Nik's Poulan Thread

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If you have the Sears model #s, I'm sure someone here smarter than me, can cross them for ya. The Sears model numbers give me a headache.:dizzy: LOL Im GUESSING that the bigger saw is a 3.4 (3400). There are a lot of them out there. Bore size or model number will tell the story. The number will look like 358.xxxxxxx etc.

The smaller one is probably like a Poulan 2175 etc. Not sure.

Big help I am huh.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Fact is the saw idled and ran so well I almost didn't bother to do a pressure/vac test in the first place. When a leak was evident, I felt I had to track it down even though it didn't seem to be having a discernible effect. Thanks for confirming that a small leak isn't necessarily a fatal condition. What is the design intent for the sleeve - is it supposed to spin with the crank or is the crank supposed to spin inside it? Or maybe a bit of each? The Stihl 044 has a similar setup.

That sleeve gets locked tight to the crank when the clutch is installed tight against it, so it is whats spinning against the inside of the PTO side seal.

Why did they use this configuration? I'm not completly sure but I figure that it was because this series of saws design was used from 3.6 all the way to 4.5 CI displacements and also was used in some auto oiler configurations as well. In the auto oiler examples, that sleeve is replaced with a sleeve/gear combo that also drives the oil pump.

Like I said that slight leak is built into the saw and its designers knew it would have had to have known it would always be there. It is a contolled constant leak though and I dont consider it a problem as like you say the saw runs perfect that way. Homelite had a controlled leak in the 330 saws where they had a hole drilled right in the crankcase under the reeds to prevent fuel puddling there.

The saw runs good, you dont have to worry about that sleeve, but if you want you could use a sealer on the inside of it.
 
That sleeve gets locked tight to the crank when the clutch is installed tight against it, so it is whats spinning against the inside of the PTO side seal.

Why did they use this configuration? I'm not completly sure but I figure that it was because this series of saws design was used from 3.6 all the way to 4.5 CI displacements and also was used in some auto oiler configurations as well. In the auto oiler examples, that sleeve is replaced with a sleeve/gear combo that also drives the oil pump.

Like I said that slight leak is built into the saw and its designers knew it would have had to have known it would always be there. It is a contolled constant leak though and I dont consider it a problem as like you say the saw runs perfect that way. Homelite had a controlled leak in the 330 saws where they had a hole drilled right in the crankcase under the reeds to prevent fuel puddling there.

The saw runs good, you dont have to worry about that sleeve, but if you want you could use a sealer on the inside of it.

A very helpful reply, thanks a heap! The observation about design flexibility makes a lot of sense.
 
Hi, I know you guys can help me. I picked up a few saws and b&c's last week for almost nothing and I'm looking for some info on one of them. The guy says both ran a year or so ago. I searched AS, feebay and google and could not come up with much, a little but nothing to really nail this down. Both are Craftsman, one on the left says Turbo 2.2 on it but the one on the right is the one I need more info on. There is nothing written on it anywhere...I can find. Questions are; Where is the model # located? I do know its exactly like my 3400 and a red craftsman 3.7 looks like it except for the color. Is this considered a 3.4, 3.7, 3.8 60cc saw? If you can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it greatly. Looks like a nice keeper, with little info found seems kinda rare maybe.:clap:

The most common of those gray and black Craftsman saws is model 358.356091 and is 3.7 c.i., and is equivalent to a Poulan 3800. These saws have an aluminum bore with a chrome piston rather than the other way around as found in the 3.7's or 3700's. No big deal, they're still plenty durable. They are not particularly rare. There is at least one model smaller than that which sports those colors but as someone already pointed out you'll have to measure the bore to find out and honestly I don't know the specs. You can go on Craftsman's site and look up that model # and you should be able to find the user manual there. Those saws will all be the same except for the top end. Just click the link below and the owner's manual should magically appear.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/2645/CRAFTSMAN-Chainsaw-Gas-L0804029?brand_name_search=358.356091
 
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The most common of those gray and black Craftsman saws is model 358.356091 and is 3.7 c.i., and is equivalent to a Poulan 3800. These saws have an aluminum bore with a chrome piston rather than the other way around as found in the 3.7's or 3700's. No big deal, they're still plenty durable. They are not particularly rare. There is at least one model smaller than that which sports those colors but as someone already pointed out you'll have to measure the bore to find out and honestly I don't know the specs. You can go on Craftsman's site and look up that model # and you should be able to find the user manual there. Those saws will all be the same except for the top end. Just click the link below and the owner's manual should magically appear.

Owner's Manual - CRAFTSMAN Chainsaw, Gas 358356091, 358356101 - ManageMyLife.com

Thanks guys! The manual will help too, actually has part #'s in it...good ole days. Do I have to remove the jug to find the bore size, is their a better way? Also any particular place I would find the model #, I've scraped through the crud but nothing so far.
 
Thanks guys! The manual will help too, actually has part #'s in it...good ole days. Do I have to remove the jug to find the bore size, is their a better way? Also any particular place I would find the model #, I've scraped through the crud but nothing so far.





Remove the muffler.
Place a plastic soda straw (or similar object) in the exhaust port, keeping it as level as possible, to the back side of the cylinder.
Rotate the crank til the piston comes up and contacts the object.
Give it the bite...bite...bite like when the dentist is working on your filling.
Measure the distance from the end that was at the back of the cylinder to where the piston crimped the object against the top of the exhaust port, in mm, and report your findings here!


Mike
 
Thanks guys! The manual will help too, actually has part #'s in it...good ole days. Do I have to remove the jug to find the bore size, is their a better way? Also any particular place I would find the model #, I've scraped through the crud but nothing so far.

I'm going off memory here, so beware!!:msp_unsure:
I think the bore sizes on them are as follows.

3400-- 45mm
3700 & 3800--47mm
4000 ---49mm

If that isn't right, somebody can slap me around. :biggrin:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Remove the muffler.
Place a plastic soda straw (or similar object) in the exhaust port, keeping it as level as possible, to the back side of the cylinder.
Rotate the crank til the piston comes up and contacts the object.
Give it the bite...bite...bite like when the dentist is working on your filling.
Measure the distance from the end that was at the back of the cylinder to where the piston crimped the object against the top of the exhaust port, in mm, and report your findings here!


Mike

I'm going off memory here, so beware!!:msp_unsure:
I think the bore sizes on them are as follows.

3400-- 45mm
3700 & 3800--47mm
4000 ---49mm

If that isn't right, somebody can slap me around. :biggrin:

:cheers:
Gregg,

Terrific! Thanks a lot that's a great idea I'll give it a try, might be the weekend before I get back to it.
 
attachment.php
The most common of those gray and black Craftsman saws is model 358.356091 and is 3.7 c.i., and is equivalent to a Poulan 3800. These saws have an aluminum bore with a chrome piston rather than the other way around as found in the 3.7's or 3700's. No big deal, they're still plenty durable. They are not particularly rare. There is at least one model smaller than that which sports those colors but as someone already pointed out you'll have to measure the bore to find out and honestly I don't know the specs. You can go on Craftsman's site and look up that model # and you should be able to find the user manual there. Those saws will all be the same except for the top end. Just click the link below and the owner's manual should magically appear.

Owner's Manual - CRAFTSMAN Chainsaw, Gas 358356091, 358356101 - ManageMyLife.com

Here's another version of it. It's a 3.0 18" bar. Craftsman number 358.356081.
 
I'm going off memory here, so beware!!:msp_unsure:
I think the bore sizes on them are as follows.

3400-- 45mm
3700 & 3800--47mm
4000 ---49mm

If that isn't right, somebody can slap me around. :biggrin:

:cheers:
Gregg,



If they do.........They better be damned sure to stay out of Kentucky!!!!!:cheers:

Mike
 
That saw still makes me wonder as I know the parts list say 3.0 but it is really a 3400 by the parts list for it.

I had one listed as a 3.0 as well. That didn't make sense since Poulan didn't offer a "3000" on that chasis. Someone should measure the bore. Maybe it was a marketing thing and it reall was a 3.4. Also the red/black saws were marked 3.4/16" or 3.7/18". The grey black saws only have the sears number and a 16"-18" bar. Now that isn't as reliable since the bar could have been replaced several times!
 
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Remove the muffler.
Place a plastic soda straw (or similar object) in the exhaust port, keeping it as level as possible, to the back side of the cylinder.
Rotate the crank til the piston comes up and contacts the object.
Give it the bite...bite...bite like when the dentist is working on your filling.
Measure the distance from the end that was at the back of the cylinder to where the piston crimped the object against the top of the exhaust port, in mm, and report your findings here!


Mike

Good gosh Mike, I would have pulled the cylinder. Kidding of course. Great idea. How about another one? I terrible when checking squish. Don't think I've ever had the solder compress. I also always do it before installing rings. Not using thick enough solder?
Bob
 
I had one listed as a 3.0 as well. That didn't make sense since Poulan didn't offer a "3000" on that chasis. Someone should measure the bore. Maybe it was a marketing thing and it reall was a 3.4. Also the red/black saws were marked 3.4/16" or 3.7/18". The grey black saws only have the sears number and a 16"-18" bar. Now that isn't as reliable since the bar could have been replaced several times!

You're right Joe, as the 3000 shared the same chasis and parts(for the most part) with the 2700, 2800 and 3300. In fact my 3450 Type 3 shared a lot of the same parts as well depending on Model and Type#.
Bob
 

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