Huztl MS660

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That is a good question. I had to file a paypal dispute to get them motivated. They provided all of the parts I requested including another carb, but no heat tape. I think thats the only thing they don't have.

They also gave me a partial credit for a couple things that popped up after they shipped the parts.

Forgive my ignorance, where would this heat tape be placed?


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Forgive my ignorance, where would this heat tape be placed?


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Underneath the muffler, on top of the case.

Not sure what all the fuss is about over the foil/heat tape. As Brad Snelling has mentioned, Ace Hardware carries 3M foil tape by to roll with their HVAC stuff. Get a roll - use an Exacto knife - and you're done. That's what I did on my 066 and 044 kits. Works fine.
 
Yeah, it is no bg deal to just use aluminum duct tape. It is just that it is part of the saw, and not included with the "complete parts" kit. I guess sorta a matter of principle, but one that they are winning, it really is no big deal.

As far as the missing parts, you could buy them on ebay or locally or you can bug huztl and they will ship them to you. But you then have to wait for shipping from China.
 
seems my clutch drum is out of round, I don't have the tools to measure it, but it wants to turn the cylinder when i turn the sprocket, i am waiting on some missing items to be able to run it
 
seems my clutch drum is out of round, I don't have the tools to measure it, but it wants to turn the cylinder when i turn the sprocket, i am waiting on some missing items to be able to run it
Will the drum slip on and spin freely on the bearing if you turn the drum around? There have been several under spec bearing race ID's on drums that forum members have received lately. Also make sure the three clutch shoes are seated in the idle position with no burrs, flashing or foreign material keeping them from fully seating inward.
 
Will the drum slip on and spin freely on the bearing if you turn the drum around? There have been several under spec bearing race ID's on drums that forum members have received lately. Also make sure the three clutch shoes are seated in the idle position with no burrs, flashing or foreign material keeping them from fully seating inward.

My clutch bearing was a bad one too and was causing similar symptoms. Picking up an oem tomorrow which I'm hoping sorts it.

On a more positive note my replacement p/c arrived today (only took 8 days :)). Also the "missing" m5 oil pump screws and woodruff key showed up :innocent:. After finishing the puzzle a little while ago the final tally of missing bits was actually only two nuts for the dogs, two nuts for the carb, the two m6 x 20 muffler screws (supplied m5 x 20 instead), the summer / winter slide and heat reflective tape.

If all goes to plan it'll get its first run tomorrow evening fingers crossed...
 
Thats interesting I got 2nd 660 around same time as you and they sent the m5 screws instead of the m6 as well. And those screws for the muffler are packaged together. So it seems to be whoever is packaging the small bags that day or days is making the mistakes. Maybe the employees rotate jobs.


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Thats interesting I got 2nd 660 around same time as you and they sent the m5 screws instead of the m6 as well. And those screws for the muffler are packaged together. So it seems to be whoever is packaging the small bags that day or days is making the mistakes. Maybe the employees rotate jobs.


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Me too - M5 instead of M6.
 
Yeah I went to my hard ware store picked up some M6 Phillips head bolts along with more m5 nuts. Ordered the right bolts cause god forbid I have two bolts that are not The same as the restLol


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It turns out the clutch bearing was not at fault in my case after all as the oem bearing didn't improve things - the drum was still too tight on the bearing / shaft. An oem drum would have been the easiest, quickest option but I chose to lap / polish the bore of the supplied drum with a very simple turned wooden mandrel wrapped in wet & dry. It was a slow process making sure not to enlarge the bore any more than necessary but I'm happy to report it worked great leaving a finish far better than any oem drum I've seen.

With the M6 muffler bolts added it was time to see if it would start. I was expecting a wrestling match but it popped on 4th pull with choke and fired next pull on hi idle - no carb adjustments needed to have it run rich where it will remain for the first few tanks.

So far I'm certainly very impressed by how well it runs just as a stock saw. So much so that the plan to improve the squish and spend time polishing the ports etc having confirmed its a runner, have for now, been shelved - to be revisited when I have more free time.
 
Turns out I celebrated too soon. My intake boot was damaged and incomplete moulded so I'll need to get an oem one.

Has anyone else skipped the cylinder gasket and bolted directly to crank case? I have a hyway big bore and it has zero free port even when bolted on like that. The compression is so much that you absolutely could not start it with a plugged decomp valve.


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Many are using 3 bond 1184/1194 or similar on crank and cylinder. Let it dry a little and good to go. Obviously check you squish.


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Turns out I celebrated too soon. My intake boot was damaged and incomplete moulded so I'll need to get an oem one.

Has anyone else skipped the cylinder gasket and bolted directly to crank case? I have a hyway big bore and it has zero free port even when bolted on like that. The compression is so much that you absolutely could not start it with a plugged decomp valve.


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I went with 1184 only for .020" squish.
 

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