Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Am just a back yard hack sir ,but when given good advise i suck it in .
Barber chair
- Thread starter hanniedog
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I feel like I fell of the wagon. Quite the amount of stuff I haven't read yet...
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I gotta say those cuts make a lot of sense to me and I'm going to give them a try. The triangular one seems like it would be easier for a "Dutchman" like me to align!
Nope. Just a strip of holding wood through the center of the bole lined up in the direction of fall.
Yep, looks nuts, but I've never had it fail.
Jerry B talks about maybe needing a wedge in one side to counteract side lean, but that just says to me that you mis-judged the favor of the tree.
If I was looking at these cuts on paper (screen) and had no experience with them, I'd definitely choose either the T or the pyramidal scheme that TRX250 shows in post #499. They do look better in form than Beranek's, the one I posted. But I learned his first, and it works for me. Three cuts rather than the four required in placing a face. More efficient and less time at the stump.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I like the ease of lining the triangle up over the T also.
Here is some of Brian's triangle work for interst. Nicely done and you don't need anymore. People, this is on an Alder tree that grows 3ft a season in its first 20 years. They have very wide grow rings.
It lives in a rain forest and they are firecrackers, widow makers, they call them. As the tree grows the outer part becomes the inside (the heart wood)
The Hart wood is the hardest and is brittle, generally in most species.
This being the principal; the sapwood is the strongest wood and WILL cause the barberchairing. If it workes on species such as Alder that grow so fast with a wide grow ring heart...then it will work.
So the heart on some of these fast growing species are wide grained and still young but it still works.
Now I got that BS out of the way;
Let's cretique Brian's work.
Looks awesome! My only concern as a guy that fells that species from time to time is, I'm wondering if you are not free handing the backcut? and not putting your dogs in the corner of mouth? (high side) Or maybe your are just not that sharp? Anyway I don't want to pick on your mental capacity. .j/k ..now we are even.
Brother! From a home boy to a home boy across the border.Awsome stuff (pro tip time bro) position yourself, high side between the back and the mouth of the undercut. Reach back and stick your dogs in high side mouth, cut half your triangle. Swap hands and dog in the triangle point ..(middle of the back) and finish your triangle. and set your dogs at the "finish position" corner of mouth (always high side) and pull evenly.
Lay that **** out
...it takes a few seconds.
You can cut the back side blind. Feet don't move.
That one's for your Birthday ..well we all have B- days?
I am never worried about
getting hurt but I do take it personally when it splits 5 ft up and they want multiples of 8s and 10s
You know what I'm talking about.
It's not a race between it barberchairing up its a race between a split. Running a fine line.
95% of falling on the west coast, I ring the sapwood, just in case there is something you don't know about
*EDIT I fix half my Dam mistakes...now I need a nap
BTW Brian, that is a flow transition ^^^
You don't move your feet and your chain doesn't stop moving. 1, 2 and back to 1
You don't move your feet and your chain doesn't stop moving. 1, 2 and back to 1
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Man, is that Latin or some other language I don't know? lol.
This is not a pro thread but there is pro advice, nothing needs to be done in a timely fashion. 'You' are a long time dead.
Less cuts for a faster time? There are better ways....why not put an undercut In and keep your holding wood?
I think most people promote saftey,
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
Same Hear.
With the triangle Coots Bay, I see the potential of the holding wood splitting before the "normal" 10% of the dia. is reached: that was why I mentioned adding the bore cut to set the hinge.
The original context was in discussing a back leaner, but the same logic,( or ignorance), applies here.
I want a solid hinge that is not heavy or light on either side of the stump, but acceptable for what's needed on that tree. My concern is,( because I've had learners go before I wanted them to), that the back cut will get to a certain point, the hinge gives due to the above pressure, & the hinge will be insufficient for the intended lay.
kanuckiestainian?
Some times I do a modified T type cut where I cut one side of the T's backcut (down hill side if is got side lean) and pound a wedge in, then cut the other side of the T and leave only about an inch of wood between the two back cuts, sometimes less. It helps on smaller trees where you want a wedge and don't have much room.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
All freehand cuts good eye ,i was using the tip of my 32 inch bar for the alder cuts ,on fir i use the dogs ,a few of those alders leaked water all over my saw ,hollow inside ,usef the end of the bar to keep me as far from the tree as possible in case the back blew out ,chain was sharp ,was full skip .404 , i cut part throttle when freehand ,that may make the cuts look rough.the hollow ones broke when hit the ground.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
What's up with the massive dutchman? Just kidding.
Don't be cutting down trees just for the sake of cutting them down. We gotta get our fresh air from somewhere.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
How does your 285 compare to a 288/390?
I had a chance to buy a complete non-runner back in the summer & passed.
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