Fireproof gloves

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smokee

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I have a pair of Walmart fireproof gloves that are what I paid for them, cheap. The heat goes through very easily. I just can't have anymore burns from the recirc tubes that I keep burning my knuckles on. I found these and was curious if anyone's tried them or has a suggestion on a pair of gloves that insulate the high temps well.

Any experience with these?

Military Army Green Fireproof Nomex Pilot Safety Gloves Size 10 New | eBay

Thank you in advance!
 
I have a pair of Walmart fireproof gloves that are what I paid for them, cheap. The heat goes through very easily. I just can't have anymore burns from the recirc tubes that I keep burning my knuckles on. I found these and was curious if anyone's tried them or has a suggestion on a pair of gloves that insulate the high temps well.

Any experience with these?

Military Army Green Fireproof Nomex Pilot Safety Gloves Size 10 New | eBay

Thank you in advance!

Welding gloves. Medium or heavy weight. The cheapie Hobart medium weights can be had for 10-12 bucks, and work great.

The lightweight welding gloves aren't real good, but better than the cheapo chineese "Fireplace" gloves.

The .Mil nomex Pilots gloves are NOT what you are looking for. I have several pair and they are not what you are thinking.

Nomex works by blocking oxygen, not heat, to keep your skin from burning when you are doused with fuel, or whatever vehicle/craft you are in is burning. Ya might as well be using plain old leather gloves.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
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+1 on the welding gloves, get the ones with the long cuffs. Oddly enough, I wear knit kevlar gloves when I'm welding. :msp_biggrin:
 
Yes to welding gloves. You can grab something hot with them (but not hold it long). They _will_ prevent accidental, momentary contact, burns. I use mine when dumping the ash pan which can be hot enough to burn bare hands.

Harry K
 
Don't know what the oxygen blocking material is

but NOMEX is what that hood I pull over my head before going into a burning building is made of. My gloves are leather lined with nomex also. I don't think there is a single piece of my turn-out gear that doesn't have nomex in it.

I would check the pilot gloves out, they may be just the ticket for protection and dexterity.:msp_biggrin:
 
Yup, welding gloves are the ticket. I had to get a set when I got the new stove, stuffing it full gets ya too close for too long otherwise. Check your local hardware store or bigbox joint, I paid $12 for the deluxe ones, regular were $9 or so. The deluxe ones have more padding/insulation in em, and they come in a pretty blue color:

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meh...plain old leather gloves, some fingers are even duck taped. A long time ago we used the longer welder gloves but forgot the reason for the switch to shorter gloves.
 
but NOMEX is what that hood I pull over my head before going into a burning building is made of. My gloves are leather lined with nomex also. I don't think there is a single piece of my turn-out gear that doesn't have nomex in it.

I would check the pilot gloves out, they may be just the ticket for protection and dexterity.:msp_biggrin:

Notice that your hood is covered by a helmet and shroud, your gloves with leather, and your turn out coat and bunkers have at least 3 different layers of different material. The nomex is used because it is light, breathable, and can withstand short exposure to high heat and it won't ignite or melt to your skin. Nomex knit gloves won't provide adequate insulation from direct contact with something hot. They just won't melt to your skin or char like synthetics, cotton, or leather. :)

Welders gloves work better for the lay man for handling hot things.
 
+ + + I agree, welding gloves all the way... no way I'd pay $20.oo for "special" gloves that you're just gonna' abuse anyway.

If you watch the sale ads at the fleet stores, cheap welding gloves can be had for as little as 6 bucks and they work fine (but the better, more expensive ones will hold up longer and allow longer contact with heat). I usually get the ones with the longest cuff in the 10-12 dollar range and they usually last for 2 full heating seasons... probably could get an easy 3 seasons out of them if I was a bit more careful (but they do get dirty/smelly eventually). I even use them to pick up tennis ball size hot coals that fall out of the firebox on occasion... and I'll reach right in the firebox to move flaming logs around when loading. I just automatically put them on before touching anything related to the stove, even if I'm just grabbing the poker to stir up the fire a bit... ain't even so-much-as singed a hair now in over two years.

The cheaper ones tend to open at the seams during contact with fire (threads must not be fire resistant)... and the thinner leather wears through faster handling rough-barked wood.
 
I have the welding gloves like the rest but most of the time I use cotton gloves with duct tape on the fingers. The best gloves I have is the used gloves from my son, He is a part time fire fighter; when his gloves get bad, he gives them to me.
 
Notice that your hood is covered by a helmet and shroud, your gloves with leather, and your turn out coat and bunkers have at least 3 different layers of different material. The nomex is used because it is light, breathable, and can withstand short exposure to high heat and it won't ignite or melt to your skin. Nomex knit gloves won't provide adequate insulation from direct contact with something hot. They just won't melt to your skin or char like synthetics, cotton, or leather. :)

Welders gloves work better for the lay man for handling hot things.

Well, insulative value is largely dependent on the construction. I received a product called the "Ov Glove" at an As Seen on TV gift party (don't ask). It's just a double layer of knit Nomex with silicone beads for grip. It's fine for handling hot things from the oven, plenty of insulation so long as you don't spill any food on them. Knitting the Nomex increases its insulative quality by providing air voids, but of course it isn't gas or liquid impermeable on its own. A tighter woven shell material would be needed, or something like leather, that is relatively impermeable.

Bunker gear shells are often made from woven Nomex, Nomex/Kevlar blends, PBI and a host of other blends and synthetics (and often treated with DWR). The insulation comes generaly from Nomex fiber batting held in place by a quilted liner.

But yes, the general idea behind using the aramid based fiber textiles is that they're flame resistant, not necessarily because they're not good heat conductors. They do actually char at high temperatures, but don't produce volatile gases. Charring is more desireable than melting, as you pointed out.
 
That's why I like this site... always good ideas outside my realm of thinking. I like the welding glove idea. I do have a pair of leather gloves but they get hot pretty quick. They're el cheapo's though. I'll see what I can find this evening.

Thanks a lot guys! As always, much appreciated.

Joe
 
Just wondering if Harbor Freight sells welding gloves... I'm pretty sure they do. I have one here in Lancaster that's not too far. Might have to take a trip over there.
 
I use the HF gloves. I get a couple seasons out of a pair of the gray ones. They are a little thinner and more flexible than some of the other welding gloves. They are running a special on 3pr for $9.99 right now.

I wouldn't grab and hold a burning log with them but they are more than good enough to protect your hands from an accidental brush with the stove or heat from a big pile of coals.
 
+ + + I agree, welding gloves all the way... no way I'd pay $20.oo for "special" gloves that you're just gonna' abuse anyway.

If you watch the sale ads at the fleet stores, cheap welding gloves can be had for as little as 6 bucks and they work fine (but the better, more expensive ones will hold up longer and allow longer contact with heat). I usually get the ones with the longest cuff in the 10-12 dollar range and they usually last for 2 full heating seasons... probably could get an easy 3 seasons out of them if I was a bit more careful (but they do get dirty/smelly eventually). I even use them to pick up tennis ball size hot coals that fall out of the firebox on occasion... and I'll reach right in the firebox to move flaming logs around when loading. I just automatically put them on before touching anything related to the stove, even if I'm just grabbing the poker to stir up the fire a bit... ain't even so-much-as singed a hair now in over two years.

The cheaper ones tend to open at the seams during contact with fire (threads must not be fire resistant)... and the thinner leather wears through faster handling rough-barked wood.

Reminds me of how my wife burned her fingers picking a hot coal off the stove hearth. She picked it up bare handed to toss in. Guess she had watched me do it but didn't notice the "fast" part of doing that.

Harry K
 
HF Gloves

I use the 3 for 9.99 HF gloves and they work great.

I like that they are a bit more flexible than some of the others.

Work great for the stove and for welding. Not too bad for wood hauling either.
 
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