Extreme leaner. How would you drop it?

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I found this sassafras leaner out back,as you can see it is very dead. I chose to put a wedge about 4 feet up,because it was not decayed there.Then I made a plunge cut just behind and above the wedge.Then I cut towards the top side of the trunk. It simply falls off with no problem. I was taught this cut about 40 years ago by an old logger that has since passed away.I have cleared river bottoms and have literally cut dozens of trees like this,never had an accident,injury or saw mishap.Hope these pics help.IMG_0341.JPG IMG_0344.JPG IMG_0347.JPG IMG_0348.JPG IMG_0350.JPG IMG_0349.JPG
 
I found this sassafras leaner out back,as you can see it is very dead. I chose to put a wedge about 4 feet up,because it was not decayed there.Then I made a plunge cut just behind and above the wedge.Then I cut towards the top side of the trunk. It simply falls off with no problem. I was taught this cut about 40 years ago by an old logger that has since passed away.I have cleared river bottoms and have literally cut dozens of trees like this,never had an accident,injury or saw mishap.Hope these pics help.View attachment 455784 View attachment 455788 View attachment 455789 View attachment 455790 View attachment 455791 View attachment 455792
Well we all know why that tree went over with out any trouble. You where using a dolmar. Trees fear for their life and just fall over and play dead when ever they see a dolmar.
All joking aside.
That is a neat cut. I have a bunch of smaller trees to practice on. I will be checking this out for sure.
 
This is the perfect tree for my method!! Drill a 2" hole at a 45 degree angle into the base. Get a 1 1/2" piece of pvc pipe, 6" long cap one end, drill a 1/8" hole in the cap for the other end. Fill the pipe solidly with gunpowder, cap the pipe, insert cannon fuse. Now insert pipe into hole in base of the tree, pack gravel on top of the pipe, light the fuse and run. Presto!! No more leaner
 
Last tree I cut like that was a 20" pin oak. I just notched the underside about a 1/4 of the way through. Then I have a bout a 2" hinge except I plunge cut straight behind the hinge and cut from the middle upwards. The tree leaned down hard the rest of the way down when I finished the cut out the top and as soon as the top hit the ground the butt end fell free and hit the ground.


Thanks
 
The tree in question must have a very strong root system to be still leaning at that angle.
I'd do 25 degree sloping undercut and backcut with no dutchman to mitigate the weight and speed of fall with a fast saw.
If done right there is nil to no chance of chairing, but you may get some butt shatter.
 
shallow undercut, bore in sinching up the holding wood thin, then sinch up the back cut leaving a strap to cut below. a guy who practices trying to slow a heavy leaner down with a thick hinge is gonna learn what a barber chair is real quick LOL that energy has to go somewhere and it will end up being released by the hinge breaking, strap cut, or blowing out the back right in a guys face. the cuts done in that tree surely would work but man that is one ugly stump. there are alot of stumps like that all over haynes junction up in the yukon. i have no idea who the cull was who did them LOL
 
shallow undercut, bore in sinching up the holding wood thin, then sinch up the back cut leaving a strap to cut below. a guy who practices trying to slow a heavy leaner down with a thick hinge is gonna learn what a barber chair is real quick LOL that energy has to go somewhere and it will end up being released by the hinge breaking, strap cut, or blowing out the back right in a guys face. the cuts done in that tree surely would work but man that is one ugly stump. there are alot of stumps like that all over haynes junction up in the yukon. i have no idea who the cull was who did them LOL
Lol, just yesterday I stumped jumped over 500 trees, with the largest being 6" dia. Thats 100 stems/hr.
Now I go back today and burn it all.
I'm too darn fast for my own good and should charge 100$ an hr., instead of 50$
 
This is the perfect tree for my method!! Drill a 2" hole at a 45 degree angle into the base. Get a 1 1/2" piece of pvc pipe, 6" long cap one end, drill a 1/8" hole in the cap for the other end. Fill the pipe solidly with gunpowder, cap the pipe, insert cannon fuse. Now insert pipe into hole in base of the tree, pack gravel on top of the pipe, light the fuse and run. Presto!! No more leaner
Tannerite would work too. :p
 
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Ok but I thought you are supposed to do a bore or plunge to keep it from barber chairing. It is hickory and they really like to do that.
So is it the consensus that in this circumstance it is better for a barber chair then a bore cut?
 
I think I would put a ratchet strap around the tree about 2 foot above where you are gonna cut. Get it as tight as you can. Cut a notch on the side facing the ground, give it about a 2" of hinge, plunge cut straight behind the point of the notch, and cut upwards and out the top. Be ready to move as soon as the saw cuts through on the top side as that tree is coming down. I mite even abandon the saw if pinched after the final cut.

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