3 Stihls down in a week.... need help tuning/troubleshooting Stihl 044s and 066

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NIK

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Hey guys,


I’m brand new to this site. I have been in tree business for almost 10 years now and have scaled back over the last few years. I have a pair of 044s that I have used non stop day in and day out during the season. Besides keeping them clean, replacing the basics I have never had to do a significant teardown in all these years, Well in a matter of a couple weeks both started acting up and I am looking for some guidance on both here is where I am at. I have read a ton and have learned a lot. I specifically have been reading about the 066 as well, I will get to that soon.

Saw 1 – STIHL 044 without decompression. Early 90s model, bone stock. Started a constant squeal over on the pull start side. I believe it’s the pull starter itself. I’m going to swap the one off the other saw for now and see what happens. When taking it of I noticed I’m missing a fin as well. I am not too worried about it and plan to keep running it. From what I read it shouldn’t be an issue. I’m pretty sure it was when my brother was trying to pull the clutch without a piston stop and broke it off. Any other idea of what this possibly be besides a crank bearing? It does not sound like a crank bearing, but I am not really sure at this point. I set it aside and used the second one until I had the time. Which leads me to the second.


Saw 2 - 044 with decompression. Purchased at the same time as the other one. This has been my primary saw all these years and has been used for felling year around and bucks up between 150-160 chords of wood at the end of the season. Just recently it started revving up on its own. Out of no where it revs to about half throttle. I am guessing it’s an air leak and have order a new case gasket set, and intake for it while its down. Picked up a carb rebuild kit just in case. I have yet to disassemble it so I know ordering parts prior is pretty stupid, but I figure they will be used down the road. I will never get rid of these saws, as they have paid for themselves a 100 fold easily. Also, one muffler mount bolt keeps backing out. I have used red thread locker and after a few tanks she backs out. I’m guessing the only fix is to re-tap the hole and make sure it’s clean, otherwise I figure it will be a heli-coil till it needs a new top end.

Like I said, I have never really had to do anything major on either of these saws since I have used them and am a mechanical newb with further disassembly past the clutch. Some days I will hit 10 + tanks of fuel through a unit, and some felling days it could only be a few. I have technical manuals now for both and can usually figure out from schematic what to disassemble first and how to reassemble. Any video on you tube of a dis-assembly of an 044 or similar model????

My question to you guys is what else should I look for while its apart? I really do not want to change anything as they have been the most reliable saws I have ever owned, or seen, and have outlasted many of my coworkers 460 441s and so on.


Lastly, while both saws went down in a matter of 10 days, I went out and purchased an 066 after an employee ran over my barely used ms660 with about 20,000 lbs, and blew a couple tires out on my trailer at the same time. Needless to say there was not one bit on the saw I could have kept in the moment of fury. I bought the 066 saw for what I thought was a fair price. I have been reading up on them and I believe this is a red eye model with decompression, and has the poly flywheel. Could be wrong, but from what I read the decompression models were updated to the poly wheel over the aluminum wheels. Therefore the ignition should be updated correct from the limiting ignitions? The saw was owned by a fellow who came from a logging family up in MT. He had a couple of 460s and was keeping his MS660. There is a good amount of time on this saw, and he just replaced the cylinder with a NWP big bore kit and has tuned it a little, and mentioned it was still pretty rich. He mentioned he had replaced cylinders on multiple saws throughout the years, and from what I could take, he knew his **** and this was not an experimental fix on the saw. When I bought it, it idled nice and smooth and spools up quick but starts bogging out on the top end and will dive in RPM. If you feather the throttle a bit you can keep it up top, but when you hold it wide open she slowly dives down and bogs out. I have tried quite a few times to get it tuned close so even at full throttle it would stay in a four stroking tune. I have not been able to get it to stroke properly, let alone four stroke on the top end in a cut. The basic tuning that so many follow does not even seem to come close on this saw. It idles nice and smooth but seems to be running pig rich on top. At one point I had the filter off and swore I could feel atomized fuel coming out the butterfly it was running that rich. That’s how rich it felt.


So what do you guys suggest? I’m assuming the big bore kits change the common setting a bit, and the fact I’m up at 6000 ft in elevation will also. We cut at 8k-10500 often. I do appreciate any advice you may have as I threw a lot out there. I think I can get one fixed and the other trouble shot fairly quick. It’s the 066 that is throwing me for a loop on the tuning. I need to get one running properly before the weekend to get some work done at a friends cabin before the snow flies.


Put in a big order to Baileys for parts as well. Never knew about that site, and after comparing costs on ascenders, harnesses, ropes, and all of that jazz, man I could have saved me quite a bit over these years, more than enough to take the lady on a vacation!

Thanks again and I really do appreciate all the brains on here who have contributed to quite a reading and learning experience over the last few days.
 
The red light case won't accept the poly flywheel so that part has been swapped. The NWP BB kit is ok at best for power. Probably less than the original red light cylinder.

Replace the bearings in the 044 along with seals and maybe a piston and put it to work another 10 years. Timesert is the best helicopter kit for a saw. Expensive for one hole but if you have a few more in that size it won't be too bad.

The squeal is probably a bearing or something rubbing in 044-1
 
044 # 2 sounds like an air leak somehwere, the boot is a usual culprit due to the vibe, have you been replacing the antivibe on them every so often it makes a difference. On #1 Has anyone suggested breaking off the opposite fin to balance it out I have heard it works well. Is anything stuck behind the flywheel?

On the 66 did you get a compression reading , is it getting a strong spark?


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For the 066 I would replace the fuel filter,
check the coil/flywheel gap. I believe it should be .010" or the thickness of a business card.
Check the condition of the plug wire and make sure it is securely seated in the coil and securely attached to the spark plug.
Install a new good quality spark plug.
If after doing this the saw still doesn't rev properly I would try a different coil. Maybe"barrow" a known good coil from one of your other saws (if it's the same coil)
If none of these suggestions help I would try rebuilding the carb and going from there
 
The red light case won't accept the poly flywheel so that part has been swapped. The NWP BB kit is ok at best for power. Probably less than the original red light cylinder.

Replace the bearings in the 044 along with seals and maybe a piston and put it to work another 10 years. Timesert is the best helicopter kit for a saw. Expensive for one hole but if you have a few more in that size it won't be too bad.

The squeal is probably a bearing or something rubbing in 044-1

It does have a red LED, until a few day ago I had never heard of it. Assumed mine was a red eye since it had that. I had read the ones with a decompression valve already had poly flywheels. I must have been mistaken. My question is between the poly flywheel and aluminum the difference is material correct? I assumed it ment a polyester material instead of aluminum. Sorry for the stupid response. I am learning here.

on #1 I guess its time to tear it down and just rebuild the entire saw so I know its new all around. What parts are all needed to so? Gaskets, crank bearing, need for a new piston? gaskets... do they make an overhaul kit for these from baileys?

I have timeserts, its all I use for helicoiling... i should not call it that as I'm not truly using helicoils.

Thank you for the help.
 
044 # 2 sounds like an air leak somehwere, the boot is a usual culprit due to the vibe, have you been replacing the antivibe on them every so often it makes a difference. On #1 Has anyone suggested breaking off the opposite fin to balance it out I have heard it works well. Is anything stuck behind the flywheel?

On the 66 did you get a compression reading , is it getting a strong spark?


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i figure it was the intake hose. I can not see any tears on it or the tube I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner arounf the two thinking it would cause it to rev up a bit. that was not true. I will tear it down further and see what i find. Regarding the anti vibe, what are those specifically, the ruber mounts through out the base of the saw?

Thank you for your help
 
Revving up on its own......
Impulse hose
Fuel hose
Torn intake boot
Bad crank seal(s)

Pick any one or combination of all
well i have a new intake hose and new tube on the way. I did not look at the fuel line, or even know where the crank seals are. I will learn and figure that out next
 
Yes the rubber mounts around the saw dry out and crack they are cheap to replace


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I think the 1300 coil is the universal pretty much isn't it?

The crank itself is different is why I think the case is upgraded. The poly flywheel is lighter than the aluminum.

Yeah get the gasket set from stihl. It comes with all the seals and gaskets cheaper than you can buy them individually. Bearings for both sides. Piston wouldn't hurt if the horizontal lines on your original is gone.
 
on #1 I guess its time to tear it down and just rebuild the entire saw so I know its new all around. What parts are all needed to so? Gaskets, crank bearing, need for a new piston? gaskets... do they make an overhaul kit for these from baileys?
Yeah get the gasket set from stihl. It comes with all the seals and gaskets cheaper than you can buy them individually. Bearings for both sides. Piston wouldn't hurt if the horizontal lines on your original is gone.
Go with OEM or Meteor if you decide to replace the piston. I would not buy the NWP from Bailey's. It is not the same quality. I have ordered some stuff from from @Definitive Dave and his prices are way lower than my local dealer.
 
For the 066 I would replace the fuel filter,
check the coil/flywheel gap. I believe it should be .010" or the thickness of a business card.
Check the condition of the plug wire and make sure it is securely seated in the coil and securely attached to the spark plug.
Install a new good quality spark plug.
If after doing this the saw still doesn't rev properly I would try a different coil. Maybe"barrow" a known good coil from one of your other saws (if it's the same coil)
If none of these suggestions help I would try rebuilding the carb and going from there


I called the fellow tonight. He said all he did was replace the gaskets, carb needle, and the cylinder. Fuel filter is new too. when you say coil gap, this is beteen the flywheel fins and coil? Sorry for my ignorance.

Plug wire is secure on both, plug could be replaced but its not to bad. I have one on the way,

I do not think the 044s and 066 use the same coil correct?

Regarding the carb. i played with it for nearly an hour tonight. What is the technical term for the lower needle? The low speed i set between 3/4 up to 1 1/2. I could turn the high speed all the way in or all the way out at any given low speed setting, with no change on the high end. I think the issue may be with the carb somewhat, but i have no idea what to adjust, as my adjustment are not making a difference except for the low speed. Adjusting the low speed is affecting the top end a bit, but the high speed is negligable.
 
I think the 1300 coil is the universal pretty much isn't it?

The crank itself is different is why I think the case is upgraded. The poly flywheel is lighter than the aluminum.

Yeah get the gasket set from stihl. It comes with all the seals and gaskets cheaper than you can buy them individually. Bearings for both sides. Piston wouldn't hurt if the horizontal lines on your original is gone.

Good to know. Is this at a dealer only or is there a web site to do so?
 
A lot of the stihls use the same coil. Can't remember the number for sure.

1 turn out on both should be fine for a starting point. The lower screw is the idle.
 
Go with OEM or Meteor if you decide to replace the piston. I would not buy the NWP from Bailey's. It is not the same quality. I have ordered some stuff from from @Definitive Dave and his prices are way lower than my local dealer.


Thank you for the device. Who is Dave? Nice saw as well!
 

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