame & cant see the gas analysis.

1st off Pook there is no recognized test of yet for for emmisions.
2nd When a test does get approved which is supposed to be accepted by the EPA tenatively summer of 2011 then we will send our furnaces...all 6 of them which will cost around 15-30 grand each to be tested .Also if there are any changed to the furnaces then they will have to be re-submitted to UL for another series of test to be re-certified as safe. That will be another 15-30K for each furnace.
Here's a link to what Canda's B 415 testing looks like.
After you have read all 83 pages get back to be on your last comment about all you have to do is....
It's not as simple as you think it is o grand master of wood burners.

To the OP...check out this thread...it may shed some light.
http://www.chimneys.com/burning_secrets/chapter_6.html

 

[CrappieKeith]

Biker dude...that link Iposted did mention to dry of wood and not enough air as the wood mass gasses up really fast....good point. It also talked about flue size,length and winds.
Here's the one we offer.
Artis Metals Company Inc. | Chimney Caps

 

[pook]

1st off Pook there is no recognized test of yet for for emmisions.
2nd When a test does get approved which is supposed to be accepted by the EPA tenatively summer of 2011 then we will send our furances...all 6 of them which will cost around 15-30 grand each to be tested .Also if there are any changed to the furnaces then they will have to be re-submitted to UL for another series of test to be re-certified as safe. That will be another 15-30K for each furnace.
Here's a link to what Canda's B 415 testing looks like.
After you have read all 83 pages get back to be on your last comment about all you have to do is....
It's not as simple as you think it is o grand master of wood burners.

To the OP...check out this thread...it may shed some light.
http://www.chimneys.com/burning_secrets/chapter_6.html

ya right! ure gonna wait until possible failed testing & spend the costs be4 u analyze the gas?

 

[Country1]

My Taylor T-450 does it sometimes when I have aggressively dry wood (old box elder, birch, etc...) in the firebox. It's because you are not getting enough oxygen in to meet the demand of the fuel. Mine has a cover that swivels over the blower intake and if I close that cover the boiler will "woof" sometimes. This year I took the stupid cover off completely and the boiler works much better for it. Since you have 2 blowers I wouldn't think it is a problem with oxygen in unless your blower tubes are blocked with creosote or ash or something. I would start by giving the air tubes and the flue a good cleaning and see what happens. The directional chimney cap sounds like it might be worth a try, do you have a link Keith?

I agree 100%
Mine does the same thing. Lack of oxygen. Only does it when new wood has been added and the initial burn is taking place. Open up the secondary damper a few notches takes care of the problem for me. I don't have blowers and such.

 

[Geez]

My Taylor T-450 does it sometimes when I have aggressively dry wood (old box elder, birch, etc...) in the firebox. It's because you are not getting enough oxygen in to meet the demand of the fuel. Mine has a cover that swivels over the blower intake and if I close that cover the boiler will "woof" sometimes. This year I took the stupid cover off completely and the boiler works much better for it. Since you have 2 blowers I wouldn't think it is a problem with oxygen in unless your blower tubes are blocked with creosote or ash or something. I would start by giving the air tubes and the flue a good cleaning and see what happens. The directional chimney cap sounds like it might be worth a try, do you have a link Keith?

My boiler has no air tubes like a Taylor, kind of the oposite. Johnsons have tubes carrying water that pass through the upper part of the firebox. These are clean. There is also a flue diverter above these. A sort of sliding plate that diverts the smoke to the front of the box, up and then back to the rear where the chimney is. Pulling a rod moves the plate back so flue gases are allowed to go straight out the chimney and not out the fill door when filling it.
Mine also has grates. A lower cleanout door which allows ash that falls through the grates to be shoveled out, incorporates the lower blower. The upper fill door incorporates the upper blower that blows over the fire.
If I don't rake the coals enough to keep ash from plugging the grates, I can see where the air from the lower blower would be restricted. I'm thinking that the 'explosions' may also shake some of the ash loose so that may be why after 4-6 puffs all is normal again. Sound reasonable?

 

[CrappieKeith]

flame goes out, gases build up, flame comes back, boom!
pre-epa stove rule was never load stove with more than 1/3 firebox capacity & never fill stove beyond 2/3 firebox capacity.

So where's the data Troll...

 

[pook]

So where's the data Troll...

gotta have the glass to see, been there done that with cardboard & sawdust & I dont sell furnaces! or anything elseopcorn:
further if u need a reference to understand uncombusted gassification just to call me Troll?

 

[pook]

If fill = load... Then is it not to exceed 2/3? or 1/3 of capacity? Cause something tells me I fill a little more than 1/3.

fireboxvolume = 9 cubic feet so no loading should exceed 3 cu ft & when loaded, the firebox should not have more than 6 cubic ft of wood= old rule but lemme know if it dont work

 

[jags]

I have heard this commonly referred to as a "flashback". It happens when there is not enough oxygen to support the burn rate and it can create a negative pressure in the burn chamber which causes air to be pulled down the stack. With the added oxygen coming down the stack, you get a mini explosion when it hits the fuel load.

Or at least that is one scenario. More air feed to the fire will cure this, if in fact, this is the cause.

 

[pook]

I have heard this commonly referred to as a "flashback". It happens when there is not enough oxygen to support the burn rate and it can create a negative pressure in the burn chamber which causes air to be pulled down the stack. With the added oxygen coming down the stack, you get a mini explosion when it hits the fuel load.

Or at least that is one scenario. More air feed to the fire will cure this, if in fact, this is the cause.

In the case of a thermostatically controlled stove like an Ashley, the air intake closes when the wood is hot & it smokes wicked! Shouldnt that result in an explosion?

 

[jags]

In the case of a thermostatically controlled stove like an Ashley, the air intake closes when the wood is hot & it smokes wicked! Shouldnt that result in an explosion?

Not as long as the intake air meets the needs of the fire and does not create a negative pressure issue. This is typically not a situation that is easily created, but it does happen.

I have had it happen ONE time on my stove. My fault. Ash pan door was not latched properly and created a raging fire in my stove very shortly after a cold start up. Clamp the door shut and slammed the primary air shut. About 2 min latter it sounded like my woodstove was going to end up in the basement. WOOOF!

 

[pook]

Not as long as the intake air meets the needs of the fire and does not create a negative pressure issue. This is typically not a situation that is easily created, but it does happen.

I have had it happen ONE time on my stove. My fault. Ash pan door was not latched properly and created a raging fire in my stove very shortly after a cold start up. Clamp the door shut and slammed the primary air shut. About 2 min latter it sounded like my woodstove was going to end up in the basement. WOOOF!

did u watch it happen? i bet the flame extinguished & the gasses built up.
i gave a simple proposed solution to OP though i'm glad to hear some pookineese
= the chimni has a circular draft as i'd read in POPULAR SCIENCE.
FROM MY EXPERIENCES TO DATE, NOTHING EXPLODES AS LONG AS THERES AN ACTIVE FLAME- sawdust & cardboard are the worst examples besides gassified flammable liquid gassifications.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

fireboxvolume = 9 cubic feet so no loading should exceed 3 cu ft & when loaded, the firebox should not have more than 6 cubic ft of wood= old rule but lemme know if it dont work

Again: Please quote your source.

But, then again, the conversation is about burning wood. Pook does not burn wood. Pook burns sawdust in a reclaimed minnow basket in a modified pellet stove which he feeds a shovel full of sawdust every 1/2 hour. :msp_lol:

Shari

 

[pook]

Again: Please quote your source.

But, then again, the conversation is about burning wood. Pook does not burn wood. Pook burns sawdust in a reclaimed minnow basket in a modified pellet stove which he feeds a shovel full of sawdust every 1/2 hour. :msp_lol:

Shari

senseless where u seem incapable of understanding anything without an acceptable label= the proofs in the pudding, not the recipe............BTW both the sawdust & the cardboard gasses exploded only after the flame died. & flames can have different colors depending on available O2= thats why gas cookstoves & stoves have air adjustments, venius.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

gotta have the glass to see, been there done that with cardboard & sawdust..

BTW both the sawdust & the cardboard gasses exploded [/B]only after the flame died. QUOTE]

So... you are saying... you burn sawdust in a reclaimed minnow basket in a modified pellet stove and the sawdust explodes when the flame dies and yet you stick to that burning method? Interesting...

From page 10 of my Oslo owners manual: "Burn only solid wood directly on the bottom grate of the stove..." found here: http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Te...ul F 500 Oslo/Manual_F_500_USA_P14_160810.pdf

From your other posts, you own a pellet stove and a sawdust burning furnace. So tell me, why is it you are posting wood burning recommendations on a wood burning message board when you don't even own a woodburning furnace nor a woodburning stove and therefore do not even burn wood?

Shari

 

[pook]

BTW both the sawdust & the cardboard gasses exploded [/B]only after the flame died. QUOTE]

So... you are saying... you burn sawdust in a reclaimed minnow basket in a modified pellet stove and the sawdust explodes when the flame dies and yet you stick to that burning method? Interesting...

From page 10 of my Oslo owners manual: "Burn only solid wood directly on the bottom grate of the stove..." found here: http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Te...ul F 500 Oslo/Manual_F_500_USA_P14_160810.pdf

From your other posts, you own a pellet stove and a sawdust burning furnace. So tell me, why is it you are posting wood burning recommendations on a wood burning message board when you don't even own a woodburning furnace nor a woodburning stove and therefore do not even burn wood?

Shari

this thread aint about burning, its about exploding which is an accelerated burn resulting from excessive uncombusted gassification. According to ur manual, biobrix are not allowed so if the allowed wood was too wet, biobrix couldnt be used to balance the MC of the load? unless the proper reference can be sited LOL . it aint about the recipe,its about the pudding=it aint about the stove,its about the fire. so congrats, uve acheived parrot status with ur knowledge.1 reason mfr.constrains variations is possible liability so they stick to the book. my pstove requires an OAK be used but others dont, why?= cause they only tested UL for OAK used & they sell the OAK kit. BTW that OAK was tested according specific materials construction so improvi$ed OAK may not match the required specs.!
minnow basket worked fine until the bottom burned out then when the sawdust wass added, it could extinguish the flame & allow BOOM which didnt break the glass but probly aint good for the stove. i am currently burning wettish wood in a tiny EPA stove. The recipe had to be altered but the pudding is better than if not. Mfr is out of biz so i cant call for a "proper reference":msp_scared:
pstove has wriiten under the cover "meets Oregon 35/1 exemption" which is 1 means by which non-EPA stoves exist. wood & wood products require 10/1 ratio & the other 25 are whats called wasted heat out the chimni so i ask mfrs. for smoke content analysis #s which they always defer from disclosing too often with personal attacks.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

uve acheived parrot status with ur knowledge.

If by 'parrott status' you mean I operate my stove within manufacturers specs, then the answer is yes I do. I also stop at red lights and go at green lights when driving my vehicle - those rules are in the drivers ed manual, so yes, I parrot that manual also.

my pstove requires an OAK be used but others dont, why?= cause they only tested UL for OAK used & they sell the OAK kit. BTW that OAK was tested according specific materials construction so improvi$ed OAK may not match the required specs.!

Guess you answered your own question there.

minnow basket worked fine until the bottom burned out then when the sawdust wass added, it could extinguish the flame & allow BOOM which didnt break the glass but probly aint good for the stove.

A$$-tute observation.

Shari

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Shari... you took Pook off your ignore list. :msp_scared: I see it's causing you stress and aggravation. I still just get the ignore message till someone quotes him.

LOL