Chain cutting to the left

[The Singing Arborist]

Hand sharpening seems to be an art I just can't get down. I've watched all the youtube vids and read a bunch of threads...still not getting results I like. So I purchased a granberg grind 'n joint to sharpen my chains and it has taken care of that.

The trouble is for the chains I was learning on. They all cut to the left. I'm sure that means I am filing the cutters harder on one side.

The question: how do I fix these chains? Do I need to file down the left or right cutters? Then which side rakers do I lower? Thanks in advance for your responses.

 

[cstair2000]

Put the bar on its edge on a smooth level surface use both edges. If it won't stand its worn, Try filing the edges even.


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[The Singing Arborist]

With other, correctly sharpened chains, the bars cut straight. This an issue with 3 different chainsaws of different bar lengths and chain sizes. I have straight cutting chains for these saws. I just want to fix the other chains to add them back into the collection

 

[Rick Stephens]

Yes to refiling down to completely even. If you really want to save your chains, then use a caliper and make every tooth the same length. Afterwards use a gauge to set all the rakers the same. And I agree with cstair2000 on making sure the bar is square.

It can take more work to correct a chain than a chain is worth. My way of measuring that is if a chain costs $22, I am willing to spend about 30 minutes max fixing it, longer than that makes more sense to replace it, OR, take to a decent saw shop and have them grind it for me. Used to be I'd do that if my hand file job seems to be wandering a bit and the teeth were different. More years under my belt hand filing has made it where I'm pretty good through most of the life of a chain. Also my local saw shops don't grind square cut teeth, so it was either do them always by hand or let them get ground to round. I like bucking and limbing chain to be something like Oregon LGX with round grind, but my falling saw always has square cut. So I end up replacing a chain if I get it too screwed up.

When you file, watch carefully how much you undercut the cutter. Getting the gullet even is just as important as getting the cutters all the same length. Since your using a grinder, you can easily under or over do that.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Cutters can be completely different lengths and still cut straight as no problem IMHO It's the depth gauge that's Important use a husky style gauge that sets them individually for each tooth. Jump on you tube buckin billy has proved it more than once. The gauges that sit on a bunch of cutters are useless.

 

[HarleyT]

Pics!!

 

[square1]

Cutters can be completely different lengths and still cut straight as no problem IMHO It's the depth gauge that's Important use a husky style gauge that sets them individually for each tooth. Jump on you tube buckin billy has proved it more than once. The gauges that sit on a bunch of cutters are useless.

Absolutely! I have never had a machine sharpened chain in...well...forever except when new. Cutters are never even. Never had a chain related issue cause cutting to the left or right.

 

[rogue60]

Generally speaking if a chain gets to the point of it wants to cut left or right throw it in the bin dress the bar and put a new chain on.
Sure you can do a few thing's to MAKE it cut straight again but in reality the chain most likely has warn down the tie straps on one side already if you have persevered with it for even a few min in a cut if it's really pulling left or right and will be fighting to cut straight again even after the so called fix and wearing other important things like the bar.
The trick is to learn how not to get a chain in this bad of a shape to start with sure this takes time but you will get it one day hang in there only you can tell how well your saw cuts by feel..
oh and yeah don't even pretend a chainsaw will be ok cutting dirt even the tiniest bit of dusty sandy dirt on a log you have mostly cleaned off with a brush of your hand will still waist a chains cutting edge.
And don't listen to the clowns that state they cut 3 days 30 logs bucking firewood and there chain is still sharp all they are really saying is they don't even know what a sharp chainsaw chain is.

 

[HarleyT]

Most folks file the chisel at a different angle when they switch over to the other side.

But any "discussion" here is silly without pics.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

The raker gauge on the husky roller guide will most likely get you cutting straight. The cutters don't have to be the same height/length, the raker needs to be set to it's cutter. I forget if it's called a progressive? raker gauge but the gauge needs to work off of 1 cutter at a time. Not the kind that sit on top of 2 cutters at a time. Crazy to try to keep each tooth the same. Chains last longer too when you just file/grind each tooth till it's sharp. Rather then making each tooth the same size.

 

[old CB]

It's true that the length of cutters can vary some. BUT what generally causes the chain to cut to one side is that all or most of the cutters on one side are longer that those on the other side. Because when we file, we tend to file a little more aggressively on one side vs. the other.

Examine your chain closely and look for a general difference between the right and left cutters. If you have a caliper or something similar you will likely find either the left or right cutters are a shade longer. If so, file maybe 3 strokes on the one side and 7 strokes on the other to equalize the cutter length from one side to the other. I used to keep a cheap caliper for this purpose, but now can maintain a chain by eye.

Also, as was said above, when the teeth have been filed pretty short, it's not worth my time to fuss with them any longer. Another loop of chain for under $20 is worth way more than trying to good performance out of way-shortened cutters.

 

[old CB]

Also, I depended on the Granberg tool for years, then finally transferred what the file 'n joint was doing to hand filing. But a few years ago a saw shop guy recommended the Stihl 2-in-1 outfit, and I use that exclusively. I keep one for my 3/8 chains and another for .325 chains. That is a good tool, worth every bit of its cost.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

I have chains with one side down to the guide line and the other cutters almost new which cut straight as can be. Use one of these depth gauges and never have to match right/left cutters again. When you use these raker gauges each tooth takes the same amount of wood no matter the size of the tooth. My neighbor used to use a caliper to match cutters and take a half hour to sharpen a chain. He finally saw the light last weekend when he saw it don't matter when you use a raker gauge like in the link.

https://www.baileysonline.com/husqv...SBHRdoiDIpEI22309Nce-3-r4NYyvlBQaAo3gEALw_wcB

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

It's true that the length of cutters can vary some. BUT what generally causes the chain to cut to one side is that all or most of the cutters on one side are longer that those on the other side. Because when we file, we tend to file a little more aggressively on one side vs. the other.

Examine your chain closely and look for a general difference between the right and left cutters. If you have a caliper or something similar you will likely find either the left or right cutters are a shade longer. If so, file maybe 3 strokes on the one side and 7 strokes on the other to equalize the cutter length from one side to the other. I used to keep a cheap caliper for this purpose, but now can maintain a chain by eye.

Also, as was said above, when the teeth have been filed pretty short, it's not worth my time to fuss with them any longer. Another loop of chain for under $20 is worth way more than trying to good performance out of way-shortened cutters.

Why throw out good chain. They cut the very best the ever will when the cutters are almost gone. There's a heap of room for chips and they just fly through the wood I love a chain like that.

Counting strokes is silly IMHO just file till sharp if you end up with a few long cutters just be a little heavy on them but not really needed as they pull themselves into the wood so it all goes back to the depth gauge/raker height. Watch the burr on the top plate as it appears that's it done so get the burr on every cutter and they all get the same amount off.

Even top plate angles that vary still cut straight. It may bite the wood easyer or what ever each cutter but still can only bite till its stopped by the raker.

Rakers people takers. Depth gauge what ever you call it all my chain woes were gone the day I bought a husky style gauge. Throw those stihl things away honestly also stihl will tell you the cutters need to be the same length too don't listen they want your money so you go file away your chain and get a new loop faster

 

[The Singing Arborist]

Thanks for the coaching guys. I will have to get one of those single cutter depth gauge tools and report back if that fixed it. Might take a week or two though.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Thanks for the coaching guys. I will have to get one of those single cutter depth gauge tools and report back if that fixed it. Might take a week or two though.

There cheap as chips like 5 bux. All you need is enough hook a close enoughish top plate angle, sharp and the raker the right height relative to each cutter. And file heaps every tank have a go the more you do it the better you get

 

[HarleyT]

Why can't you put up a few pics?
How can anyone give any worthwhile advice without knowing what you are talking about?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'll get some more when I get the chance

 

[HarleyT]

I was talking to the O.P.......

 

[HarleyT]

It is hard to tell someone why his chain is pulling to one side without looking at "his" chain.