What chain works best for noodling hardwood

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safetyboy715

safetyboy715

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I cut firewood with a MS 362 using either a 20 or 24 inch bar. I occasionally noodle big hardwood rounds and am finding that my chains dull really quickly. I have been using full chisel or semi chisel and neither one stays sharp long. Is there a type of chain that stays sharp longer for this?
 
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With a saw that has decent power like a 362 you shouldn't have problems.

This may be a stupid question but you are actually "noodling" the rounds and not "ripping" them, correct? Ripping the rounds will dull a regular chain quickly (if the rounds are standing up you would be cutting across the grain with the bar horizontal).
 
Full Chisel

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I've never had an issue with chains dulling prematurely when noodling but I have heard others comment on that happening. I would run the shortest bar possible. Skip chain can help with noodling if you have issues with noodles plugging up your clutch cover.
 
7sleeper

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The more important question would be was the wood skidded? If yes proper cleaning is advised prior to noodling. For that I use an axt to cut away the dirty bark.

For me a sharp chain irrespective of chain type is important. Further I prefer holding the sawbody at least an inch further away from the dawg, because my chainsaw doesn't clear the noodles that well. Of course tipping the bar up or down shortens the noodle length making clearence much better. But if I had a lot of noodling to do, I would buy the dolmar 6100. Supposed to be the best noodler by far out there!

7
 
safetyboy715

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Thanks for all the advice. I typically noodle locust and red oak cutting with the grain. I too have found skip to work best but am considering using ripping chains and noodling as svk mentioned above. Any of you have a favorite brand of ripping chain? I have never used it.
 
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Thanks for all the advice. I typically noodle locust and red oak cutting with the grain. I too have found skip to work best but am considering using ripping chains and noodling as svk mentioned above. Any of you have a favorite brand of ripping chain? I have never used it.
Just to clarify. Ripping is much slower so I'd suggest noodling. I just wanted to make sure that wasn't what was dulling your chain.
 
SawTroll

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I've never had an issue with chains dulling prematurely when noodling ....

I haven't either, and (full) chisel works much better for noodling than semi-chisel does, at least in my wood.

Noodling is the least taxing cutting, for both the saw and the chain, and I don't see any need for skip chain (unless the log and the bar are unusually long for such cutting).

To avoid too long noodles, try angling the cut a bit up/down, instead of parallell to the log.
 
wde_1978

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I use Dolmar branded Oregon chisel full complement chain, on a 20" B&C setup, while noodling.
No issues whatsoever regarding the chain dulling.
As a matter of fact noodling seems to dull the chains the least unless the bark is extremely dirty.
I mostly noodle oak and beech knots.

... my chainsaw doesn't clear the noodles that well. Of course tipping the bar up or down shortens the noodle length making clearence much better. But if I had a lot of noodling to do, I would buy the dolmar 6100. Supposed to be the best noodler by far out there!...
Dolmar PS-6400/7900 (and close family I suppose) are great noodle monsters.
The PS-7900 is more fun, off course - lots of power to pull extreme noodles.

I try to keep the cut leveled to the grain, makes for the fastest noodling cuts.
The PS-6400/7900 don't have troubles handling really long noodles! ;)
 
danimal

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I dunno, my 390xp is one hell of a noodling machine! The wide clutch cover clears noodles great.
I noodle with a 390xp also. Cut a big notch in cover behind da chain to evacuate da noodles faster.
Also run jgx for how smooth it noodles, makes longer noodles than lgx so the notch in the clutch cover is necessary .
 
superwd6

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I haven't either, and (full) chisel works much better for noodling than semi-chisel does, at least in my wood.

Noodling is the least taxing cutting, for both the saw and the chain, and I don't see any need for skip chain (unless the log and the bar are unusually long for such cutting).

To avoid too long noodles, try angling the cut a bit up/down, instead of parallell to the log.

Split with chainsaw all the time . Funny how all my Stihl buddy's tell me how hard it is on the saw [emoji23][emoji23] lol.


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Cody

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I just use regular chain and have even noodled quite a bit with 40cc saws with 16inch bar. If your noodle clearence is bad just increase the distance to the trunk.

7

I noodled some dead/seasoned oak today with my 261 pulling some semi chisel, 16" bar buried. My first thought was what am I thinking here, and to my pleasant surprise I had no real issues other than the noodles piling up.
 
SawTroll

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I noodled some dead/seasoned oak today with my 261 pulling some semi chisel, 16" bar buried. My first thought was what am I thinking here, and to my pleasant surprise I had no real issues other than the noodles piling up.

The only common issue with noodling is noodles piling up under the clutch cover - and how bad the issue is varies with many factors, including (detailed) saw construction under the clutch cover, the cover itself, and the type of chain. Something simple that often helps is removing the chip deflector, or using a wide discharge clutch cover on saws where it is an option.
Cutting at a slight angle up/down instead of exactly with the grain also helps, as the noodles tend to become shorter. Modifying the clutch cover, making the discharge opening larger is another option.
 
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You do not want to use ripping chain. You're best setup is to use full comp, standard chain. Get rid of the stock chain catcher and install a set of dual dawgs with the roller chain catcher. The wider clutch cover from the wrap model should help as well. I can't explain why your chains would dull quickly. I've never expended that.
 

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