bark on or bark off

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zogger

zogger

Tree Freak
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
16,456
Location
North Georgia
So when you load your stoves with pieces with bark on them do you put them in bark up or down. :monkey:

Sideways, bark towards the middle.....

Bwa, you asked! heheheh

A large amount of our wood here is branch wood, so it isnt split at all. I give them all the clang/clunk or thud audio test before bringing them in, no clang or clunk, just a thud, chuck them on the uglies pile for next winter.

Night logs I dont care, if they have been sitting at least a year, theyll burn enough to last.

Sometimes night logs are day logs. Put one in this morning at around..9:30 or so, still a big piece left in there. That was around a 12 inch thick 16 long sorta heavy oak crotch piece cut last summer. It missed the easy split test so got put into the night log stack.
 
rmount

rmount

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
466
Location
Ontario
I never spend any time taking it off, but after two summers in the wind and sun a lot of bark falls off as I move it to the woodshed, then more falls off when I pick it up to move it into the house.

On a good bed of coals I don't think it matters if the bark is up or down, if re-starting from a few coals I always put the split side to the coals.
 
tld400

tld400

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Messages
435
Location
NJ
Sideways, bark towards the middle.....

Bwa, you asked! heheheh

A large amount of our wood here is branch wood, so it isnt split at all. I give them all the clang/clunk or thud audio test before bringing them in, no clang or clunk, just a thud, chuck them on the uglies pile for next winter.

Night logs I dont care, if they have been sitting at least a year, theyll burn enough to last.

Sometimes night logs are day logs. Put one in this morning at around..9:30 or so, still a big piece left in there. That was around a 12 inch thick 16 long sorta heavy oak crotch piece cut last summer. It missed the easy split test so got put into the night log stack.

I do the same thing with hard to split crotch wood. I will open the bigger door on stove an put the big piece in and then put all small wood around it. Makes for a longer burn time.
 
Wood Doctor
Joined
Jan 10, 2008
Messages
12,568
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Save At Least Half.

I save about half the bark that falls off. If it does not fall off, burn it along with the log. The bark that does fall off usually makes good kindling when it dries competely. Throw it in a box and save whatever you can to help light the next fire. Why waste it?
 
blacklocst

blacklocst

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
871
Location
Taconics
rmount;4183164 On a good bed of coals I don't think it matters if the bark is up or down said:
I put Ash in bark side facing the glass, when the conditions are right it looks like one of those fake glowing fireplace logs.
 
Tim Carroll

Tim Carroll

Firewood Hack
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
412
Location
West Central Wisconsin
Clean… yes.
Efficient… not so much.

Going from an old smoke dragon last year to an EPA certified (non-cat) firebox this year, I’ve noticed as temperatures drop so does the efficiency. During warmer periods this EPA box uses far less wood than the old box, but during colder periods it uses at least as much, if not more wood than the old box… and when it gets down-right arctic out it definitely uses more wood, a lot more! Overall, my total wood consumption hasn’t really changed… but we’re not as warm inside during extreme cold. And, the longer the cold weather lasts the worse the disparity gets.

Now some of y’all have argued that my problem is a bad install, or bad draft, or my modifications, or I’m using a firebox too small, or whatever. But none of that made any sense to me; the firebox is damn close to the same size as the old smoke dragon, and installed/modified in the same fashion… there just had to be more to it than that. I’ve experimented and tried dozens of things to improve performance, the best result has been to leave the intake air wide open and control the fire with a flue damper… better, but far from perfect. I’ve contended that the EPA design was simply a poor design, and in some ways I still think that… but the real problem is the EPA and how they require testing.

The EPA requires testing to be done under conditions they believe would result in the highest emissions rate (i.e. warmish weather) using a 15 foot stack height (measured from the floor the stove is sitting on). And the stove must perform, without the fire going out, while remaining within regulations, at minimum draft setting using dimensional lumber rather than cordwood. Well, that’s far from “real world” for many of us… my firebox is in the basement, resulting in an overall chimney height approaching 40 feet. What happens is, as the temperatures drop and the wind increases, the “heating efficiency” of my EPA box falls below that of the old smoke dragon… yet, because of design, the “combustion efficiency” remains. In other words, compared to the old smoke dragon much more of my heat is exiting the flue, which explains the excessive coaling and why the flue damper works best for me. Simply, the EPA regulations are all about combustion efficiency (emissions)… they have nothing to do with heating efficiency. In reality, in my home, during extreme cold, an old smoke dragon will use less wood and be a far more efficient “heater”… and yes, produce more emissions. During warmer weather the EPA box would be a better choice, but that ain’t when I need the heat the most.

Now, y’all can argue with me if ya’ want… but I’ve studied this at length. The other day I came across this article written in the 2006 WETT newsletter that not only confirmed what I was suspecting… but does a darn good job of explaining it. He calls it the “Florida Bungalow Syndrome"…

Florida Bungalow Syndrome

…and it also explains very well why some of us have problems similar to mine, while others of us don’t. Basically, the closer conditions are to test conditions the better these EPA stoves will work, but as conditions move away from test conditions the worse they will work… and the degradation in performance ain’t linear. If my fire box was sitting on the main floor of a single story, ranch-style home, in a slightly less cold and windy area of the country I’d likely be singing its praises… but living where I do, in the type home I do, I’ll never get close to the performance I need when January rolls around. It-is-what-it-is… it’s all about having the correct tool for the task at hand.


addendum; Sorry, I'm not meaning to hijack this thread, upon hindsight I should have started a new thread with it.
Which I've done, find it here...

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/230141.htm#post4182465

I think that this topic would make a great thread on it's own.
 
BrokenToys

BrokenToys

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
346
Location
East End Long Island
One of my OCD's...I try my best to remove all the bark as humanly possible. Just makes a mess bringing it in the house [primary reason] and also seems to get a lot of bugs in it [very close 2nd].

Yeah; I hear you all laughing. My relatives and friends think I am nuts but they see my firewood rows and just bask in all it's barkless glory.
 
spike60

spike60

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
6,234
Location
Ulster County NY
Seems like the thicker bark holds bugs, dirt and moisture. If the bark removes easy then I remove it.

That's exactly how I approach it.

My wood usually sits in blocks for a while before it gets split, so when I do get to splitting it the bark tends to drop off pretty easily. I also have a hatchet to coax some of it off, but I don't fight with it. I find that all wood drys much faster with the bark off. If I'm splitting wood that's recently been cut, then obviously the bark stays on.
 

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