Cylinder condition and ball hone or not ?

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Hone not hone

  • Total voters
    22
Your washers are bending. I would want some thicker, then put tension on the puller and tap it with a hammer. Trying to remove this by torque alone, could damage the threads. I use a combination of torque and shock or possibly heat. Too much of either can be bad.
 
I'm to far from you to help out. I concur, that tighten up the puller with pressure on it and give a good tap, should pop right off. I use a 2 hole steering wheel puller.
 
I’m ashamed to tell it but the nut was still on shaft . Yes I’ve done worse so once i removed nut popped right off. To make it sound less stupid - i left nut on earlier with other puller as to not mess threads up. Anyhow it’s off and I’m gonna give good cleaning and make sure i keep stuff out of crankcase. Fellas i believe hlsupply forgot about me. I even emailed them with no response. Maybe they still on holiday or something. Next will be replace seals. Do you run a screw in old ones and pull out and use right size socket to place ? Also what brand of seal is best ? I have a little pack i bought as a kit says made in China then i have another kit that were all loose and has skf bearings with kit but I’m not above ordering seals from wherever recommended. Also the connecting rod barring at crankshaft - how do you replace it. Does pin push out ?
 
You Sir, must be a stand up person to admit that on this forum. ;) Just ordered from hlsupply about a week ago, they usually ship items right out. Received my order in 3 days, on the saw and out to owner. Gasket set and av mount. I would give them a call tomorrow, always been willing to help me. Good luck with your build!
 
Scott chandler said:
I’m ashamed to tell it but the nut was still on shaft . Yes I’ve done worse so once i removed nut popped right off. To make it sound less stupid - i left nut on earlier with other puller as to not mess threads up. Anyhow it’s off and I’m gonna give good cleaning and make sure i keep stuff out of crankcase. Fellas i believe hlsupply forgot about me. I even emailed them with no response. Maybe they still on holiday or something. Next will be replace seals. Do you run a screw in old ones and pull out and use right size socket to place ? Also what brand of seal is best ? I have a little pack i bought as a kit says made in China then i have another kit that were all loose and has skf bearings with kit but I’m not above ordering seals from wherever recommended. Also the connecting rod barring at crankshaft - how do you replace it. Does pin push out ?
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Be careful removing that seal under the flywheel. It's very easy to damage the surface inside the case. Also, carefully measure the depth of the factory seal. The one you put back in should be at the same depth. Too shallow, and it may interfere with the flywheel, too deep and may interfere with the bearing. The factory seal installation tool has a lip that positions the seal at the correct place. I have one for a 288 and 61/272 series. Don't know if they will work on your saw, but that's nothing a little research can't solve.
As for the crankpin bearing, your's is probably fine and it's not serviced separately, the crank must be replaced.
Did HL Supply not give you a tracking number? They are usually the fastest place I know of to deliver. Call them in the AM.
 
It gives tracking but it’s like the post office doesn’t have it yet or like label has been created just not sent. Sleepy do you log for a living or how do you know so much about saws. I’m just curious and i have had auto mechanics all through school and worked on everything i have owned but not so much on saws. It’s kind of the fun part to grab something i know little about and learn as i go but at one point it can get expensive if i do something stupid. This installation tool is it expensive and anybody sell them here That you know of ?
 
Me a logger, not hardly but I do like chainsaws, especially orange ones from Sweden. After workin on stuff for more years than I care to remember, I'm retired now, and just work on what I want to.
I don't know very much about saws at all, just sharing some things I've picked up on with the ones I've rebuilt.
You were asking about removing the crank seal and after it's removed, this measurement is lost. I've never looked inside a 394. Is the seal flush with the case or is it pressed in some?
You do not have to have the factory tool, but you do need to know the installed depth of the seal in your saw now, so the new one can be put back close to the same spot. Here is a PDF of their service tools.
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2000_AAaa/HUSI2000_AAaa_I0000081_.pdf
According to this, they offer a tool just for installing this seal on a 288/294 which I do not have, but I do have a 288 bearing install tool which has the seal install tool made on it. Without having everything in front of me I can't say for sure it will work but from what I gather from the PDF, it just might.
 
Here is a simple method that has worked for me. Find washers with ID close to OD of flywheel and clutch side crank shafts. Washers have an OD larger than seal OD. Set with deep socket or pipe. Washer will only allow to flush set seal. Apply small amount of Motoseal or similar to outer seal rim, so there is no small leak.
 
It is pressed in maybe 1/4 “ or maybe less. It’s really hard to take a good picture but here it is and i can use it for reference after i go back with stuff. It looks like the seal stops just past where the crank stops increasing in size. And another problem. I don’t think a socket will work. Well maybe deep well if nut is off shaft
 

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Deep well or small piece of pipe. Washer lets you set seal flush and straight. Let me know your method. Always willing to learn. Yes remove the nut.
 
Yep. I believe there is a step made onto your flywheel that sits back in that recess and if the seal is located too far out, the flywheel will rub it. If you can put the new seal back where this one is at, you'll be fine.
The clutch side is a piece of cake.
 
I did use oil. Thing said 30 weight I just used some 10-30 synthetic oil i put in vehicles. The dust wasn’t dust but wet leftovers. Bad choice of words. What is motoseal and while im thinking about it- do you grease or lube bearings up with something special before putting all back and cylinder do you coat it maybe with something ?
 
Scott chandler said:
I did use oil. Thing said 30 weight I just used some 10-30 synthetic oil i put in vehicles. The dust wasn’t dust but wet leftovers. Bad choice of words. What is motoseal and while im thinking about it- do you grease or lube bearings up with something special before putting all back and cylinder do you coat it maybe with something ?
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Motoseal is fuel resistant gasket maker. Just what I use, there are others. No grease needed, coat mine with 2 stroke oil. Coat cylinder, bottom crank bearing and wrist pin bearing. Smokes a little at start up.
 
Just had sick feeling in my stomach !! I pulled Oiler off and this is what i see. Those little balls i thought were bearings like big crank bearing balls but I’m thinking how in world did they get there. Well it’s nothing but balls of oil and dust. Anybody ever seen this ? Fellas does the sight have option of sending a private message or “pm” without bothering anybody else or making a post ? And also if i wanted to replace oil pickup tube do i just pull it out and replace ?
 

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blsnelling said:
And a cheap correct style puller will work much more safely with no chance of damaging the flywheel.
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He already removed the flywheel after removing nut. The cheap puller I have has never ruined one. People can make tools that work as well or better than others.
 

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