I don't think they want people adjusting the carburetors. They want you to use the saw as is and when it tears up they want you to come to them for repairs or a new saw..I did see that pic thanks. Mine is a left over new 2012, that I got a good deal on with 2 year warranty, but now I'm concerned about adjusting. It doesn't have the epoxy, but does have black caps.
I will be cutting at under 1600 elevation up to some high elevations when I go help my kid in BC, and know this thing will need adjustment. I bought in Edmonton 2200 ft. It appears that I would have to pull the caps to adjust, which may void warranty I think, and I don't know if the screws underneath are even flat head or that D tool only for the service guy thing.
A bit of a sh-t show if you ask me, but maybe it's not an issue. Does anyone have any thoughts, on how I can make this saw run right under varying circumstances?
Not all saws are auto adjust, what are people supposed to do just run them from too rich and extra lean, and hope for the best?
Unfortunately...I don't think they want people adjusting the carburetors. They want you to use the saw as is and when it tears up they want you to come to them for repairs or a new saw..
No. But everyone has a different opinion on how a saw should run.It can not be, one elevation, one air density, one humidity, fits all,,,,,,, can it?
Yup, agree. That's why I usually run a little rich.I understand what you are saying C U, but saying that, and even with different opinions, no one wants to run them so that the saw would be knowingly harmed.
Not sure exactly the year but the epoxy thing was on a 5105 in my case, which is a later model saw if I remember right. The 510 and 5100s that I've owned were adjustable..Since this thread is about dolmar carb adjust, here is one more question for those that know. When (what year) did they change from a normal adjustment screw to this D thing?
You can buy the double D screwdrivers on ebay. You can remove the carb and heat the epoxy with a heat gun or torch(get the gas out first) and pick the goo out. I wouldn't recommend a dealer, unless you have a good dealer.I could be wrong, but I read it was 2012 that had epoxy. I was kind of hoping mine might be pre epoxy 2012, and didn't require a dealer, with the D tool to adjust. It has black caps.
I was hoping someone might have adjustment answers, before I go back to the dealer and talk about a solution. These guys are not the most liked around here but not the worst either, and did have a very good deal on 5105s, with heat, and I know they are a good saw. I just don't want to leave it in the back of the truck, when I'm not in the pre-tuned elevation sweet spot.
Not an easy job, as I stated earlier that epoxy is kinda heat resistant and requires a bit of picking to get it out and the shield removed..You can buy the double D screwdrivers on ebay. You can remove the carb and heat the epoxy with a heat gun or torch(get the gas out first) and pick the goo out. I wouldn't recommend a dealer, unless you have a good dealer.
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