How do you cut a tree up?

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Much the same here. I've been cutting mostly forest trees, few limbs on the main stem. Brush is first to get cut... I try to cut just below forks so I can get a rope through it and drag it out of the road. Little stuff, couple, three inches and up I'll saw for starter wood. Toss or pile them out of the road so I'm not stumbling over 'em later.

Limbs get bucked next. Toss in a pile or otherwise out of the way. Depending on circumstances I'll sometimes go ahead and load limb rounds and little stuff out before starting on the trunk. Cant hook and wedges to get the trunk bucked. That's where much of the time goes.
 
I cut top down also. Try to get all the higher branches down and buck up smaller ones in the air. I always watch for the tree to turn and try to cut branches first that could pin me if the tree spins.

I had a friend get pinned by an ash tree that spun on the stump. If cut properly the bottom end should never be resting on the stump.
 
I guess it's a different story if you are cutting a large crowned hardwood that is still at a 20 degree angle once felled due to very strong limbs versus a softwood tree that more or less of the entire trunk is touching the ground due to the crown shattering.
 
I guess it's a different story if you are cutting a large crowned hardwood that is still at a 20 degree angle once felled due to very strong limbs versus a softwood tree that more or less of the entire trunk is touching the ground due to the crown shattering.
Yeah, I hate wide crowned trees when the branches don't break on the way down.
 
I don't cut much that is alive and has lots of branches. Usually they are ashes killed by ash yellows so the upper story is dead stuff that mostly explodes into scrap on impact leaving lots of annoying junk to clean up if it's in a yard, but not a lot of branches to limb.

Most of the live trees I cut up are storm damage, so then the first thing to deal with is cutting it off the root mass, and that usually means finding some logs to place under the trunk while it is still elevated by the roots. Sometimes I need to cut off branches just to have support wood for this. But otherwise I'll cut the small stuff off first and then work on the elevated stuff from the top down, but one has to adapt for each tree. I try to keep and eye out for gaps under the main trunk where I can get the bar under to section it up, and sometimes that means keeping a longer branch on as a counterweight.
 
Cut the stump from the stem if it's a blow down,( I had 2 last week), and then from the top to the but cut.
 
A powered pole saw is nice for this - long reach without having to wade in too close, in case the tree shifts when weight is removed.

Philbert

Beat me to it, with the polesaw. From about a year back I go for a three -saw plan: bigger saw for felling & bucking, and two saws for limbing- a 25 cc polesaw for the stuff up in the air and a 40-50 cc saw. Mostlikely give it a haircut first- top down, whatever's safest & simplest.

Polesaws can prevent many "headaches" and gotchas.
 
I'm taking notes. I've come to the realization I really suck at the whole firewood process. Takes me several days to do what most here would probably finish off in a few hours. I'm not worthy to carry on this awesome Makita chainsaw.
 
I'm taking notes. I've come to the realization I really suck at the whole firewood process. Takes me several days to do what most here would probably finish off in a few hours. I'm not worthy to carry on this awesome Makita chainsaw.
You can't learn without doing. Don't beat yourself up as I'm sure you do just fine. Remember not to believe everything you read on the internet.
 
You can't learn without doing. Don't beat yourself up as I'm sure you do just fine. Remember not to believe everything you read on the internet.

No seriously, I suck at this lol. When I try to go fast I start to notice I get really careless so I have to take my time again.

Anyway, I basically follow your method. I use bucking wedges though on just about every round if I see the kerf start to close. It's kind of embarrassing standing around with your chainsaw stuck in a tree.
 
Anyway, I basically follow your method. I use bucking wedges though on just about every round if I see the kerf start to close. It's kind of embarrassing standing around with your chainsaw stuck in a tree.

That takes too damn long. Buck half way through until you get to a spot where you can get the bar under the log. Cut it off there, roll the log 180 degrees with your timberjack and then finish the other half of the cuts.
 
That takes too damn long. Buck half way through until you get to a spot where you can get the bar under the log. Cut it off there, roll the log 180 degrees with your timberjack and then finish the other half of the cuts.

Ahh, I knew that.

Actually I didn't, sounds like a great idea lol. Jeez I'm an idiot. Although, I don't have a timberjack/cant hook yet. Another damn thing I have to buy now.
 
I don't have a timberjack/cant hook yet. Another damn thing I have to buy now.
Timberjack aka "log roller"
Cant hook aka "pickaroon"

Two different tools. I rarely use a pickaroon, timberjack is great to keep your chain out of the dirt. 85% of my dulled chains come from being in too much of a hurry to use the timberjack and I hit the dirt with the tip.
 
Timberjack aka "log roller"
Cant hook aka "pickaroon"

Two different tools. I rarely use a pickaroon, timberjack is great to keep your chain out of the dirt. 85% of my dulled chains come from being in too much of a hurry to use the timberjack and I hit the dirt with the tip.

Wait a minute, are you sure? Just went to the Northern Tool site. Looks like a Cant Hook rolls logs. Tried to ask the online associate in the popup window but she just quoted the item description lol. I think I'll buy the Roughneck Tree-Felling Lever for $40. Looks like it can help with felling and has a log roller attachment.
 

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