Partner 500 interchangable parts

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PAwrestling#1

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Hi all. Im new to the forum but have read some older posts and am looking for info. on piston/cyl's that'll fit my 500's. Also 5000 and 5000 plus parts if they will? I have 3 500's which 1 runs and others not so well. Some scoring on cyl walls very very slight. i seen on here Johnsored parts will and i seen on ebay under HusqvARNA 51/55 piston and cyle that one add said will fit partner 500 too? Or does anyone have any parts wanting to sell to at least get one of these running?

Thanks,

Bob
 
Hi all. Im new to the forum but have read some older posts and am looking for info. on piston/cyl's that'll fit my 500's. Also 5000 and 5000 plus parts if they will? I have 3 500's which 1 runs and others not so well. Some scoring on cyl walls very very slight. i seen on here Johnsored parts will and i seen on ebay under HusqvARNA 51/55 piston and cyle that one add said will fit partner 500 too? Or does anyone have any parts wanting to sell to at least get one of these running?

Thanks,

Bob

Welcome to the forum Bob.

If one of your 500 cylinders will clean up you can use a 44mm Husqvarna 350 piston in it.
 
I was gonna try that on one but wasnt sure how much or how big I can go. And should i get ball type hone or stone type. Any preferance?
 
You don't use a hone to clean up a plated cylinder. They are SOMETIMES used to deglaze and make sure the cylinder bevels are smooth. Get some muriatic acid and a Qtip. It will bubble as the aluminum disolves. You can use 200 grit sandpaper when the bubbling slows to expose fresh aluminum and the retreat with acid. Continue until it is smooth. DO NOT apply it and walk away- sometimes the aluminum will have made small grooves and pits through the plating which don't present a problem. However, if the acid is left to its own way, it will finally eat through the aluminum left by the piston and find its way underneath the cylinder plating through the small grooves and pits. These imperfections may not be perceivable with the naked eye, but acid will find them and bubble the plating, lifting it from the cylinder and rendering the cylinder useless.
 
Home Depot/Lowes or local hardware store. Pool supply stores will also have it.

It's not too bad if you get it on the skin. A couple of years ago my wife was carrying a jug out from HD. She dropped it and the top popped off (the seal underneath didn't hold and the lid cracked) and a cup or so splashed on her feet (flip flops) and on my son's leg. We went back inside the HD and washed their skin in the bathroom sink. Neither had any blistering or complaints. I have gotten it on my fingers many times and it doesn't burn if you wash it off. Muriatic acid is a street name for a weak form of hydrochloric acid. HCL can be pretty nasty in higher concentrations, but there are acids that make HCL look like water.
 
so is this my only option is to clean up what I have or if this doesnt work, is there a for sure cyl/piston interchange out there that will work?
 
So it might not run as strong by doing this?


A 490/590 or a closed port 55 P/C would be stronger. The open port 55 is not as strong but would likely be very close to a 500 in terms of power. I would like ST or someone with more experience with the Partners to chime in on the fitment of the 55 cylinder, and the power vs. the 500.
 
yes i would love to hear more chimes to put me more at ease before ordering stuff. So are the johnson's closed or open port?
 
I gave some info in the Partner thread. If you were happy with the performance of the 500, I'd go with the 55 46mm top end. If your 500 is original, it will have an open port 44mm jug. I believe the only difference in the Husky jug is the decomp. The closed port jugs a hard to come by. A Jred 490 will bolt right on, and is a 44mm closed port. The Jred 590 will not bolt right on. The case would have to be clearanced for the skirt on jug. I believe the 46mm open port 55 jug would need the case clearanced as well. Easy to do with a carbide burr on a dremel or drill, take about 5 minutes. About 30 minutes making sure the case and bearings are 100% clean of chips.
 
yes i would love to hear more chimes to put me more at ease before ordering stuff. So are the johnson's closed or open port?

The 490 (44mm) and 590 (45mm) Jonsereds are closed port. The Partner 5000+ is 44mm closed, the Partner 500's are 44mm open. The Poulan 325 and Partner 5500 are 46mm closed port.
 
A 490/590 or a closed port 55 P/C would be stronger. The open port 55 is not as strong but would likely be very close to a 500 in terms of power. I would like ST or someone with more experience with the Partners to chime in on the fitment of the 55 cylinder, and the power vs. the 500.

A open port Husqvarna 55 top end will for sure have more power then a 500 top end. My Partner 540 is essentially just that, a 500 with a 55 op top end.


I gave some info in the Partner thread. If you were happy with the performance of the 500, I'd go with the 55 46mm top end. If your 500 is original, it will have an open port 44mm jug. I believe the only difference in the Husky jug is the decomp. The closed port jugs a hard to come by. A Jred 490 will bolt right on, and is a 44mm closed port. The Jred 590 will not bolt right on. The case would have to be clearanced for the skirt on jug. I believe the 46mm open port 55 jug would need the case clearanced as well. Easy to do with a carbide burr on a dremel or drill, take about 5 minutes. About 30 minutes making sure the case and bearings are 100% clean of chips.

I'm glad you chimed in. That's what I wasn't sure of. I expected that the 500 crankcase would have to be opened up to accept a 51/55 P/C.
 
I gave some info in the Partner thread. If you were happy with the performance of the 500, I'd go with the 55 46mm top end. If your 500 is original, it will have an open port 44mm jug. I believe the only difference in the Husky jug is the decomp. The closed port jugs a hard to come by. A Jred 490 will bolt right on, and is a 44mm closed port. The Jred 590 will not bolt right on. The case would have to be clearanced for the skirt on jug. I believe the 46mm open port 55 jug would need the case clearanced as well. Easy to do with a carbide burr on a dremel or drill, take about 5 minutes. About 30 minutes making sure the case and bearings are 100% clean of chips.

Wouldn't it be better to grind on the skirt than in the case?
 
Wouldn't it be better to grind on the skirt than in the case?

It depends. Grinding the case is easier and quicker, but you have the chips to deal with. Without the proper tools/bits, it's a little harder getting the skirt smaller close to the base. A burr will get you close to the base, then it can be finished up carefully with a cut off wheel or file to get the very inside corner. Either will work just the same.
 
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