Nik's Poulan Thread

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Ok. Good to hear. Thought I had somehow screwed up the p&c installation. Can't believe they sold this saw w/o a decomp.
Bob

If you look at Mark's 475 cylinder it was made for air injection (maybe someone had replaced it over the years).
I know he had a 475 at the poulan gtg he told me it had a 505 woods ported topend on it. :msp_thumbup:

Doing some quick searching 2077 52mm bore shows air injection. 2083II 52mm bore shows air injection and de-comp. 505 2083 54mm bore air injection and de-comp.


475 cylinder that wasnt made for air injection.

475425006-1.jpg
 
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That's exactly like mine. Guess I'll have to man up when starting it.
Bob

I would guess a 2077 cylinder had made it's way on a 475 at one time over it's life. That would be reason for the air injection cylinder with boss to drill out for a de-comp. 475 didnt have air injection and why our cylinders are like they are. Then again you never know about what poulan swapped in when needed on the Sweden assembly line.
 
That's exactly like mine. Guess I'll have to man up when starting it.
Bob

Bob on high compression saws with small diameter pulleys, I pull it slowly JUST past TDC, carefully reset the rope (without rolling the engine further past TDC)......and then pull with a purpose. Makes starting saws like a 288XP or 2100CD MUCH easier. When you pull, the engine is spinning before hitting the next compression stroke. You get the benefit of momentum.
 
Bob on high compression saws with small diameter pulleys, I pull it slowly JUST past TDC, carefully reset the rope (without rolling the engine further past TDC)......and then pull with a purpose. Makes starting saws like a 288XP or 2100CD MUCH easier. When you pull, the engine is spinning before hitting the next compression stroke. You get the benefit of momentum.

That is excellent advice right there!

Same technique I use on my Solo 603 (no decomp valve).
 
Bob on high compression saws with small diameter pulleys, I pull it slowly JUST past TDC, carefully reset the rope (without rolling the engine further past TDC)......and then pull with a purpose. Makes starting saws like a 288XP or 2100CD MUCH easier. When you pull, the engine is spinning before hitting the next compression stroke. You get the benefit of momentum.

I wish I had thought of mentioning that. It's one of those basic things I was taught long ago and I do it out of habit rather than thinking about on almost every saw I own.
 
Bob on high compression saws with small diameter pulleys, I pull it slowly JUST past TDC, carefully reset the rope (without rolling the engine further past TDC)......and then pull with a purpose. Makes starting saws like a 288XP or 2100CD MUCH easier. When you pull, the engine is spinning before hitting the next compression stroke. You get the benefit of momentum.

That's good advice on most any small engine.
 
If you look at Mark's 475 cylinder it was made for air injection (maybe someone had replaced it over the years).
I know he had a 475 at the poulan gtg he told me it had a 505 woods ported topend on it. :msp_thumbup:

Doing some quick searching 2077 52mm bore shows air injection. 2083II 52mm bore shows air injection and de-comp. 505 2083 54mm bore air injection and de-comp.


475 cylinder that wasnt made for air injection.

475425006-1.jpg

Where are you guys finding crank seals for these, I have a bad one on the flywheel side but I will replace both before it gets used again.
 
Little Poulan oiler troubles.

What is the usual mode of failure?

I have a 220 and a 2375 that run good but don't oil the chain. Looking in the tank everything appears clean and tidy.

My Craftsman/Poulan Frankensaw oiled like the Exxon Valdes so this is new to me.

Also have a 1950 Wood Shark that only runs on fast Idle. Cleaned carb.. New fuel line. Turn H four turns out. But dies at WOT. It oils fine, natch.. I will try a different fuel filter.
 
What is the usual mode of failure?

I have a 220 and a 2375 that run good but don't oil the chain. Looking in the tank everything appears clean and tidy.

My Craftsman/Poulan Frankensaw oiled like the Exxon Valdes so this is new to me.

Also have a 1950 Wood Shark that only runs on fast Idle. Cleaned carb.. New fuel line. Turn H four turns out. But dies at WOT. It oils fine, natch.. I will try a different fuel filter.

Ones I seen and worked on. The plastic oiler gear worn out aka stripped.

Pretty sure I have an extra oiler assembly if you need it.
 
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