Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Yea, I'm thinking of that Jerry,. I looked inside the oil tank and it may be easier try to tighten the existing cotter pin. I think I can get to it with a long thin screwdriver and possibly spread it out more thus tightening it up. Plan to give it a shot.
Bob

It should be easy to get any of them out by cutting the head off and fishing the two pieces out with a magnet. Maybe you could insert a longer, larger pin pre spread a bit and bend it with a piece of soft wood that the pin can dig into.

 

[dboyd351]

Don't know if this is a good idea or not, but you might be able to just pull the cotter pin and insert a screw with course threads, like some saws use to vent gas lines. My Solo 680 uses this setup for fuel line venting. By using different screws, you could vary the amount of venting.

 

[redunshee]

Don't know if this is a good idea or not, but you might be able to just pull the cotter pin and insert a screw with course threads, like some saws use to vent gas lines. My Solo 680 uses this setup for fuel line venting. By using different screws, you could vary the amount of venting.

Possibility

 

[barneyrb]

I'm glad one of you junkies bought that 475 today. I had made up my mind at work to come straight home and click "Buy it Now". Someone saved me money .........

 

[Flintknapper]

Modifiedmark wrote:

The micro xxv's were never stingy oilers to begin with.

Good to know, since I will probably work mine pretty hard in mostly dirty wood (small trees across roads, etc).

The amount of oil was metered through the orifice in the oil pump. That said there is a tank vent in the side of the oil tank near the bar pan with a cotter pin through it. Make sure the cotter pin is free and the vent not plugged up which will allow excess pressure in the oil tank and could allow excess oiling..

Checked the vent..it has a small pin (head bent over) rather than a cotter pin (two legs) and is just slightly smaller than the hole it resides in. It was free...and I imagine the saw could vent from it...but it's a pretty close fit.

Next pull the oil pump and make sure the tube between the pump and the bar pad is intact and not broken. A broken tube will allow the pressurized tank to force unmetered oil out the bar pad oiler hole.

^^^^^^^^^ Pulled the pump....and indeed the line was broken. Looks like it will be fun getting a new one put in place. I'm guessing regular Tygon will suffice? One thing I do not understand: How is pump actuated. The oil reservoir appears to be separate from the crank case, so where does the 'pressure' come from?

Is the 'pump' literally a pumping mechanism or does it primarily just meter oil from a pressurized reservoir?

Sorry for all the questions. The saws that I have owned for awhile....I pretty much know about, but this one is new to me.

Thank you for your time and willingness to bring me 'up to speed'.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I'm glad one of you junkies bought that 475 today. I had made up my mind at work to come straight home and click "Buy it Now". Someone saved me money .........

I wish someone would pick up that poulan pro 445 quad port 70.7cc. I have knew about before I picked up my builder and posted pic elsewhere. Little pricey though. $100 more then the 475.
The 445 has all of the updates like the 425 does, which is a big plus IMO.

 

[brokenbudget]

Possibility

no.
the cotter pin is perfectly fine. how are you going to thread a coarse thread screw through little more than a 1/16" of mag? and have it stay and vent? poulan used the cotter pin for a reason, because it worked. like i said, they all leak oil when on their side. i know how much oil they can leak. like i said before, it's normal.

 

[dboyd351]

no.
the cotter pin is perfectly fine. how are you going to thread a coarse thread screw through little more than a 1/16" of mag? and have it stay and vent? poulan used the cotter pin for a reason, because it worked. like i said, they all leak oil when on their side. i know how much oil they can leak. like i said before, it's normal.

I forgot it was in magnesium - was thinking there was a plastic/rubber insert. I agree I wouldn't do it if the hole itself is magnesium. My Bad.

 

[Modifiedmark]

no.
the cotter pin is perfectly fine. how are you going to thread a coarse thread screw through little more than a 1/16" of mag? and have it stay and vent? poulan used the cotter pin for a reason, because it worked. like i said, they all leak oil when on their side. i know how much oil they can leak. like i said before, it's normal.

I'm late to the party but have to back ya up on this!! Every word of it. :msp_wink:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Modifiedmark wrote:





Good to know, since I will probably work mine pretty hard in mostly dirty wood (small trees across roads, etc).





Checked the vent..it has a small pin (head bent over) rather than a cotter pin (two legs) and is just slightly smaller than the hole it resides in. It was free...and I imagine the saw could vent from it...but it's a pretty close fit.



^^^^^^^^^ Pulled the pump....and indeed the line was broken. Looks like it will be fun getting a new one put in place. I'm guessing regular Tygon will suffice? One thing I do not understand: How is pump actuated. The oil reservoir appears to be separate from the crank case, so where does the 'pressure' come from?

Is the 'pump' literally a pumping mechanism or does it primarily just meter oil from a pressurized reservoir?

Sorry for all the questions. The saws that I have owned for awhile....I pretty much know about, but this one is new to me.

Thank you for your time and willingness to bring me 'up to speed'.

Flint, I think you need to read this!! Easier then me explaining it. BTW that oil line is a piece of cake to replace.

 

[machinisttx]

Yea, I'm thinking of that Jerry,. I looked inside the oil tank and it may be easier try to tighten the existing cotter pin. I think I can get to it with a long thin screwdriver and possibly spread it out more thus tightening it up. Plan to give it a shot.
Bob

Could you get at it with these? Crescent Double-X Set: Get the Grip You Need Where You Need ItSears

 

[Flintknapper]

Flint, I think you need to read this!! Easier then me explaining it. BTW that oil line is a piece of cake to replace.

OK.........that 'splains it'!

Now I know what that hex head under the clutch is (check valve).

So...basically...the so called 'pump' does no pumping at all, but is only a metering/filtering device.

The reason my saw is pouring oil...is because the line is broken and the oil is free to go right out the oil line to the bar pad (unrestricted).

Thanks Mark!

Flint.

 

[Modifiedmark]

OK.........that 'splains it'!

Now I know what that hex head under the clutch is (check valve).

So...basically...the so called 'pump' does no pumping at all, but is only a metering/filtering device.

The reason my saw is pouring oil...is because the line is broken and the oil is free to go right out the oil line to the bar pad (unrestricted).

Thanks Mark!

Flint.

Yes, that's why I said to check the line!

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Anyone have a chain brake/ cover like this that they would sell/trade?
This one came on a 3700 I'm redoing, I different than other ones I've seen.
Nothing on Ebay, The other style seems to go through the bay once in a while but not this style.
Thanks! jim

 

[redunshee]

I'm glad one of you junkies bought that 475 today. I had made up my mind at work to come straight home and click "Buy it Now". Someone saved me money .........

When the seller dropped the BIN from $399 to $325 I had to grab my arm ala Dr. Strangelove. Nope not me!
Bob

 

[redunshee]

I'm late to the party but have to back ya up on this!! Every word of it. :msp_wink:

Maybe, but I've never seen one leak this bad. Still think I need to tighten up that cotter pin.

 

[brokenbudget]

Maybe, but I've never seen one leak this bad. Still think I need to tighten up that cotter pin.

what sometimes (actually most times) is the cotter pin wears the hole bigger over time by vibrating around. that's why i said earlier to use a 'slightly' larger pin. you can give the original pin a tug to get it out of there, but you will need good periferal vision and a long thin screw driver to bend one of the legs of the new one so it stays in place.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

diaphragm material

i got to the show a little too late. well, actually, i was too slow to decide. ya snooze, ya lose.
anyways, if any of you guys that went in on fossil's group buy for the diaphragm material would care to sell some i would care to buy some. i have couple of those types of saws and would love to have some of that material in my parts lot for anticipated future need. thanks. jerry

 

[redunshee]

what sometimes (actually most times) is the cotter pin wears the hole bigger over time by vibrating around. that's why i said earlier to use a 'slightly' larger pin. you can give the original pin a tug to get it out of there, but you will need good periferal vision and a long thin screw driver to bend one of the legs of the new one so it stays in place.

I tend to agree with you. Bending the ends may take the patience of Job. Think I'll pull the oil pump to remove the obstacles in my way(the lines).

 

[redunshee]

I will split mine with you, when I get it. :big_smile:

Been looking at mailing tubes as a way to mail them. Shortest I've seen are 18" so far. Which isn't too bad. Office Max Has them for $1.19/each. How many do we need?