Which 60cc saw

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I am a saw snob. I openly admit I would pick a chainsaw any day over a weed Wacker. I and my saws are above those weed whackers.
I gotta have mah weed whacker to clear all them grapevines, briers and brambles, so's I can use mah saw to fell them trees.
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Keep those teeth sharp, and go through 3" - 4" saplings like soft butter. No back breaking chain sawing for them.
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That bar looks long. What is it, a 24"?

Its really a 24", but Stihl calls it a 25" for whatever reason. Ain't that long though. I use a 25 on my 361s as often as I do a 20. Depends on the wood. I use skip on a 25 in Doug fir a lot and it motors through like tissue. Half the 361s that I bought used around these parts had 28" bars on them out the door from the shops. They were all beginning to bar burn from lack of oil though.
 
Ah, I was hoping to see a Bra Zillian 361 pop up with the #3 starting cereal number. I have yet to see one, even in a photo. I did come across a Brazilian 380 once. Guy brought it up from Mexico.

Ive swapped em' on every saw that had caps with no ID marks , i seem to get them on quicker with the ID marks...ive gotten really pissed at a few of those flippy caps here and there..the marks on the new ones seem to make it easier for me..sounds dumb..but true.
 
Its really a 24", but Stihl calls it a 25" for whatever reason. Ain't that long though. I use a 25 on my 361s as often as I do a 20. Depends on the wood. Half the 361s that I bought used around these parts had 28" bars on them. They were all beginning to bar burn from lack of oil though.
How well I know. 1st day with my 362, I called my Tech from the woods, and he said open the oiler wide open. I wasn't using STIHL bar oil, and that played a part in over-heating the chain and bar. I added a lil mineral spirits to my oil till I could get the stihl oil. My first batch was a lil too thin, and I had oil dripping off the top sides of the bar. I'd say it was getting plenty then.:lol:
 
Ive swapped em' on every saw that had caps with no ID marks , i seem to get them on quicker with the ID marks...ive gotten really pissed at a few of those flippy caps here and there..the marks on the new ones seem to make it easier for me..sounds dumb..but true.
There were times I felt like I was going to have fingers with the sensitivity of a safe-cracker to get those caps to seat.
 
Ive swapped em' on every saw that had caps with no ID marks , i seem to get them on quicker with the ID marks...ive gotten really pissed at a few of those flippy caps here and there..the marks on the new ones seem to make it easier for me..sounds dumb..but true.

Oh no, not dumb. I have had many a spill of a gas and oil from not seating and twisting the flippies in correctly. My 211 oil cap is like that. Must press hard and twist, or it sits unseated, and leaks like a #$U@ #$@& @$() @(${U @($)U!!!!!!!

I much prefer the old screw-in caps. Nothing to break on them. Solid, and no moving parts.
 
We have 2 of those 250s..good machines.
Yes Sir. However; I thought I ruined mine when I put that big chainsaw blade on it. Ran it half an hour, and next time I started it, it wouldn't rev. It was like the drive shaft was messed up. Trouble shooting the situation. STIHL manual never mentioned my assumption, just kept saying to check sparkplug, muffler, fuel, etc., etc. Finally, that's what I did. Muffler Screen was nearly shut off with carbon. Dropped a new plug in it for good measure, and she not only runs good, she starts a whole lot easier than before.
 
Oh no, not dumb. I have had many a spill of a gas and oil from not seating and twisting the flippies in correctly. My 211 oil cap is like that. Must press hard and twist, or it sits unseated, and leaks like a #$U@ #$@& @$() @(${U @($)U!!!!!!!

I much prefer the old screw-in caps. Nothing to break on them. Solid, and no moving parts.

Funny you say that , i just worked on a 171 (same thing as a 211 just less displacement ) and it probably took me 5 minutes to get the oil cap on and then it spilled anyway ..i got incredibly pissed off :laugh:
 

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