Nik's Poulan Thread

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Braved the cold the other night and did a little carbon cleanup on the one owner 4200 I got recently. Had quite a bit of carbon build up inside the muffler and by the exhaust port. Scraped the inside of the muffler with a flat head screw drive and blew it all out with the air compressor. Here are a couple pics of the piston, one dark area but all looks good. Compression is right about 155 and it idles and accelerates great.

View attachment 466783
View attachment 466784

Sounds good to me Nate! 155 lbs. From what I have seen, 150-160 seems to be the norm. Might see one a little higher occasionally. Wire wheel on a drill always worked good for me cleaning up muffler parts. They are fairly easy saws to hear the transition from rich to lean when in the wood, when setting the high end. I have more trouble hearing that on saws like the 3400-4000. :dizzy:

Gregg,
 
Sounds good to me Nate! 155 lbs. From what I have seen, 150-160 seems to be the norm. Might see one a little higher occasionally. Wire wheel on a drill always worked good for me cleaning up muffler parts. They are fairly easy saws to hear the transition from rich to lean when in the wood, when setting the high end. I have more trouble hearing that on saws like the 3400-4000. :dizzy:

Gregg,

Thanks Gregg, I'm getting antsy to get out and actually put some of these saw in wood. They look nice sitting on the work bench I'd rather be out cutting! I did however use the recently acquired 3700 to cut the bottom off of our Christmas tree! Haha!
 
I understand what your saying Kevin. I'm sure the .45-70 that I wanted to get would be also. But, kinda like some chainsaws...There's no substitute for cubic inches & horsepower! :D I use a smooth bore 12 gauge with 3" mag slugs. LOL I keep my shots to pretty close range, 20-40 yds. A well placed shot to the boiler room, and the lights go out very quickly.

Gregg,
Is it true you can't use rifles in Ohio?
 
Sounds good to me Nate! 155 lbs. From what I have seen, 150-160 seems to be the norm. Might see one a little higher occasionally. Wire wheel on a drill always worked good for me cleaning up muffler parts. They are fairly easy saws to hear the transition from rich to lean when in the wood, when setting the high end. I have more trouble hearing that on saws like the 3400-4000. :dizzy:

Gregg,
Refresh my memory . Is it the 4200 or 5200 that has the governed carb?
 
Bob,
The round hole in the back is the atmospheric vent port for the oiler diaphragm. The donut sponge filter
covers it on the inside of the pump body.

I would pull the oil cover cap again, pull the oiler diaphragm back out, and then try to spin the little rod with
your fingers...If the assembly/joint is loose, that's your air leak & the leak path to that "round hole" vent on the
back side of the pump. If you pulled the pump body off the saw, then use a new 19054 gasket & remember to put sealer
(Motoseal works fine) on the tip end threads of the three mounting bolts like the factory did.

I have found several diaphragms that were loose & just needing recrimped to being air tight again. Also found some
that were completely apart and a creating major air leak. I saved a half dozen to rebuild with new diaphragm material,
but have not got around to it yet. Work & travel seems to always get in the way.

Yes, this air leak does cause an issue with idling, having to adjust the idle mixture screw.


View attachment 466718
I have diaphragm material from my Countervibes. Will have to see how the spindle is attached to figure out how to make one.
 
Is it true you can't use rifles in Ohio?

Not necked down rifles. Only straight walled.

Rifles allowed
.357 Magnum, .357 Maximum, .38 Special, .375 Super Magnum, .375 Winchester, .38-55, .41 Long Colt, .41 Magnum, .44 Special, .44 Magnum, .444 Marlin, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, .45 Long Colt, .45 Winchester Magnum, .45 Smith & Wesson, .450 Marlin, .454 Casull, .460 Smith & Wesson, .45-70, .45-90, .45-110, .475 Linebaugh, .50-70, .50-90, .50-100, .50-110, and .500 Smith & Wesson.

pistols allowed anything with 5-inch minimum length barrel, using straight-walled cartridges .357 caliber or larger.
My friend used a 10mm rock armory I think was make.
 
Refresh my memory . Is it the 4200 or 5200 that has the governed carb?

Bob, As Nate said, the 5200 had the gov. carb. I know a lot of guys block them off. I tried that, but then decided to just cheat and use the non- gov carb from a 4200 on my 5200's. LOL Same carb other wise.

Yes, Ohio just started to allow the use of straight wall rifle cartridges last year I believe. I know that must sound odd being from Texas & Vermont. :D Oh well, I guess its better than having some of the yahoo's around here firing .30-o6's and 7 mm mags, past me for a week. There are some guys that just start opening a barrage of fire on the first white flag they see, or think they see. :dizzy:

Gregg,
 
Not necked down rifles. Only straight walled.

Rifles allowed
.357 Magnum, .357 Maximum, .38 Special, .375 Super Magnum, .375 Winchester, .38-55, .41 Long Colt, .41 Magnum, .44 Special, .44 Magnum, .444 Marlin, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, .45 Long Colt, .45 Winchester Magnum, .45 Smith & Wesson, .450 Marlin, .454 Casull, .460 Smith & Wesson, .45-70, .45-90, .45-110, .475 Linebaugh, .50-70, .50-90, .50-100, .50-110, and .500 Smith & Wesson.

pistols allowed anything with 5-inch minimum length barrel, using straight-walled cartridges .357 caliber or larger.
My friend used a 10mm rock armory I think was make.
Bob, As Nate said, the 5200 had the gov. carb. I know a lot of guys block them off. I tried that, but then decided to just cheat and use the non- gov carb from a 4200 on my 5200's. LOL Same carb other wise.

Yes, Ohio just started to allow the use of straight wall rifle cartridges last year I believe. I know that must sound odd being from Texas & Vermont. :D Oh well, I guess its better than having some of the yahoo's around here firing .30-o6's and 7 mm mags, past me for a week. There are some guys that just start opening a barrage of fire on the first white flag they see, or think they see. :dizzy:

Gregg,[/QUOTE
very interesting. I assume straight walled rifles have less muzzle velocity than rifles like the 308 and 30-06, et al.
 
Bob, As Nate said, the 5200 had the gov. carb. I know a lot of guys block them off. I tried that, but then decided to just cheat and use the non- gov carb from a 4200 on my 5200's. LOL Same carb other wise.

Yes, Ohio just started to allow the use of straight wall rifle cartridges last year I believe. I know that must sound odd being from Texas & Vermont. :D Oh well, I guess its better than having some of the yahoo's around here firing .30-o6's and 7 mm mags, past me for a week. There are some guys that just start opening a barrage of fire on the first white flag they see, or think they see. :dizzy:

Gregg,

I listened to rifles all week during bow in stand before gun season. Hmmmm no 3 limits either. Sounded like they were after a ;) in the desert.

Party hearty. :cheers:

 
I believe you hit the nail on the head. I tested three of my saws and they all leaked at that hole. Must have bad diaphragms. I did notice that the two little metal spinners did move separately. You just crimp them?
Yes

That attachment method is the weak link in those little S25DA oiler diaphragms.

I try to recrimp them, but if they are totally apart I mix some JB weld up and apply it first. Used a hollow punch on the bench vise top.

I'm going to rebuild some of those today.
image.jpeg
 
That was too easy! A big thanks again to Mr. Hogg for the diaphragm material.

Punch the plunger out, and then redress both the cupped washers as it deforms them.

Take needle nose pliers and, easy now,
rotate & squeeze the expanded part of the head until it just fits back into the washer ID, and no more. You need that metal to recrimp and its's butter soft.

Cut & punch your diaphragm out.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Then I used a tap handle adjusted to the 0.120" OD round nib on the plunger end. You can't see the round nib on the end of this one, as I squeezed to much of the original in on my first try.

Went tapping around two times and locked the diaphragm right in. A custom hollow punch or even a roll pin that is 0.120" ID would have looked a hell of a lot better. I'll make one on the lathe at work.

image.jpeg
 
That was too easy! Punch the plunger out, and then redress both the cupped washers as it deforms them.

Take needle nose pliers and, easy now,
rotate & squeeze the expanded part of the head until it just fits back into the washer ID, and no more. You need that metal to recrimp and its's butter soft.

Cut & punch your diaphragm out.

View attachment 467070

View attachment 467047

Then I used a tap handle adjusted to the 0.120" OD round nib on the plunger end. You can't see the round nib on the end of this one, as I squeezed to much of the original in on my first try.

Went tapping around two times and locked the diaphragm right in. A custom hollow punch or even a roll pin that is 0.120" ID would have looked a hell of a lot better. I'll make one on the lathe at work.

View attachment 467053


I have repaired one of those before. I just used a center punch in like 3 places to peen the metal over the washer, never had another problem out of it.

I have to say the saw was pretty old and had a ton of hours on it before it finally failed. They worked well and is only a problem now since some are now 40+ years old. It would be nice if they were still available but it looks like they can be repaired and live on for quite a while longer.
 

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