wedging over trees

[beastmaster]

I haven't had much cause to wedge over trees in my career. So its kind of new to me in practice but of course I understand the theory.
How safe and reliably is wedging? I'm talking mostly straight up and down conifers or maybe a small amount of back lean. Taking into account potential hazards (wires) if some thing didn't go as planed.
I put a line in ever tree I fell, unless its a obvious lean. One of my co workers who consistently gets high daily tree counts wedges mostly. Should I start practicing wedging or be slow and safe. Just wondering what some opinion are.

 

[Rob Biehl]

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[scheffa]

It is quite safe and common practice to wedge trees, we do it a fair bit at work, practise and knowledge will tell you how far to move a tree with wedges. Ask the boys in the forestry forum, they probably wedge more than they don't

 

[HuskStihl]

The safety and reliability of wedging depends on the strength and flexibility of the hinge (holding wood). Conifers tend to wedge nicely as the fibers tend to be pretty flexible. It would only take one tree (maybe you left too little holding wood, maybe that tree had internal defects, or maybe you tried to overcome too much gravity) to get you in trouble. Just depends on what is around to get hit if things go wrong.

 

[ATH]

Tall and straight is good! Shorter trees are a little harder because it takes more lift to move the center of gravity past the tipping point. I wouldn't be excited about pushing over a heavy back lean away from a power line, but it is impressive how much back lean can be moved if you have the patience. Know several loggers who wedge most trees...some to go against the natural tendency other times the wedge is just cheap "insurance".

 

[omertalogic]

other times the wedge is just cheap "insurance".

When our crews drop stubs in the right of ways, wedges are generally used when the feller has made the smallest hinge possible, and can't push it over. Basically it's your safety backup if the ****er refuses to fold. Honestly, nobody I work with has bend brazen enough to say 'look here, I'm going to go against the lean by way of these wedges'. They usually just make their notch peripheral to the lean.

I guess it could be done. If it's monster stub that can hit primaries or someone's property, I reckon a 5:1 or 3:1 would be a better bet.


edit: basically, the ethos with my crew is if you're pulling out the wedges, you've already ****ed up.

 

[treebilly]

If say with a deep notch and stacked wedges 7-10 degrees is safe on conifers. I too set a line most of the time, but I don't worry about numbers. Some days I'll clear cut an acre, other days I might get the brush off one tree. I get paid to get the job done safely with minimal impact

 

[BC WetCoast]

West Coast loggers fall thousands of trees (confers) yearly only using wedges.

 

[crotchclimber]

The safety and reliability of wedging depends on the strength and flexibility of the hinge (holding wood). Conifers tend to wedge nicely as the fibers tend to be pretty flexible. It would only take one tree (maybe you left too little holding wood, maybe that tree had internal defects, or maybe you tried to overcome too much gravity) to get you in trouble. Just depends on what is around to get hit if things go wrong.

Exactly my thoughts on wedges. It's very situation dependent. On Friday I pounded in some wedges on a 20'x20"diameter spruce stick but decided to opt for connecting the truck to it because it had enough back lean to make me worry the three of us couldn't pull it over. If it went back the neighbor's house was going to get crushed. I'd say we put tag lines in all trees that have a back lean since it usually doesn't take long to get on in and it's cheap insurance. I use wedges primarily to prevent the saw getting stuck prior to pulling over the tree. Of the hundreds of trees I've felled I think I've only wedged over a few.

 

[omertalogic]

West Coast loggers fall thousands of trees (confers) yearly only using wedges.

Yea in that context I can absolutely see the merits of using wedges. I guess it's pretty context dependent. A logging operation isn't next to a priceless deck or low slung powerlines usually.

 

[ATH]

But they still put the tree where it needs to go. Down in the right direction is down in the right direction regardless of what is behind. Some just cause more excitement than others.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Exactly my thoughts on wedges. It's very situation dependent. On Friday I pounded in some wedges on a 20'x20"diameter spruce stick but decided to opt for connecting the truck to it because it had enough back lean to make me worry the three of us couldn't pull it over. If it went back the neighbor's house was going to get crushed. I'd say we put tag lines in all trees that have a back lean since it usually doesn't take long to get on in and it's cheap insurance. I use wedges primarily to prevent the saw getting stuck prior to pulling over the tree. Of the hundreds of trees I've felled I think I've only wedged over a few.

a 20" peg, 20' tall is going to crush the neighbour's house. Did the 3 little pigs make it out of straw?

It would take some serious wedging to get the Centre of gravity of a 20' back leaning peg over the tipping point. Especially if you made a shallow notch.

 

[hseII]

a 20" peg, 20' tall is going to crush the neighbour's house. Did the 3 little pigs make it out of straw?

It would take some serious wedging to get the Centre of gravity of a 20' back leaning peg over the tipping point. Especially if you made a shallow notch.

I Believe our Elder says " Steep & Deep."

Thank You.

 

[Philbert]

Since you are interested, why not practice now, even when you don't 'need' to, so that you get the feel of what they (and you) can do? Then you will have a better idea when you need to.

I don't fall a lot of trees, but almost always use wedges, to prevent pinched saws, and to practice.

Philbert

 

[hseII]

Since you are interested, why not practice now, even when you don't 'need' to, so that you get the feel of what they (and you) can do? Then you will have a better idea when you need to.

I don't fall a lot of trees, but almost always use wedges, to prevent pinched saws, and to practice.

Philbert

Great Post.

 

[AT sawyer]

I've seen plastic wedges spit out of back-leaning trees and once that happens, the back cut can close and you're generally F'd. Metal wedges can take the hit and not compress like plastic, but you've got to be careful not to pound them into your saw.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Anybody have that old GOL PDF? It actually had a good section on wedging, and how to calculate the amount of back lean a 1" wedge can overcome.

 

[Woos31]

You'd be surprised what a couple little plastic wedges can lift. I was taught that you do it right in the face and wedges because there weren't a back up of tying line in it then givin er. If roping it anyway why waste yer energy wedging? Not being a d*ck I just don't know, I've never had that option so I'm just curious here. That or I set it up and pile drive it with another tree (understanding some situation that isn't possible just something I've used when applicable) or Jack it. On the 20' stem 20" through leaning back I would've back cut first, buried some wedges, then cut the face out (again I wasn't there and don't know situation, just another option with wedges to save climbing time) and tickle the face of the hinge till it goes or if there's room for the saw continue the back cut. Like I say I wasn't there to see your job so I'm not flingin stones at all sir just of the wedge yer way out training vs rope it out

 

[HuskStihl]

Great Post.

You spelled poast wrong, dumbass.

 

[HuskStihl]

If roping it anyway why waste yer energy wedging?

Ropes break.