Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

Nice XP1020 score! I REALLY like that style of full wrap bar (there were a few different bends). That 'forward raked' handlebar makes the saw ballance great with a 30-36" bar. Makes me want to clear my bench and get mine running. That screw doesn't look like it's from that Homelite. Probably just some random screw that got grabbed by the flywheel magnets while the saw was sitting in somebody's garage/shop. I have a parts Super E-Z that came to me with about a half dozen screws and roofing nails up under the flywheel cover!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

--they must have, because that is how this one is, vented caps, no duckbills.

I have another one under the bench, eventually I'll get to that one and see what it looks like.

I had two of them, sold one last week but sometime I'll check the one I have left and see how it's built. The one I sold is the one I had apart. I think I may have an IPL for that saw, I'll see if I can find it.

Yeah the parts list calls for them. Pt. no. 88616 or something like that, it's so fuzzy I can't make out the numbers. It also calls for a Zama carb. and I'm pretty sure my other saw had a Walbro on it. I put a kit in about a month or so ago. If I remember right I didn't change the fuel lines on it because they looked pretty good.

 

[gomlin]

The guy said that the recoil and carb had recently been serviced and both looked like it. Tomorrow I'll get a chance to get some fresh mix in it and see if she runs. I'm planning to use it for chainsaw milling. It came with the rim sprocket hub and .404 rim. I'm thinking of getting a new rim and see both 7 and 8 tooth rims on Ebay. Would there be much performance advantage for milling to use one versus the other? Also, is there a formula to calculate the number of drive links for a given bar? I'm gonna use my 42" roller nose bar from my Super Wiz 80 for the milling, but the only chain I have for that bar is 1/2". Obviously it will need more .404 drive links. Gonna be ordering some loops of Woodland Pro soon. Thanks,

Jim

 

[homelitejim]

The guy said that the recoil and carb had recently been serviced and both looked like it. Tomorrow I'll get a chance to get some fresh mix in it and see if she runs. I'm planning to use it for chainsaw milling. It came with the rim sprocket hub and .404 rim. I'm thinking of getting a new rim and see both 7 and 8 tooth rims on Ebay. Would there be much performance advantage for milling to use one versus the other? Also, is there a formula to calculate the number of drive links for a given bar? I'm gonna use my 42" roller nose bar from my Super Wiz 80 for the milling, but the only chain I have for that bar is 1/2". Obviously it will need more .404 drive links. Gonna be ordering some loops of Woodland Pro soon. Thanks,

Jim

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192039.htm

look in this thread, there is a formula for finding out the # of drivers for any given bar and chain combo. Look for Brian VT's post.

 

[gomlin]

Measuring the actual length around the bar and sprocket makes sense. I'll grab one of those cloth measuring tapes that people use when sewing. That should work well. I don't have a breaker/spinner yet so I am planning on ordering pre-made loops from Bailey's. Thanks for the tip.

Jim

 

[67L36Driver]

Measuring the actual length around the bar and sprocket makes sense. I'll grab one of those cloth measuring tapes that people use when sewing. That should work well. I don't have a breaker/spinner yet so I am planning on ordering pre-made loops from Bailey's. Thanks for the tip.

Jim

Or, a length of pull rope, and just measure the pull rope.:msp_thumbup:

 

[Roanoker494]

Does anyone know if a clutch and sprocket for a 360 will fit on an XL12?

Can not say for sure but I believe the 360 had a spider that screwed onto the crank and the Xl-12 had a nut that held the whole clutch assembly on, though that may have changed on the later model XL-12. Try it an let us know........

EDIT:
I checked a couple IPL's and both saws use the same clutch bearing but different inner races. The IPL's also showed the 360 to have a inboard sprocket and the xl-12 to have a outboard, can not remember how my XL-12 is set up at the moment.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Can not say for sure but I believe the 360 had a spider that screwed onto the crank and the Xl-12 had a nut that held the whole clutch assembly on, though that may have changed on the later model XL-12. Try it an let us know........

EDIT:
I checked a couple IPL's and both saws use the same clutch bearing but different inner races. The IPL's also showed the 360 to have a inboard sprocket and the xl-12 to have a outboard, can not remember how my XL-12 is set up at the moment.

I think you're right on the inboard-outboard thing.. I looked at it today but for some reason the configuration slipped my mind. I was gonna change my Xl12 to a rim sprocket which my 360 parts saw had but I'll probably just wait until mine gets a little more worn and buy a new one instead.

 

[Roanoker494]

I think you're right on the inboard-outboard thing.. I looked at it today but for some reason the configuration slipped my mind. I was gonna change my Xl12 to a rim sprocket which my 360 parts saw had but I'll probably just wait until mine gets a little more worn and buy a new one instead.

I have a new Oregon branded rim system here for a XL-12, part number 68208, though the info states there was a serial number cut off and I have not checked mine to see if it would fit yet. I mainly bought it because it was $8 shipped and came with a new oregon rim.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have a new Oregon branded rim system here for a XL-12, part number 68208, though the info states there was a serial number cut off and I have not checked mine to see if it would fit yet. I mainly bought it because it was $8 shipped and came with a new oregon rim.

Yeah, I haven't checked the serial number on mine but it isn't one of the real early ones because it doesn't have the older, wick type of fuel systems.

 

[Roanoker494]

Yeah, I haven't checked the serial number on mine but it isn't one of the real early ones because it doesn't have the older, wick type of fuel systems.

Mine also has a regular fuel line and I believe it to be from the mid 70's. If I remember correctly the rim system I have has the bearing pressed into the drum.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mine also has a regular fuel line and I believe it to be from the mid 70's. If I remember correctly the rim system I have has the bearing pressed into the drum.

I looked mine over today and decided there really wasn't much wear on my spur sprocket so decided not to go any further with it right now. No more than this saw gets used (it has the loud stack exhaust) it will probably outlive me.

 

[Eccentric]

Can not say for sure but I believe the 360 had a spider that screwed onto the crank and the Xl-12 had a nut that held the whole clutch assembly on, though that may have changed on the later model XL-12. Try it an let us know........

EDIT:
I checked a couple IPL's and both saws use the same clutch bearing but different inner races. The IPL's also showed the 360 to have a inboard sprocket and the xl-12 to have a outboard, can not remember how my XL-12 is set up at the moment.

Yep. XL-12/SXL saws are inboard clutch/outboard sprocket. The SN cutoff for the different clutches is 1735838. I have a blue XL-12 (that I've recently put up pics of) that has a 20998xx serial number. It has the later clutch and starter assembly, but still has the wick type fuel tank. I have a Super XL-12 with a 18017xx serial number. Same as the other saw. Both are blue/white. Also have an XL-15. It's red and white, and has a 16146xx serial number. Early clutch, starter, and fuel tank.

 

[chainsawlady]

sprockets

I think you're right on the inboard-outboard thing.. I looked at it today but for some reason the configuration slipped my mind. I was gonna change my Xl12 to a rim sprocket which my 360 parts saw had but I'll probably just wait until mine gets a little more worn and buy a new one instead.

Tried to send you a private message. It wouldn't accept since your box is full. Would like to give you some information on rim sprockets. You can P.M. me.
chainsawlady

 

[67L36Driver]

Homelite SDC troubles.

Couldn't get the SDC-3 tuned on my red/black XL-12 and the fuel inlet spigot was loose in the carb. body.

Contemplated useing an SDC-12 from one of my XL-101 types on it. Only difference I can see is the -12 has the accelerator pump and your average -3 has none.

I think it should work.

Waddayah say?

Found a Homelite Tilley left from ? and put him on there. He works now.

 

[Eccentric]

Couldn't get the SDC-3 tuned on my red/black XL-12 and the fuel inlet spigot was loose in the carb. body.

Contemplated useing an SDC-12 from one of my XL-101 types on it. Only difference I can see is the -12 has the accelerator pump and your average -3 has none.

I think it should work.

Waddayah say?

Found a Homelite Tilley left from ? and put him on there. He works now.

SGT N.,

Just run the Tilly if it's working fine and the throttle/choke arms are right for your linkage and idle speed screw. Keep the XL-101 type SDC in reserve for your saws in that family. If you really want another XL-12/SXL application SDC for your XL-12, I'll send you one from a parts saw Carl. No charge for you my friend.

I'm switching all my XL-series Homelites to HS's for simplicity. They (my XL-12/SXL and XL900 series saws) will run the Tillys, while my 10-series Macs will continue to run SDC's. I have about 10 RK-23HS kits (and 'only' four K10-SDC kits left). All but one of my runner XL-12/SXL Homelites are HS equipped already. Only that one SXL, plus a couple project saws left to switch over. I've got enough HS carbs on parts saws to cover those.

Also, you were needing accelerator pump diaphragms for the XL-101 type SDC's weren't you? I have a couple new ones left over from Mac SDC rebuilds (those carbs aren't pump equipped) that I could send you in an envelope if you still need 'em. Let me know...

 

[67L36Driver]

Aaron:

I'm good on SDC-12 types with the accelerator pump. Have two spares ready to go. Left over from my loose ground wire incident on the one XL-123 saw. Kept blaming my carb. rebuilding shortcomings when it was electrical.

 

[67L36Driver]

Homelite duckbill check valves?

Did Homelite use a next size larger rubber duckbill besides the little red ones?

I have a Homie fuel lid that looks like it takes one on a metal spigot in the center underside of the cap.

Another place I can use one is on a couple Remington SL-4A auto-oiler checks.

The Remington duckbill is 9/16" long and 1/4" dia. body.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Did Homelite use a next size larger rubber duckbill besides the little red ones?

I have a Homie fuel lid that looks like it takes one on a metal spigot in the center underside of the cap.

Another place I can use one is on a couple Remington SL-4A auto-oiler checks.

The Remington duckbill is 9/16" long and 1/4" dia. body.

I've only seen the one. They come in other colors beside red though, I've seen blue ones, might be aftermarket vendor.

 

[whatscooking]

92?

I have a very nice Homelite on my work bench that has the plate behind gas cap missing along with the last number on the side scrubbed so i cannot tell what model it is. The air lid is black with anong with what looks like a single coil under the starter. I think it is a later model 925 but i don't know.